AKA LMP Viking / Excalibur

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

How to tell the difference between the SCM1 and SCM3.

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

2004 Viking tear down:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1961562

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Robtown valve installation:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2067072

Ok, just to give credit where credit is due, some of these pics are Nitros, and I just used them as a matter of convenience instead of retaking and uploading pictures that show the same thing. He did a nice job, so I use his. Now, most of the pics are my own and I took them myself. I'm sure it’s obvious which ones are mine.



Anyhow, I recently acquired my Robtown air assist valve and hammer kit. I must say, this kit is awesome. Keep in mind I just installed it though, and I have encountered zero issues so far. So lets get started.

Good luck on your install, and if you don’t feel comfortable doing this….STOP….send it to Jared at DC. I'm not responsible for your gun if you mess it up.


You need:

3 prong tool
AKA lube
Paper towel or rag, and q tip
Spanner wrench (crescent wrench for 04s)
Robtown valve kit
Blue removable loctite


First the money shots…..weight difference between stock hammer kit and the robtown hamer kit.

Stock = 39.7 grams (included a bumper, probably negligible on my scale)
Robtown = 12.6 grams

That’s 31.7% of the weight of the stock, or a 68.3% reduction in reciprocating mass…..AMAZING. The hammer itself is insanely lightweight. As others have said, it feels like plastic. Its unreal.

Stock Hammer


Robtown Hammer



Ok, now how to install.

Step 1:

Pull your bolt pin up. Remove your hammer cartridge using the 3 prong tool. When you get your hammer unscrewed as far as it will go, put your bolt pin in front of the hammer and push it down, then use the boltpin to push the hammer cartridge out of the gun. Kinda like Nitro did in this pic.



Step 2:

Now remove the front cap on the valve side of the gun (or Mitey Max if you have a MM).




Step 3:

Remove the valve setscrew that is holding your tornado valve. Like this. Then push the valve out the back of the gun using a chopstick or something that won't damage your valve.






Step 4:

Clean the entire right tube extremely well. I used a paper towel and a chopstick. Whatever you use, just be sure that you don’t get any sand/debris/or paper towel chunks stuck in the holes that feed the hammer or the ASA area. Should look like this now.



Step 5:

Disassemble your hammer catridge. On 03s you need a spanner wrench, 04s have a hex cap on the hammer cartridge, which is much easier and requires one less tool.




Step 6:

Remove the hammer internals carefully. I did mine over carpet or a towel or something. If the hammer is stuck in there, you can tap it out into your palm. It will look like this when you get it out. Then clean the inside of your cartridge w/ qtips.




Step 7:

Now for the hard part, remove the hammer weight from the hammer shaft. From my understanding, they are red loctited from the factory. Whatever you do, don’t score up the shaft or brass fitting on the tail in of the shaft. You will want to store away your stock hammer incase it is ever needed in the future, or if you sell your gun, and the new owner wants it. Then remove all the orings/bumpers/stops from the stock hammer. It will look like this. Robtown hammer is above the internals, stock is on bottom. Parts are in order from left to right on how they should be put on your hammer.




Step 8:

You will now need to put the internals on in reverse order on the new hammer. I put the small bumper on the shaft first. Then put the tophat stop on (this stops the forward stroke of the hammer w/in the cartridge). Put the tophat stop on concave side down so that the bumper seats inside of it. Now put the UR70 010 oring on the tail of the hammer. Apply a bit of AKA lube to the tail oring. Then put the other UR70 010 oring in the countersunk side of the cartridge cap and put a bit of AKA lube on it as well. Then slide it over the hammer shaft. Apply a small drop of blue / removable loctite to the threads on the cap threads. Then tighten the cap onto the cartridge, but don’t overtighten. Then slide the large bumper onto the hammer shaft (in between the hammer weight and the cartridge cap, this stops the backward stroke of the hammer). Then put a drop of blue loctite on the threads where the hammer weight threads onto the hammer shaft. I didn’t take a picture of the robtown one after I finished, but here is the stock one. This cap should be screwed into place though.




Step 9:


Install the robtown valve using a drop of AKA lube on the outer orings of the valve body. Make sure when you put the valve in that you line the hole on the valve body up w/ the hole in your gun where the valve setscrew goes. Notice the valve hole is facing same direction as the setscrew hole.




Step 10:

Put a drop of blue loctite on the valve setscrew and secure the valve in place with it. Then replace your valve spring and front cap. Then replace the hammer cartridge and bolt, and then air it up……..NO LEAKS right. Well, I didn’t have any. If you do it right, you won't have any either.




Now all you have to do is fine tune your LPR, dwell, and HPR to get a consistent, safe velocity.

My settings are:

03 viking
Humphrey solenoid
Dwell = 9ms
HPR = ?
LPR = 69-70 psi
Chronograph = 275-280 fps

Every gun is different, but these settings work well for me. BE SAFE AND HAVE FUN....Thats what its all about!

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Timing on the Viking:

Set it as low as you want to without sacrificing performance. My magic number is 68. I set all my AKA stuff about 66/68. Does it make much of a difference, I seem to notice it feeling smoother. I run my dwell a little higher to compensate for the lower LPR. If your getting blowback with an Excal try upping your after shot delay and your bolt close delay. I'm running a WAS board with MAC noids. Dwell at 12, after shot delay at 6, bolt close delay at 33. It still shoots as fast as I can pull the trigger, and it's very consistent. I think with those settings it's mechanically limited to about 13 CPS. I did the math once, also accounting for the time it takes to load a ball. The math goes something like this.

30 or so MS to load the ball
3 MS BIP delay
33 MS bolt close
12 MS fire
6 MS after shot delay
plus time to open the bolt again.

It's fuzzy math but it gives you an idea.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php? ... st55275444

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Tuning your LPR and dwell on a Viking:

I'd say 8ms dwell is too low for a viking, try with 10ms and lpr at 72psi.

FSDO is usually a function of the dwell. All my viking require a dwell of 12ms. Older viking many require a dwell of 18ms. Try this first.

go somewhere where you have access to paint and a chrono.

set your dwell at 6 and shoot it over the chrono (if it even shoots). raise the dwell until an increase in dwell doesnt yield an fps increase. once you found the ideal dwell remember it and in the winter bump it up 2-4 ms and lower the lpr.

once you set the dwell chrono your gun through the hpr to 280 fps or 300.

then lower the lpr until you get shoot-down, or inconsistent chrono readings, and raise it a quarter turn.

Just as a heads up, it seems that the issues I have been having are directly related to a bad ram. Just put in a new ram, fixed the LPR pressure which was way too low, and it appears to be working correctly. I may yet have to pick up the internals to convert my SCM to the '3' model to finish it off.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/aka/ ... guide.html

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Pics of hot cuts:

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Trigger installation:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1863506

AKA How To: Trigger install (the yak method)



Ok, so if you are reading this, you are probably installing a trigger and looking for reference. Ill cut right to it. This is how I do it. And I stress I….there are other ways to do it, but I find this to be the easiest way and requires the least amount of disassembly. In some cases, no disassembly is required.

Tools needed:

AKA gun / frame
Extreme lube
Blue (removable) loctite
Appropriate allen wrenches
Trigger (no brainer)

Pre install steps: Remove old trigger. I had sold my nurvous, so I didn’t have one to show pics of uninstalling, but I have pics just for the hell of it. To do it using the Yak method, unscrew your switch activation set screw. This allows you to be able to pull the old trigger out through the front of the frame. Unscrew the second allen setscrew from the front of your gun on your trigger frame. These are 2 pics for this step.


Turn your gun over so the right side is facing up. Push out your trigger pin w/ something small enough to go all the way through. I used an allen key.


Step 1:

Prep your new trigger. If it has roller bearings, put a drop of lube on the bearings and put the trigger pin in the hole and twist it so that the oil penetrates into the bearings and spreads around.


Step 2:

Turn your allen screws on the trigger out to expose enough thread to put blue loctite on them. Don’t overdo the loctite. Just a small drop is enough.

Step 3:

Turn your allen screws all the way flush with the edges of the trigger. This allows you to put the trigger through while the gun is still completely assembled. *Note…some triggers are different shapes and may or may not fit through the trigger guard space. Fortunately, Ive been able to get all of mine through that way*.


Step 4:

Slide your new trigger through the front of the trigger frame while the gun is assembled. This step is pretty straightforward. Just remember be careful not to force anything and scratch your anodizing. If it doesn’t slip in that easily, you may need to unscrew your setscrews a tad more.

Step 5:

Replace the trigger pin. Acidcustoms triggers come w/ a trigger pin. Don’t try and use the stock one, I checked….it seems too big to fit through the bearings.


Step 6:

Replace the trigger pin setscrew. I put a small drop of blue loctite on this as well. No need to overtighten it. You might strip your frame if you try to much.


Step 7:

Use your allen wrench to adjust the trigger setscrews. I always adjust the trigger where I want it first….THEN…adjust the activation setscrew.


Step 8:

This may or may not be necessary depending on your trigger style and whether or not you have already adjusted your return stop and it doesn’t require tweaking by luck. I had to adjust it this time, but its still minimal disassembly.


Step 9:

Tweak it to your liking. Probably only need minor adjustments from here. Then you can walk around the house like a dork walking your trigger just to make sure you like the feel of it. .


Pics of installed trigger.

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Mod a Quest frame to your Evil M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptxN7cv2Xic

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tx1b2CWHD1I

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Guide to rMOD flashing of Pandora boards:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2773823

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

AKA history guides.

Guns:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=4069005

Frames and triggers:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=4068720

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Review of frames for an Evil M

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php? ... st82293609

I've been meaning to write a review of the frames I've owned so here it goes:

Acid Customs Frame: I'd call it moderately pricey ($300), although it came with a carbon fiber trigger and aluminum grip panels. This was by far the easiest frame to set up. It mounts right on, takes a custom trigger (included) and fits '06 cyborg board. The over all height is average for M frames, although where your thumb notches into was a bit lower that of frames of similar height causing you to hold the frame more towards the bottom of it. This just felt weird along with my dislike for aluminum and plastic grip panels. John did a run of 6 of these, although he has mentioned the possibility of another run if there is demand. I have nothing but good things to say about my dealings with John.


Elia Frame: The most expensive frame when you add up all the extras ($250, $280, or $300 depending on which run you ordered). It takes all '07 Ego components, which definitely add up. While this should have been a simple bolt on and wire up, most people had minor issues which required some modification (mine came with the board mounting screws only tapped half way through, on the back half ). The over all height is average for M frames, although the feel is pretty good once cleaned up (lots of polishing needed as it only has rough cuts). Tony did three runs of these, however he had poor quality control as mentioned above, canceled several orders, and took much longer that he originally quoted with varying stories given to customers. I'm glad I finally received one (19 months from my original order), but dealing with Tony was a giant headache.
Price: $$$$$

Cyborg Frame: One of if not the cheapest ($30) and most readily available frames to get a hold of. Either an additional mounting hole needs to be added or one of the existing ones needs to be take back a good deal. An area for the solenoid needs to milled out although there is plenty of room. The overall height is about the same as the AC and Elia frames, and the area where your thumb notches is somewhere in between causing you to hold the frame somewhere in the middle (never cared for this on '06 borgs). If you couldn't guess, it takes '06 Cyborg components. Many have been able to do the mentioned modifications themselves, although nearly any machinist should be able to take care of them for you.

AKA Prototype Frame: I worked out trade with Jared to get one of these so I don't really know where to rate pricing, but I ended up selling it for $200 to give an idea. These mount directly to the body and fit AKA triggers (a little light sanding may be needed). Unfortunately, these were designed to take a new Pandora board, but only one prototype board was ever produced. A UTB is about the only other thing that fits in, but it is floating and soldering/crimping the wiring harness is a PITA. If you're considering going this route it may be worth contacting Scenario Dreams to make you a harness with female Molex connectors (1.25mm pitch) soldered to the battery, solenoid, eye, and microswitch leads. This, the UL, and the T2 frames were all about tied as far as being the shortest. It was also probably my favorite frame as comfort goes (very similar to a stock Viking/Excal frame). Jared at Destructive Customs has a few of these laying around and when I talked to him he told me to make an offer when I asked about pricing.

PMR UL Frame: I'll call pricing on these moderate. A decent amount of work has to be done to get one of these to fit. The front area needs to be removed, a new mounting hole added in the trigger frame area and tapped into the body, the rear mounting hole extended, the trigger shaved down along the top/back, and some material removed to allow the solenoid to fit. The last step is tricky as there isn't much extra room and one I had done has a small slit where it was milled too far. A regular UL board will not fit and a UTB is the only one that will (see above for details on this). Again this is one of the shorter frames available and I don't think I need to describe the feel of a UL frame. These are no longer being produced although they can be found both new and used still on eBay and various forums with some searching.

Bluefork T2 Frame: These are moderately expensive (I paid $180), although price varies as they can only be found used now. To mount, the back hole needs to be extended slightly (~1mm) and either a new hole tapped into the body or a extender plate made. The solenoid will fit without any modifications, however underbody milling is necessary to run the eye wires. These come with a custom trigger, take DM4 or Angel LCD grips, and either an '06 Cyborg or Bushmaster board. As mentioned above, these are one of the shortest frames available. One thing to note is that the trigger is a littler farther from the back of the frame than on most others and took a little while to get used to, but didn't end up being a big deal. These are no longer being produced, and Greg has said he will not be producing any more. These are pretty rare, but do occasionally pop up in the b/s/t's although you may have to buy a whole gun to get one.

'07 Ego Frame with KPCS Tray: I don't know the exact pricing on this as I picked it up as part of a package. This was custom made by Ken at KPCS, although it sounds like langless28 measured the contour if someone else is looking to try this. This setup ending up being quite tall, as with most tray setups. Although the actual frame is quite nice, the height threw off the balance of the gun for me. I don't see many people wanting to go this route again.

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Product Quantity Size Type Durometer
2 Liter 3 015 Urethane 70
2 Liter 2 009 Urethane 70
2 Liter 1 010 Urethane 90
2 Liter 1 019 Buna 70
2 Liter 1 017 Buna 70
Sidewinder 1 015 Urethane 70
Sidewinder 4 017 Buna 70
Sidewinder 1 113 Urethane 70
Sidewinder 1 008 Urethane 70
Sidewinder 2 010 Urethane 70
2004 Excalibur Ram 2 010 Quad Buna 70
2004 Excalibur Ram 5 015 Urethane 70
2004 Excalibur Ram 1 010 Urethane 70
2004 Excalibur Hammer 2 010 Quad Buna 70
2004 Excalibur Hammer 1 010 Urethane 70
2004 Excalibur Hammer 4 015 Urethane 70
2004 Viking Hammer 2 010 Quad Buna 70
2004 Viking Hammer 1 010 Urethane 70
2004 Viking Hammer 4 015 Urethane 70
Viking/Excalibur SCM-1 3 015 Buna 70
Viking/Excalibur SCM-1 1 014 Buna 70
Viking/Excalibur SCM-1 1 008 Urethane 70
Viking/Excalibur SCM-1 1 003 Buna 70
Viking/Excalibur SCM-1 2 015 Urethane 70
Merlin SCM-1 2 015 Buna 70
Merlin SCM-1 1 014 Buna 70
Merlin SCM-1 1 008 Urethane 70
Merlin SCM-1 1 003 Buna 70
Merlin SCM-1 1 013 Buna 70
Merlin SCM-2 1 015 Buna 70
Merlin SCM-2 1 014 Buna 70
Merlin SCM-2 1 008 Urethane 70
Merlin SCM-2 1 003 Buna 70
Merlin SCM-2 1 013 Buna 70
2003 Viking Hammer 5 015 Urethane 70
2003 Viking Hammer 1 013 Buna 70
2003 Viking Hammer 2 010 Buna 70
2003 Excalibur Ram 6 015 Urethane 70
2003 Excalibur Ram 2 010 Buna 70
2003 Excalibur Ram 1 013 Buna 70
2003 Excalibur Hammer 5 015 Urethane 70
2003 Excalibur Hammer 1 013 Buna 70
2003 Excalibur Hammer 2 010 Buna 70
Old LPR 3 015 Urethane 70
Old LPR 2 013 Buna 70
Old LPR 2 010 Buna 70
Old LPR 1 008 Buna 70
New LPR 3 015 Urethane 70
New LPR 1 013 Buna 70
New LPR 1 010 Buna 70
New LPR 1 008 Buna 70
New LPR 1 014 Buna 70
New Excalibur Bolt 2 015 Buna 70
Old Excalibur Bolt 2 015 Buna 70
Old Excalibur Bolt 1 013 Buna 70
Spring Holders 1 015 Buna 70
Excalibur Ram Plug Cap 1 015 Buna 70
Excalibur, Mac Solenoids 6 3.3x1 Buna 70
Viking, Mac Solenoids 3 3.3x1 Buna 70
Excalibur, Humphrey Solenoids with Adapter Manifold 6 3.3x1 Buna 70
Excalibur, Humphrey Solenoids with Adapter Manifold 2 3.5x1 Buna 70
Excalibur, Humphrey Solenoids with Adapter Manifold 2 4.7x1 Buna 70
Excalibur, Humphrey Solenoids with Adapter Manifold 2 6x1 Buna 70
Viking, Humphrey Solenoids with Adapter Manifold 3 3.3x1 Buna 70
Viking, Humphrey Solenoids with Adapter Manifold 1 3.5x1 Buna 70
Viking, Humphrey Solenoids with Adapter Manifold 1 4.7x1 Buna 70
Viking, Humphrey Solenoids with Adapter Manifold 1 6x1 Buna 70
Excalibur, Humphrey Solenoids 10 3.3x1 Buna 70
Viking, Humphrey Solenoids 5 3.3x1 Buna 70
Tornado Valve 2 015 Urethane 70