Physical Technical Specifications

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Autococker timing rod set screw specs:

http://customcockers.com/forum/showthre ... screw-size
http://customcockers.com/forum/showthre ... -set-screw

Most WGP were 6-32 and some are 6-40

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

A Warrior swab is approximately 17" full length.

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

ASA threads:

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=260962

The fitting holes are 1/8-27 NPT. I dont actually know what the bottle threads are...

i believe the asa thread is 1/2" 14 bspf

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

T9.1 stock barrel tip thread:

7/8"x20

Isn't it 7/8"x10? I thought that it was lapco/hammerhead that was 7/8"x20

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/2337364-post2.html
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/2337917-post4.html
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/2341323-post5.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Oval, vert ASA cocker O-ring specs:

From customcockers, there was a few different answers, either 113 from oringmonkey, a #10 or 11 from ACE hardware, or the exact measurements would be 11/16" ID, 7/8" OD, and 3/32" thick.

I'd check ACE hardware if you have one local, or maybe even a Lowes or Home Depot. If you don't mind waiting a little bit, check with oringmonkey and confirm the size with them, they will probably know exactly the one you need given those measurements.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/wgp/ ... ost2355137

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Good, general info:

http://www.vm68.com/stuff/index.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Automag 2 hole front grip screw specs:

tight clearance hole with appropriate counter bore for 10-32 Low SHCS...
#9 (.196) THRU HOLE with nearside 19/64" DIA counterbore at a min depth of .100"

Obviously, you know the spacing of the holes based on the Vert Adapter you're attaching.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showpost ... ostcount=2

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Automag on/off teflon oring if not using CO2:

It's a size 006 urethane, 90 durometer.

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=261863

If you use the retro on-off, it needs to be the entire retro on-off assembly, not just the pin. It sounds like you have the entire retro assembly from the X-valve so you should be fine. The small inner oring on the on-off top is different from the classic oring. The retro one is urethane and the classic one is teflon. The teflon won't work properly for the retro pin.

http://automags.org/forums/showpost.php ... ostcount=9

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Spring:

Yes, the gold spring is the most versatile. It works in all situations and still gives adequate chop protection for most paint. The only paint you really need to tune the bolt spring for is really brittle tournament paint.

http://automags.org/forums/showpost.php ... stcount=19


Tuning Level 10:

Don't follow the AGD instructions exactly. We have found a few tweaks over the years that negate some of the original thoughts that are in the original instructions.

The carriers are sized using lines and dots. Each line represents a 1 and a series of dots represents 0.5. Eg; 2 lines and dots equals size 2.5. Carriers range from size 0 to 3.5 but most people only have from 0 to 2.5 and most new kits have even less.

When tuning your level 10, remove all the shims from the powertube before starting. They don't affect the operation but they can cause false leaks which cause you to use a carrier size that is too tight. Don't put them back when you are done. You shouldn't ever need them.

For carrier sizing:

Find the carrier size that causes the installed oring to fit freely over the bolt stem. The carrier should sit on the bolt stem without moving if the bolt is held in a vertical position. If you tap the valve on a hard surface, the carrier should be loose enough to allow the bolt to move. If you have to force the carrier onto the bolt stem with any force at all, then it is too tight. Install the bolt and valve into the gun. When aired up there should be no leaking. If it leaks, take the carrier out and replace it with the next smaller size. Always use the same white carrier oring in each carrier that you use. It is the orings that you are adjusting. Try it again. You want to use the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak.

Any time that the gun fires and does not reset or short strokes and does not reset, or just chuffs and does not reset, the problem is most likely a carrier that is too tight. Installing shims will not help. Shims only help if the bolt moves, hits an object but does not vent any air, and then cannot reset because the chamber is still fully charged. Most of the time the bolt always moves far enough to expose the vent hole, get rid of excess air, and then reset.

For spring adjustment:

You want to use the bolt spring that allows you to shoot about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will cycle at. So, if you want to use the gun at 280fps, then your desired lower limit of operation is 260fps. Insert your long bolt spring. Turn the velocity adjuster down before you air up the valve. Then gradually turn up the velocity until the gun will cycle. This is your lower velocity. Measure it. If it is above 265fps, then you will need a shorter spring or you will need to clip the one you have (unless you have red one. They are usually in the correct range). If you clip a spring, only clip half a coil at a time and then try it using the same procedure of starting with a low velocity setting. Make sure you put the cut end of the spring towards the bolt. If you have the short spring installed, and the lower range is 30fps below the desired shooting velocity, I wouldn't worry about using a stiffer spring and would just go with the short bolt spring. If it was much lower than that, I would definately clip a long spring to get closer to the desired range.

http://automags.org/forums/showpost.php ... stcount=17

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

High pressure regulator ( hpr ) tests done on a sft shocker, DM7, and Excalibur showing recharge rates:

http://www.ppog.org/regtesting/results.shtml

How to read the graphs

The graphs show the pressure square inch (psi) as recorded by my equipment over a given timespan represented by milliseconds (ms). For inline regulators the the transducer is placed between the inline regulator and valve chamber. Tank regulators are tested by placing the transducer between the tank output and the inline.

The single shot graphs are generated automatically so they are not always representative, for instance the dynaflow since it has such an odd reading do not have single shot.

Each large dip represents a shot, when you see several large dips in a row that is representative of several shots.



The above shows the results of a sidewinder test I did some time ago.

What do these tests mean? These tests are meant to give a snapshot of relative performance. Since I do this as a passtime I don't get to test multiples of each regulator like a truly definitive test would, but these tests should give an idea of performance between regulators.

How do I tell a regulator does well, the depth of the dip or time to reach starting? The time to starting point is the important item. It does not matter how deep the dip is, only how long until it reaches starting pressure.

Some regs do not reach starting point either in single shot or multiple, what is going on there? Some regulators were creeping, some simply did not perform well at all. IF a regulator does not return to starting point in a string of firing then that means you have a loss of FPS. I tested this with a shocker and at 15bps with most regulators there was a 20-30fps drop of velocity.

More to come as I add it.

http://web.archive.org/web/200903311054 ... howto.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Automag weights:

Classic Valve:
Powertube Only(w/o internals, on/off, bolt assembly): 5.2 oz.*
Powertube w/Internals, Stock On/Off & L7 Powertube Tip Assembly(w/o Bolt/Spring) : 5.8 oz.*
Powertube w/Internals & L10 Powertube Tip Assembly(w/o Bolt Assembly): 5.9 oz.*

Reg Only(w/o internals) : 5.0 oz.*
Reg w/Internals: 6.0 oz.*


RT Valve:
Powertube Only(w/o internals, on/off, bolt assembly): 5.4 oz.*
Powertube w/Internals, Stock On/Off, L7 Powertube Tip Assembly(w/o Bolt/Spring): 6.1 oz.*
Powertube w/Internals, Stock On/Off, L10 Powertube Tip Assembly(w/o Bolt/Spring): 6.2 oz.*

Reg Only(w/o internals): 1.5 oz.*
Reg w/Internals: 3.9 oz.*

XValve:
Powertube Only(w/o internals, on/off, bolt assembly): 2.3 oz.*
Powertube w/Internals, Stock On/Off, L7 Powertube Tip Assembly(w/o Bolt/Spring): 3.0 oz.*
Powertube w/Internals, Stock On/Off, L7 Powertube Tip Assembly(w/o BoltSpring): 3.1 oz.*

Reg Only(w/o internals): 1.5 oz.*
Reg w/Internals: 3.9 oz.*


Bolts:
Level 7 ShortNose/Non-Foamie Bolt: 2.0 oz.*
Level 7 LongNose/Non-Foamie Bolt: 2.1 oz*
Level 7 Foamie Bolt w/Foamie: 1.9 oz.*
Level 7 Foamie SuperBolt w/Delrin Sleeve & Foamie: 1.1 oz.*
Level 10 Bolt w/Foamie: 1.3 oz.*



Bodies
AGD ULE Vert Feed Body
Body only(w/o feedneck, detent, c-clip/retaining washer) : 3.1 oz.*
Body w/Stock Feedneck, AGD Detent, C-Clip/Retaining Washer: 3.9 oz.*

Deadlywind Karta Body
Body only(w/o feedneck, detent, c-clip/retaining washer): 4.2 oz.*


Body Parts:
AGD Detent: .1 oz.*
C-Clip/Retaining Washer: >.1 oz.*
AGD Stock Feedneck: .6 oz.*


Frames
AGD Intelliframe
Frame Only(w/o grips, safety, trigger) - 5.9 oz.*
Frame w/Dye Sticky3 Grips & Safety(w/o trigger) - 7.6 oz.*
Frame w/Dye Sticky3 Grips, Safety, AGD Pro Blade Trigger - 7.9 oz.*

Trigger Frame Parts:
AGD Pro Blade Trigger - .2 oz.*
Dye Sticky3 Grips(Gris Only) - 1.6 oz.*
4 8-32 x 3/8" Cap Head Screw - .2 oz.*

Rails
AGD Rails
AGD Stock RT Pro Rail - 7.5 oz.*
AGD Stock E-Mag Rail - 7.0 oz.*
AGD Stock Tac-One Rail - 6.7 oz.*
AGD Stock Automag/MiniMag Rail - 4.7 oz.*
AGD ULE E-Mag Rail - 3.7 oz.*

TunaMan Rails
TunaRail - 4.6 oz.
Omega Rail - 4.1 oz.

ASA's & Foregrips
ASA's:
AGD Pro ASA(ASA Only) : .8 oz.*

Foregrips:
AGD Bicycle Grip: 4.2 oz.*
CP Mini Gas-Thru: 1.8 oz.*


*Accuracy +/- .1 oz.
__________________

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/air- ... ost2493329

http://themagsmith.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=33

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

I am wondering if anyone knows what material is push lock air line? Is it nylon, or polyethylene, or??? The more info you could give me, the better.

As per ASP its Nylon-12.

By popular demand, now available in color. Our color macroline is much more flexible than our black macroline, but is also rated for a much lower pressure (we only recommend it for use with LP output air systems).
Black macroline specs:

Black Nylon-12
.150" ID
.250" OD
.050" wall
1000 psi working pressure (3000 psi burst)
0.5" bend radius
Color macroline specs:

Red or blue (discontinued) Nylon-12
.170" ID
.250" OD
.040" wall
450 psi working pressure (1350 psi burst)
0.5" bend radius

http://www.airsoldier.com/mm5/merchant. ... e=FITTINGS

Most factory guns are shipped with Nylon-12, but most aftermarket suppliers use Nylon-11.

Reasons are what you might guess. Nylon-11 is cheaper, though has a lower pressure limit.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/ask- ... -line.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Adjusting the shims in a Pure Energy hpa tank:
http://bb.bbboy.net/straferbbmachinegun ... hread=2117

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Molex parts for markers:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php? ... st46365066

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Barrel and tip threads

I can't find it anywhere but I did find this list:
Autococker: 7/8-20
CP Products: 7/8-20 - or is it M22x1.5?
FLASC: M22x1
Hammerhead: 7/8x20
J&J: 7/8-20?
Lapco: 7/8-20
Milsig: M22x1?
OpsGear: ?
RAP4 (Tactical/Recon): M22x1
SpecOps C-Series: ?
Tiberius: 7/8-20
Trinity: M22x1

I'm guessing its going to be m22x1. But i really don't know.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/ask- ... ading.html