I have had success with a custom project for mags using the MAC 33 series solenoid (also known as the Lucky Solenoid)
I would look at those before you jump to the MAC 43/44 series. You are going to need a capacitor in that schematic if you use the 43/44 series. Something like a 470uF 16v. I have a few hundred if you need 1.
If you choose to mill your own hammer, use a 1/4" end mill and just make a slot in the top .150 deep and .725 long starting at the front of the hammer.
Autococker solenoid manifold thread size for barbs:
I don't have one in front of me but it would appear that eclipse used something small like a m1.6x.35 metric thread. The good news for you is that you can likely retap it with something like an m2x.4 or 2-56 if you have enough room for the screw. I can take some measurements on one of mine but this is what I'm thinking right now(currently at work).
Low-pressure 1/8" hose
$0.99 per foot
Color:
This hose has an outside/inside diameter of 0.125"/0.063". Hose of this size is suitable for most markers that use standard 1/8" tubing, including the following: Ions, Impulses, Intimidators, Autocockers, Cyborgs, and many others.
Specifications: 1/8" hose is made from 85 durometer polyurethane, with a rated burst pressure of 500-psi (at 70ºF).
Low-pressure 5/32" (4mm) hose
$0.99 per foot
Color:
This hose has an outside/inside diameter of 4-mm/2.5-mm. This hose is most commonly used on Ion solenoid head barbs, but can also be used for custom projects where the smaller 1/8" hose won't provide enough air volume.
Specifications: 1/8" hose is made from 95 durometer polyurethane, with a rated burst pressure of 600-psi (at 70ºF).
Basically I try to make sure the balls are all catching in the barrel I use, but I like to be able to get them down the barrel with just lung power - it's about an .003 underbore in most cases.
We're doing our best on DM12 and DM13, got lots of cool stuff coming. Really appreciate the kind words.
when we posted the .003-.007 underbore numbers we post are .003-.007 smaller than the blow test. That means you find the ball that sticks in the sizer so that it's difficult to blow through. Then move down .003-.005 from there.
From memory, The frame screw is 5.175 from the rear of the gun. The rear frame screw is .2" from the back.
I don't have the specs for blazers ,pyre ,cocker ,sheridan, stroker, PGP ,pmi ,automag at this location. But any one of those frames have the same bolt spacing.
Any of of the PGP spaced frames need a 1/2" tab on the front to accommodate the front frame screw or a rail adapter.
Thanks Craig.
So Typhoon mounting holes are further apart.
Vary the seal material with your operating pressure and gas.
Some delrin is pretty stiff, so it doesn't seal well with low pressures (say around 250 and lower) and light springs. Urethane o-rings seal well at low pressures, but can get beat at higher pressures unless "captured" in the seat and running air only. Captured seals weigh more and have to be precise, whereas a solid seat can be polished easily.
Pick a couple of valve designs around where you want to operate and see what material and springs they use. Also pay attention to the shape and diameter of the port opening and the amount of actual sealing surface.
Don't forget that hard materials like to "break in." Polish your seat and the seal at the start. If it leaks a little, try running the pressure up (without blowing other seals). If that makes it quit, leave it pressured up for a day or so and then try to lower the pressure again. If not, clean it and try again before you give up on that one.
Sometimes a stiffer valve spring will push the poppet tighter and at the same time require you to increase supply pressure, which also helps the seal.
