Brass Eagle Stingray II

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

This thread will serve as a guide to modifications available to one's Stingray II.


Background:

Brass Eagle, despite the venom usually associated with their name, was largely responsible for the general populace getting involved with paintball. Until one can walk down to their local Wal-mart and buy something off the shelf, hobbies are largely niche markets. The Brass Eagle Stingray II was that mass produced gun that anyone in the mid 90's could buy. While the "hardcore" were dropping $1000+ on an Angel, etc., your local 16 year old could scrounge up a $100 and go play on the back 40.



Who Should Buy a Brass Eagle Today?

Not you.


Let me clarify.


If you're new to the sport, you're bound to get a bunch of 14 year olds who will lambaste you and attempt to educate you on how crappy your Stingray II is. If you're just there to play paintball and want to avoid this verbal lashing, just join the masses and buy something else. Brass Eagle has also folded so the upgrade parts market takes more effort.


With that said......

........you may want a Brass Eagle if you're this type of person:

-you're that guy running around in Quake 3 gauntleting people
-you're the guy who only pistol butt's and then teabags in Halo
-your ideal car is a sleeper Pinto with a souped up 5.0L under the hood
-you bought an Ati 9500 L-shaped RAM video card, flased Wizzard's BIOS, then and FireGL driver flashed it
-you tweak your PS2/USB hz rate to get a faster look rate in fps game
-you're described as a beaver pincher and it's not because of your moves in the bedroom

Basically, if you like making a statement about yourself standing out from the crowd while saving a couple of bucks, a Stingray II could be up your alley.

But it takes a certain kinda crazy so just go buy a 98 custom and become one of the Borg.










Still reading? Aight, bring on the mods.


General Brass Eagle Stingray II Exploded Diagram

General Brass Eagle Stingray II Owner's Manual

Stock Retail Box (note the early 90's colour scheme)

Back of Stock Retail Box

*side note*
Excellent source of manuals/diagrams:
http://www.paintballtech.org/diagrams/


Credits:
-Beog
-Mcarter Brown
-Doc

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

General Tools You Will Need:

-dremel w/ grinding wheels and/or cut-offs
-Turtlewax (red and green)
-3/8" dowel
-old T-shirt
-emery/sandpaper
-JB Weld/cold weld
-allen keys
-vice grips
-safety glasses
-automatic transmission fluid/air tool oil/dow 33 (choose your poison)
-an anvil/hard brick/block of metal/vise


Penny Mod:

Over time, the spring on your mechanical blow-black will lose some of its tension. Spyders have spring kits to combat/tune this, but that's fairly expensive. You could just vise one end and start tugging with a vice grip on the other, but that's a lot of shear force that could potential snap the spring. Worse, your chance of uniformly stretching the spring is moot IMO so you're still likely to ruin it.

Enter the penny mod.

-disassemble your Stingray II. Start by pulling out the pins around the barrel. If you can't get it out with just your fingers, use an Allen wrench to push them through. Pull-pins are also available for $5 if you'd like to splurge.

-remove the pins on the lower trigger assembly and pull it off. Keep track of which pins go where as one is shorter than the others

-remove the top pin

-unscrew the cocker knob
*just realized 3 attachments is the max so I'll upload them to a pic site and finish this tomorrow*
Root: I changed this to 50 so you should be good to go.

........so, yeah, unscrew the cocker knob

-slide the internal assembly out from the back of the gun

-remove the pins from the back of the internal assembly

-the black metal device is the ASA assembly and and the silver cylinder is the CO2 tube. Remove them from the rest of the assembly.

-the end cap will now be exposed. It has a pin that acts as a spring guide for the back bolt.

-I've placed 3 pennies in a gun that would only chrono at 250 fps. Americans traditionally use dimes, but that's far too much to spend on this gun

Re-assembling will take a bit more effort now as penny shims make the spring compression more difficult. Just place the pieces back together in the reverse order. I'll chrono this gun next match to see if I need to add more pennies.

Basically, the penny mod allows you to increase your velocity and decrease the amount of gas you need to reach said velocity. Other guns have similar mods. Some are kits you can buy while others will need to drill through the pennies to make it work.

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Seer Mod

*to follow*

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

"Quake" trigger

*to follow*

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

detent ball

*to follow*

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Venturi bolt

*to follow*

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

sound dampening / suppression

*to follow*

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

gravity hopper air flow

*to follow*

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

40 cps

*to follow*

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Polishing / Maintenance




Manual:

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/manuals/Bra ... Manual.pdf


Maintenance:

Complete guideline for dis-assembly. ATF (ala AKALMP style Dexron III / Mercron) is recommended for oiling in the manual after washing the parts with warm water and drying them.

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

Multi-barrel Madness

*to follow*

[THE JEW (RaVeN)]

This is really cool:

http://cleedo.com/fastingray.html

Full auto, mechanical only Stingray. It's cool because you can adjust the rate of fire. Mech. blow-backs are the fastest cycling guns (ie. in the 40cps range). Since they don't have a Level 10 bolt equivalent or eyes to stop breaks, they're pretty much too fast to use full-auto. The above design will let you tune your bps.

On a side note, you could probably make a full auto mech. blow-back using the earlier models. They might be inefficient enough to limit you to around 20cps which would be manageable for a Halo or equivalent.