WDP Angel

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Only FAQ you'll need:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=4056082

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

A1 tuning:

The end cap does not adjust the LPR. You adjust the pressure by either adding or removing shims to the spring stack. To set your LPR pressure, you should first set your HPR pressure (you will need the HPR gauge too, which attaches to the gun in place of the volume chamber maintenance plug). If you are running stock A1 internals, set your HPR to 270 psi. If you are running Magno internals or newer, set your HPR to 180 psi. Then set your LPR to 57 psi.

Most times bolt stick is actually caused by the breech seal. The adhesive swells, pushing the rotobreech upwards and causing the bolt to stick due to the friction. Removing the breech seal, scraping out the old adhesive pad, and reinstalling the seal with a small dab of super glue will usually remedy the problem. If not, post back and we can help you diagnose from there.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php? ... st80211735


Guide to replace D-lite magnet:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=4067042


Adjusting the bolt depth into breech:

Here is a trick that you could use that you may retain the ability to open/close the breech.

Take a ram body or Tank o-ring (Black rubber preferably)

Remove your backplate.

Place the ram body or Tank o-ring, and put it behind the ram, around the breech knob.

Place your backplate back on, and screw until the backplate is flush. It should feel pretty tight as you press the backplate against the o-ring when you are screwing it in.

This pushes the ram forward against the retaining pin, and helps to keep the proper bolt/breech alignment.

I have done this on every g7/A1 series angel without issue.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3973206

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php? ... highlight=

comparasion of a1 stock ram and new rams
anyone has pics of the rams kits from all angles?

is there any older thread?

the reason is that I got an angel on a trade and I love to mod every marker I get in my hands
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An easy way to tell is by just looking at the color of the ram body. Gold is old (original), red is older (Magno), blue is newest (STR).

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

How to make rebuildable ram:
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/wdp/ ... 1-ram.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Angel A1 psi's:

With all the updates(Booster bolt, Magno valve, D-lite valve stem, Magno ram hammer) and proper paint-barrel match a healthy Fly/SB should shoot money at 180psi HPR, 55-60psi LPR, and dwell at 5.5ms. That's where I set all mine before heading to the field. Many times no adjustments are needed at the chrono.

wow. That's the updates I have but with a booster bolt 2. I will try setting it to that LPR pressure and see what I get. What kind of efficiency do you get and is their really any difference in smoothness?

Also, would the marker tend to shoot slower if the LPR is set that low (42psi)?

Never worry about efficiency since my field does all day air. Better than my spoolies that for darn sure! lol! I target the LPR at 57psi, right in the middle of that range. But I'll accept it anywhere between 55-60psi. Any higher or lower and I start changing shims. I find that many A1 LPR's change over time so I check the LPR pretty often. Also with the fragile A1 rams you really don't want a high LPR, it beats them to death!

Lower LPR would technically lower ROF but in today's environment who cares. Not many fields that are going to let you chew up newbs at 30bps and all competition is limited to much much lower ROF.

I usually set the LPR at minimum of 55psi.

They will "break in" after a few cases, so you'll have to check them again. I've found that mine usually drop about 5 psi over that period. After that, I throw in another shim or two, and it usually stays put forever after that unless I mess with it.

I service my angels on a yearly basis. Usually at the end of the season. Swap out O-rings, that sort of thing. They really don't need much when they are set up and broken in.

You don't want to overdo the pressure and put 80 or 90 psi, because that really will send the rams to an early grave lol.

270 psi is the recommended HPR pressure for the standard A1. With the Fly internals you should be quite a bit lower (for whatever reason, the A1 Fly manual doesn't reflect this). Usually 200 psi HPR, 55-60 psi LPR and 6 ms dwell is the recommended setup (this is the way the Master Techs were setting up the guns when they were released). You must set your HPR first before setting the LPR. If you have the updated D-Lite valve and Booster bolt, you can lower your pressure even further. Some people are able to run theirs as low as 150 psi, but 175 psi is more typical.

If you change over to those settings you should see the same velocity and a pretty dramatic improvement in efficiency.

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Oring sizes for a rebuildable ram:

The front ram piston o-ring is 6mm x 2mm, the rear ram piston o-ring and breech knob o-ring are 8.1mm x 1.5mm and the bumper is BS/imperial 006. The piston o-rings are NBR 70, the bumper is PU 90.

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Broken opti sensor plastics?

Ok some of you may recall I had a hpr reg o-ring issue earlier this weekend... may have that one resolved picked up some o-rings at the field today....

did the o-ring swap and was trying to re chrono my gun and the darn thing just stopped registering shots....

Everything was working so I figured maybe my trigger wasn't going far enough back to register with the opto dealio as has happened once before...

opened my grip frame up and saw plastic pieces in there... not a good start....

turns out they are the piece that cover the the opto thingy on the board ... havent the slightest idea how, but the thing is in pieces and now both sides of the opto is completely exposed

and so my trigger wont register at all ------------- ok angel geniuses / electronic wiz kids how do I fix this




PM me your email and I can send you pics of what I am talking about if you dont understand my terrible description.

the cheapest solution is to by a evlution z board (3 bux on ans)

It uses the same optical sensors as the a1 board, but has rubber covers instead of hard plastic.

Slide them off the zboard, throw it away, and slide them on your a1 board.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=4588321

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Angel charger plug specs:

http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kobi ... pcxQ%3d%3d

Manufacturer: Kobiconn
Product Category: DC Power Connectors
RoHS: RoHS Compliant Details
Brand: Kobiconn
Product: Plugs
Inside Contact Diameter: 1.3 mm
Outside Contact Diameter: 3.4 mm
Mounting Angle: Straight
Current Rating: 2 A
Voltage Rating: 12 V
Center Pin Length: 8.9 mm
Color: Black
Connector Type: DC Power Plug
Gender: Male
Housing Material: Polycarbonate (PC)
Insulation Resistance: 100 MOhms

http://www.radioshack.com/size-h-coaxia ... ce=VigLink

MAKE A POWERFUL CONNECTION.
This inline plug connector is ideal for replacing damaged plugs on AC or DC adapters. It fits external power jacks on many portable electronics such as tape players, CD players, radios and RC cars. Also fits many answering machines and musical keyboards. Package of two.
Change AC adapter terminations
Replaces damaged power jacks
Tip size: 3.4mm O.D.x1.3mm I.D.

Battery Features
Capacity UOM mAh
Rechargeable No
Fulfillment
Package Height 2.50
Package Length 0.87
Package Width 2.77
General
Body Material Plastic
Model 274-1571
Product Type Plugs
0.00
Merchandising
Included in the box
Inline Plug DC Power Connector (2)

Miscellaneous Features
Operating Temperature UOM ° F
Supported Languages English
Power Features
Docking station No
Warranty
Manufacturer Labor 90.00
Manufacturer Parts 90.00
Available RadioShack Service Plan No
Warranty Labor UOM days
Warranty Parts UOM days
Cable Features
Cable Type Plugs

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_power_connector
'

OD (mm) ID (mm) CPD (mm) Barrel length (mm) Adaptaplug Standard Volts Plug part numbers Jack part numbers Notes
3.40 1.30 H Kobiconn 3210-E Kobiconn 0309-EX (inline)

NOTE!

Yep, outside sleeve is positive, inside sleeve is ground, which is the opposite of the way most DC power plugs are wired.
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[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Originally Posted by rkj1974
Yes, but be prepared for the magnet to fall out in short order. The glue used for those has not aged well nor does superglue stick well to delrin.


Loctite control gel super glue. Nothing else. Way better than what was used when they were originally made. All of the ones I have personally, I have removed the magnets are re-glued with the above.
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[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Orings

If you want to go the DIY route, most of the o-ring sizes are listed in the Grease and Lube Card (you can download a copy in this thread). Any of the o-ring sizes listed as "BSxx" (where xx is the number) are standard sized. BS = British Standard, which is the same as US standard. If the actual o-ring dimension is given in mm, it's metric.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php? ... st88770425