KalNet Message Board

CD jewel case Trigger job

A piece of CD jewel case acts as a spacer for the stock trigger. This Mod gets rid of most if not all(if wanted) all excess movement in the trigger.Not sure if this works on the 99 s/f boards switches. Someone try it and let me know

Step one. Take apart the gripframe. take off the trigger and clean the backside of the trigger, that touches the pushbutton.

Step two. Find an old CD jewel case you dont need anymore. cut a 1/8inch by 1/8inch square piece from it.

Step Three. Make sure the piece you just cut off the CD case fits behind the trigger and doesnt hang off the trigger, if it does cut all excess plastic off until it is alittle smaller then the back of the trigger. Take some Electric Tape and tape it to where you would superglue it to make sure the button still activates with the spacer.

Step four. Superglue the CD jewel case to the back of the trigger. *Note* MAKE SURE you put it on the right spot of the trigger, where the trigger meets the button.*

Step 5. Let Superglue dry, and test. if the trigger is so short it doesnt activate, or too short for your liking, take some sand paper and sand down the excess plastic.

Vertical ASA

This mod is so that you can use an aftermarket regulator or a gas-through grip on your Rainmaker in the vertical position.

Parts needed

1) Automag vertical adaptor w/screw

2) Macroline kit w/2 90º elbows and hose*

*other hoses can be used

3) Loctite or teflon

Tools needed

1) Drill with 1/4" bit

2) corresponding Allen wrenches

Step 1

Take off the grip frame, and disassemble. Place the grip frame, or just the left shell vertically in a vice, or similar place for safe drilling. Then drill the hole in front of the trigger guard with the 1/4" bit so that the Automag vertical screw fits.

Step 2

Optional - shave the edges of either the 'Mag vertical or the grip frame so that they match.

Step 3

Screw the vertical adaptor on, and screw the macroline fittings in, making sure you removed the plug or hose from the rear reg assembly. Reassemble the grip frame and its contents, screw it back on and put in the hose.

Note: If you use an aftermarket regulator, you might consider gutting the stock reg. Which can be found under Modifications Gutting The Stock Regulator


How to gut the stock Regulator

Gutting and Capping the Stock Regulator

- This mod is so you can get rid of the poor stock regulator to keep it from choking the flow from a better aftermarket reg, and enjoy some extra valve volume too. Warning: do this mod ONLY if you have an aftermarket reg or an adjustable air system. Also, this mod is IRREVERSIBLE. Don't do it unless you're serious.

Tools needed

1) Drill press with a 7/16" bit.*

*you can use a hand drill too, but be very careful and precise.

2) Drill (any) with a 1/8" bit

3) Tight thread tap - not sure what size, to tap the bleed hole in the spring cap. I'll get back on this one... and matching setscrew

4) Loctite or epoxy

Step 1

Remove all lines from the rear reg assm. and remove it from the body. Remove the LP regulator from the main regulator and put it somewhere safe. Take off the spring cover and remove contents (springs, giudes) Then take out the internals of the reg. This might be a bit tricky, but it all comes out.

Step 2

Secure the empty reg housing, and use the drill press to bore out 1 3/4" down, measured from the top of the threads. Be careful not to bore any more, so that you still have something for the valve spring to rest on.

Step 3

Now for flow. Turn the reg housing upside down, and use the 1/8 bit to drill 3 more holes into the face, so more gas can pass through and fill the valve chamber. Also, widen the hole to the LP regulator and make it direct. Turn the housing on its back and drill the hole out. The face should look something like this.



Step 4

Clean the shavings out of the reg housing. Loctite the velocity adjustment screw of the spring cover in, and use the [[unknown tap]] and thread the bleed hole on the side. With Loctite, screw the [[other setscrew]] into the hole. Then with Loctite or epoxy, replace the now-airtight spring cover back on the valve housing.

Step 5

After drying, put the LP reg back on, and place the newly gutted reg, now a volumizer, on the gun (remember the cupseal Replace the hoses, and you're ready to go.

Notes: It may be a good idea to use teflon tape for the spring cover the first time so you know that the spring cover is infact, airtight. The operating pressure of a typical Rainmaker is about 400 psi, so make sure your aftermarket reg is set to somewhere about there for the best results.

Also: To use an aftermarket LPR, simply use loctite or teflon on the cover of the LPR, and use a 10/24 (std. bottomline) setscrew with lotcite for the output hole. Run the reg with a 90º elbow off the side, or off of the vertical adaptor.