AGD AutoMag

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

AGD single trigger frames were often made of a carbon fiber blend:

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/ask- ... tanks.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

General efficiency numbers for an X-Valve:

Rule of thumb for mags and similar markers is 10 shots/cu in @ 3k and 15 shots/cu in @4.5k.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/2383013-post3.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Clear bumper washer = Level 10

Blue bumper washer = Level 7

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/2387502-post12.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

When Tom Kaye was asked how reliable an Automag was, he knew he had a problem. He couldn't answer that question at the present because reliability is based on time. So, he devised a way to show how well-built Automags were.


He lifted a car with one.

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Centerflag Hyperframe ( hyper frame ) Info:

Overall:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... ost1836339
http://www.pblegion.com/showthread.php?t=672

Substitute ULT for CF on/off:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=220997

Use an APE solenoid to replace CF one; also, can use A-5 board setup in Centerflag to replace a dead board:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... ost2466501
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3191848

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Emag battery specs:

14 AAA 1.2 volt 650 mAH NiMH batteries packed together in a trapazoidal shape in a series circut to produce an average of 16.8 volts of electrical power and 650 mAH of juice. Fully charged they pack over 18 volts of power.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21149
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=231977


Replacement pack:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=217208

Or, 2 AAA packs rated at 8.4v is a possibility.

Dealer for parts:
http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=238997


How to Replace Your Emag Battery:

I allready mounted the battery on my mag, but just for you guys i made a short tutorial.

DISCLAIMER:

If you have no expierence with soldering whatsoever, have this done by a professional!! I am not responsible if you crew things up! Also my writing could be a bit "off" I live in the netherlands, so my english isn't perfect, please bare with me.

First we'll need the following items:

- soldering iron (25 watts will do ya)
- Wet spunge (for cleaning the solder iron tip)
- Some solder
- Cutting pliers (not pictured) for cutting the wire to the correct length
- X-acto knife or any other sharp knife for trimming the outer lining
- Tin sucker (that's what we call it over here)
- Magic marker to mark the positive lead

Also you could use a 3rd hand (also that's what we call it over here) for some extra comfort:

You don't really need it, but it makes the job more easy to do. If you have something else to clamp the battery connector, that's fine too.
First we will be removing the old battery from its casing, with a 9/64 allen wrench. After that mark your positive lead with a magic marker so you will solder the correct wire to the correct lead. (red wire is positive, black negative) You can also de-solder one wire, and put the new one in place, but that's a bit unhandy to do. Just mark the positive lead and desolder them both.

After that, you would want to use the "tin sucker" and removing all the old solder out of the connectors. Pictured here is only the sucker and already made joints, but the idea is you melt the old solder with your iron, and suck it out when its melted. The sucker has a plunger that you press in, and it releases when you press the black button on the side, sucking in any melted solder. That way you can mount the new wire in the original hole without problem. A short in-and-out is what you want, because the connectors are mounted onto a plastic plate.. If you heat it too long it will melt the plate and you're screwed! Sometimes adding a bit of fresh solder to the iron tip will help removing the old solder. If it takes more than 5 seconds to melt the solder, stop right away and let it cool. Otherwise you could melt the plastic! Also if you have a heavy soldering iron (more than 25 watts) be extra carefull because it will apply alot more heat than a iron like i have will.

When you cleaned out the old solder, it is time to cut the new battery's wire to the correct length. I've cut mine to about 1,5 inch, rougly the same as the old battery. Cut them one by one and not both in one go. The pack has some charge in it and when cutting both wires you make a short, damaging your tool and your pack.
After that, take a sharp knife and peel off about 1/4 inch off the outer lining. Do not solder that right away, just twist the ends it so the metal wires keep toghether. Insert one lead into the correct connector hole, and add the soldering iron and some solder. Clean the tip of the iron before going in with the spunge, just a quick wipe will do ya, so you will have a clean tip and fresh solder. Otherwise the solder might not flow correctly and you will have a poor joint.
Also this has to be done in a quick in-and-out fasion, if you apply too much heat you will damage the plastic of the connector. Just add the iron, then the solder and make sure it flows into the connector and wiring. This action should not take more than 3 seconds to do. After that, wait a minute to let the part cool a bit, and do the other connector.

When you are done, it should look like this:

I've added the old insulator plate of the original pack for added security, but it should not be needed. If you make sure the soldering has no sharp edges that can puncture the battery's insulation, you should be good to go. Then mount it back into the case, and monitor its charging. I keep the charger next to me on the desk when charging, so i can monitor if it gets warm/hot. If it gets hot, or the charger, there's probably a short. If you did everything right, the battery should charge and should hardly be warmer when it's charged.

Well i hope this clears out some things... But if you have very little soldering expierence, i would have somebody else that has do this for you. It's a very simple job, but also easily messed up. So if you aren't comfortable with doing this, have it done by someone who knows what he is doing.

Have fun with this new pack, i'm pretty sure i will.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showpost ... stcount=16

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

ACE board in an Emag:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=226906

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

How to re-wire your Warp.

The P C board is labeled

Small Wt gauge wire = mtr2
both of these go to the electric motor
small RD guage wire = mtr1

GND = black or Ground

VCC = Red or hot B+

Now if your running a double 12v mod , you just twist the two Black & two red wires together so they are now in parallel
and put the two black in where the single black would have gone ,and same for the red

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=261985

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

EP front grip:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=236131

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Dye UL on a mech 'mag:

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/air- ... r-mag.html


Egomag alignment:

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

I just picked up an mag from a guy i know who couldnt get it to stop leaking. I was able to solve a couple of the leak issues but i do know know enough about mags to fix it.

It currently has a leak that goes down the barrel. Any advice on this would be appreciated.

Thanks

Put it in mech mode, pull and hold the trigger down. if it continues to leak then you have a bad on/off oring. If it stops it's your bolt.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/air- ... eeded.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Custom flashing your Emag and the differences between versions:

http://www.niedtech.com/

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Emag trigger adjustment guide:

http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paintbal ... igger.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

What is the front grip frame bolt size? On a classic mag

10-32

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/air- ... stion.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Cheap parts kits:

http://www.smokinproducts.com/index.php ... oductId=43
http://www.smokinproducts.com/index.php ... oductId=41
http://www.smokinproducts.com/index.php ... oductId=42