Lurker method:
Gen 1 -3:
Lurker method of sweetspotting regs.
1: Back out both regs or Zero out both the LPR and HPR to 0psi
2: Raise HPR slightly only to set LPR for cycling
3: Raise LPR to fully cycling ~45psi or so
4: Raise HPR until velocity begins to stop rising as you increase pressure
5: Raise LPR to desired velocity
6: Lower HPR a bit, then raise if necessary... you're trying to find the best HPR setting at the LPR setting you have. This may put your velocity over 300/285
7: Lower LPR slightly to field velocity
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php? ... st45621901
Gen 5:
Thank you for purchasing an Eigenram upgrade ram for your Generation 5 Intimidator!
Installation:
1. Remove Bolt from Marker
2. Unscrew lower back cap, remove ram.
3. Decide on your weight. Either cut the included hollow black spacer to match the length of
the brass insert (if it is not already) or install the brass insert to the back of the ram. The
brass insert is recommended for users with the stock bolt.
4. Cut the bumper flush with the back of the ram. Scissors are totally adequate for all
cutting.
5. Lightly lube O-rings with Lurker Lube or your own favorite lubricant.
6. Install Ram.
7. Replace stock poppet spring with lightened poppet spring by removing front block.
Tuning:
1. Poppet choice – We recommend the HP poppet for base tuning.
2. As you’ve modified your gun from stock, we recommend our tuning algorithm to find the
settings that are optimal for your gun.
3. Set the dwell to 3.0ms. If FSDO is encountered, increase the setting until it is gone.
4. Set LPR to 75 psi
5. Back HPR all the way down. Start firing shots over the chrono until velocity no longer
increases with increasing pressure.
6. Increase LPR until FPS is close to desired Field Velocity.
7. Find the point with the HPR where increasing or decreasing the HPR Pressure results in
lowered velocity. This is the “Sweet Spot”, where efficiency and consistency are best.
A Note on the Brass Insert:
To remove, bang the rear of the ram against a hard, flat surface until the brass insert is flush with
the back of the ram. Use a flick of the wrist to generate centrifugal force to remove the insert
fully, or use negative pressure to remove. A clean bore and insert will make this much easier.
http://www.lurkerpb.com/manuals/vicerammanual.pdf
Originally Posted by oldironmudder
OK,
The vertical regulator (one you hold on to during play) is the High Pressure Regulator or HPR.
The horizontal regulator (parallel to the barrel) is the Low Pressure Regulator or LPR.
The LPR supplies air to the solenoid & ram. The HPR supplies air to the LPR & poppet to fire the ball.
First, adjust the adjustment screws out (counter clock wise). Turn marker on & disable eyes. Screw in air supply (turn on on-off if you have one). Take a 3/16" allen key & turn the HPR 3 turns clockwise. Take bolt & slide it forward opening the poppet to confirm air is entering the marker. At this time, the gauge on the side of the front block should read zero ( 0 ). If not, replace oring on the outside of LPR. If zero, take 3/16" allen key & turn LPR until it reads 60psi. Dry fire the marker several times. At this point you are ready for paint & a trip to the chrono. Take your allen key, marker & paint to the chrono. Follow what the link I posted above said about chronoing & balancing the regulators.
Now after you chrono you still are shooting low, you either dont have a barrel on the marker, you have kinked hoses in the grip frame or your dwell is to low.
Dwell should be between 8 & 10 ms. Hoses should be kink free & bend smoothly. And if you are trying this without a barrel, give up now.
Now if this doesnt help at all which it should, find a local person that knows Timmys. Not just someone who has looked at the manual or diagrams. Give it to them & tell them what is happening & tell them to fix it. Now if you cant do that, you might ask around here to see if someone is willing to get it working right.
http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums ... hp?p=83336
Originally Posted by Jack & Coke
When I spoke with Bob on the phone, he gave me a few tips on how to gas up the Timmy for optimal and consistent performance. Will the Timmy work if you just gas it up? Sure!
But what follows is what Bob believes and practices...
HOW TO GAS UP YOUR GUN FOR A WHOLE DAY OF PAINTBALL
1. When you first gas up your Timmy for a day of paintball, screw in your tank (or turn on the on/off ASA). Your gun will pressurize and you will be able to fire it.
2. Take a hex wrench and back the set screw of your LP Reg out (counter clock-wise) until it is flush with the end cap. Do the same to the HP reg. Fire your marker a few times as you do this and you will immediately notice that the system loses pressure to the point that it will not cycle (Kinda like when you de-gas a CO2 bottle from a marker).
EDIT: Step 2.5. Turn the HPR screw in about a turn or so, just to get a little pressure flowing into the marker so you can successfully perform step 3.
3. Slowly begin turning the LP reg screw in (clock-wise) in small increments (i.e. 1/16 of a turn) as you fire the gun. Keep doing this until your main gauge reads 85 psi (EDIT: at the time this article was written, it was geared towards a Gen 2 (2k2) - if you have a Gen3, the manual suggests a range of 70-80 psi - likewise, if you have a Gen4, the manual suggests a range of 55-65 psi). Now your operating pressure is set.
4. After you have set the operating to 85 psi (EDIT: see note above), slowly screw in the set screws in the HP reg (clock-wise), until you see about 4 threads. This should put you in the neighborhood of 250-310 fps.
5. Go to a chrono and fine turn the HP reg setting until your marker is shooting at the velocity you want.
6. DO NOT DE-GAS YOUR GUN FOR THE REST OF THE DAY. Bob keeps his marker pressurized until his is done for the day. Only use your power on/off switch to disable your gun.
What this does is reset the tensions on the HP and LP reg springs. When you first gas the gun up, the gas pressure in your tank slams full force into the HP and LP regs. It takes time (i.e. many shots) for the springs to correctly adjust from a state of non-pressure, to a state of consistent pressure.
The idea of steps 1-5 is to slowly introduce pressure into your gun's system instead of 'shocking' it. Just think of the Regs as faucet valves in your sink. Be nice to them !
The idea of step 6 is to keep the springs in your regs under consistent pressure so your gun will have consistent velocities throughout the day. Good consistent spring pressure = good consistent regs = good consistent air pressure on the balls = good consistent ball trajectories = good consistent ACCURACY! Let's say you play 10 games, and after each game you de-gas your gun. That's 10 times your reg springs have to reset! How do you expect your regs to be consistent?
Bob says he does this every time he plays. But if you just want to goof around and shoot the gun, it's ok to just gas it up and rock and roll. Just don't expect super duper consistent velocities.
http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums ... d.php?t=19
http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums ... stcount=23
http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums ... ostcount=9
they don't require pressure testers
The pressure testers are an awesome TOOL that helps with tuning and setting your gun up
Bob Long doesn't have to provide an optional pressure tester accessory. As a matter of fact, he's one of the few companies that does. Dye doesn't, Planet Eclipse doesn't, MacDev has one for the Clone GT, but very few companies offer it
It's an amazing tool, to tune your gun to your liking. Personally, I can tune guns pretty easy without a pressure tester. Here is what I do-
From zero pressure on LPR & HPR-
Give two turns on the HPR to air up the gun, then turn the LPR in a turn or two.
Chrono
Keep incrementally increasing your HPR & LPR pressure till you get close to 290fps
Now - start increasing LPR pressure till the velocity plateaus, aka doesn't go up any more. Now increase LPR pressure about 1/4 of a turn past that point. Now, adjust the HPR until your at 290fps.
At this point, you're LPR should be set. You've got a little extra pressure on the LPR, to move the bolt in case your lube gets thin, or an oring gets worn in a bit, or the bolt gets dirty.
Hope this helps
Backing off how hard you hit the poppet (reducing LPR pressure, reducing dwell) can have a pretty negative effect on how your gun performs
If you have to increase HPR pressure to increase velocity (with a "tuned LPR"), this can have a "submarine door" effect on the poppet, and your reduced dwell and LPR pressure can actually cause your velocity to go down.
If you smack the poppet hard, it opens up all the way, allowing your to run a lower HPR which is what actually propels the ball out of the barrel.
I tend to just run my dwell @ 8ms, LPR @ 80psi, and I've found this allows me to reduce my HPR pressure to get to 300fps.
Leave your dwell @ 8ms. Set your gun to 80psi and your HPR to 300fps. Then start backing out your LPR slowly until your velocity starts to drop. Once it starts to drop, tighten it 1/4 turn. That should put your ram at it's optimum pressure so it's not over-smacking the poppet, causing vibration through the gun.
Idealy, you shouldn't be using your LPR to adjust velocity. If you are, you need to increase your LPR pressure.
But I've found from shooting Bob Long's for years, that they really tend to like 80psi. Once you start going below that, all hell breaks loose with inconsistency over the chrono. I played the entire 2009 PSP using the Vice, and I kept it at 80psi the entire season. Every time I walked up the chrono, regardless of what city I was in, it shot consistent. Whenever my consistency started to get a bit flaky, low LPR was always to blame.
Hope this helps!
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/ask- ... otege.html
Do this....there really is no need for a video...
You need to know-the HPR air pushes the paintball out of the barrel, the lpr air opens the valve that store the HPR air. There is a balance, or "sweetspot", that needs to be maintained for this thing to run like a sewing machine.
just know that the goal of this all is to have the lowest LPR setting for a given HPR setting that can utilize the lowest dwell without sacrificing fps, consistency, fsdo, drop off during high rof, or efficiency.
-With no air on the gun back out both regs to flush
-Set your dwell to 6
-Turn your gun on
-Turn your eyes off
-Put air on your gun
-Increase your HPR pressure (clockwise) until you hear air enter the gun
-Add another 1/2-3/4 turn increase on your hpr
-now while pulling your trigger (solenoid should just be clicking at this point) slowly increase your LPR (clockwise) until the gun fully cycles quickly
-Put a hopper on your gun with paintballs in it that match your barrel size
-chrono 3 shots (take the average)
-Increase your hpr using 1/16-1/8 turns (chronoing 3 shots/avg after each small adjustment)
-Once you hit the point where the velocity stops increasing (not decreases...but stops increasing) then increase your lpr by 1/16 turn to chrono to your desired fps
-if your velocity stops increasing no matter how much you increase lpr then go back to the point where it stopped increasing and repeat the HPR increase
-This is your sweet spot....now decrease your dwell until you lose velocity, consistency, or get fsdo/drop off during high rof. At that dwell setting that you get any of the things I just mentioned increase it by 1 ms.
-Degas your gun and install your pressure tester (if you have one) write your pressures and dwell settings down.
BAM
Congratulations you now have the best shooting gun ever made in the history of paintball....
I sure hope you use this....
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php? ... st78812639
Gen 5 settings:
stock is pretty much the optimum setting, i wouldnt mess with it too much, heres how i run mine-
lpr 70
dwell 6
anti bolt stick 5
bolt delay 15 (i had trouble with it spitting blank shots on ramping)
debounce 6
anti mech bounce 4
cycle per. filter 90
BIP delay 5
eye mode forced
air up
http://www.techpb.com/forum/index.php?s ... t&p=656378
