Oh when tuning turn your LPR all the way in and then set your HPR to 280FPS or what ever you want. Then turn your LPR out till the FPS changes either up or down. Then turn your LPR back 1/4 turn and you will be good to go!
Most recent events (up to 7): 03/25/2009
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Patent Expired for Failure to Pay Maintenance Fees.
Maintenance Fee Reminder Mailed.
Payment of Maintenance Fee, 8th Yr, Small Entity.
Payment of Maintenance Fee, 4th Yr, Small Entity.
--- End of Maintenance History ---
It seems like this is the first part to get destroyed in a DM4/5. Both of the used DM5s I bought were missing this harness, presumably because the owner goobered it up. These are getting harder and harder to find, cost a ton for what they are, and are easy to make.
Parts:
Trigger switch (D2F-L) - I paid $6.45 shipped for three
Mini Micro 4 pin JST connectors - I Paid $4.39 shipped from China for 10 sets including the female connector on the circuit board.
9v battery clip - I paid $.99 shipped from China, but Radio Shack has a decent price.
Shrink tubing - Had some laying around
Soldering iron, solder, flux - Already had these
Total cost: $11.83 for three or $3.94 each including shipping (with parts left over)
Steps
1. Note: you can just splice the wires, but this looks a lot nicer. Remove the black and red wires from the JST connector by lifting up on the tabs on the JST connector.
2. Remove the pins from the wires
3. Solder and clamp the pins to the 9v connector
4. Re-insert pins into JST connector.
5. Trim yellow and white wires. Put shrink tubing over both wires. Solder to the switch.
6. Heat shrink tubing over exposed pins on switch. Finished
How it looks in my DM5
I also recommend having a dwell of 24 ms instead of the stock 17. I find it makes for a smoother, more consistent shot with a minimal sacrifice in efficiency.
PM8 eats batteries, after the dwell is extremely low. Dwell needs to run around 20 and about 24 in the cold.
I like the PM8 more than any other matrix until the DM14. Yes, I think the PM8 is better than the DM13.
Pros:
1) Its LPR is in the front, hidden like a Marq's. This makes the marker less tall than any matrix until the DM14 copied its LPR placement.
2) It's lighter than any DM until I think the DM14, most likely due to LPR placement
3) It's ergonomics are better than any DM due to the notch at the front, being lighter, and less tall than any DM until the DM14. There is an ergonomic con though.
4) It still has eye covers. Everything can be accessed without taking the frame off.
5) It has spring loaded delrin detents that last forever. I like them over the rubber detents of newer Dye markers.
Cons:
1) The pressure used to fire the ball (not cycle the bolt) is somewhat higher than DMs. This makes it sound a bit louder than DMs, but since the bolt cycles at the same pressure due to the lpr, it is just as smooth.
2) Ergonomics. The HPR is very close to the trigger guard. Also the stock trigger is poor for semi and its stock ASA has macroline coming out the sides. Everything is fixable cheaply with aftermarket parts except the reg spacing.
3) It uses eye ribbons instead of eye wires. These function the same but can tear and limit your choice of aftermarket board. Hoever since you never need to take the grip frame off, I dont think tearing is likely. Also many aftermarket boards are ribbon compatible anyway.
4) The stock board cannot set a ROF at decimal increments. It can do 12 bps, but not 12.5.
Overall, I thing the pros outweigh the cons, and some of these cons like 2 and 4 are shared by DMs until you get to newer model years. Then factor in the huge savings for a PM8 and it's a no brainer. There's a reason the PM8 set the standard bolt dimension for years and the DM8's bolt dimensions were dropped. In my opinion, the PM8 is the best bargain in paintball today.
The ring is not supposed to seal completely. You put the bumper o-rings on the can, then the Eigenring. Put the stopper on the threads, and screw the back cap onto the can, with the stopper in between. Put an o-ring on the back cap threads so that when you screw in the engine, the bolt doesn't stick into the breech.
The tolerances are close enough that even though it doesn't seal, it still takes longer for the air to equalize than it does for the gun to shoot the paintball. When the gun is at rest, the pressure is equalized on either side of the ring, and when you shoot, the pressure drops in the firing chamber faster than the air can escape from the other side of the ring, causing it to move and try and keep the pressure equal on either side of the ring. This is what helps keep that initial pressure higher when shooting, because the firing chamber is getting smaller as the air leaves. Once the bolt has finished venting the dump chamber, enough pressure has come out from behind the ring that when the bolt closes and the firing chamber fills again, the pressure difference is swapped. This pushes the ring back again, and because it's not sealed off, it can return to equilibrium in its ready state, waiting for the next shot.
The pm's have a oring on the outside of the ring and just a groove on the inside. My pm8 is the same as the pic
Problem statement:
How can a Proto Matrix 2008 be modified to equal the operating pressure of a Dye matrix 2009-2011 at 285 feet per second.
Objectives:
1. Quieter shot
2. More Perceived Smoothness
3. Be able to call my Pm8 a Pm9.9
Modifications to be Attempted:
1. Tophat Diameter Reduction (detailed further)
2. Bolt back cap trimming (530 mod) http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1277166
3. Having a section of the interior bolt engine sleeve "bored out" (a write up for a later day)
What I am trying to do in pictures:
Mill off the area indicated in red arrows
Measurements and Math
Inner Tophat diameter = .682 inches
Outer Tophat diameter = .775 inches
Top hat area to be milled length=1.04 inches
I am not sure how thin is too thin for this part but I think a reduction of .08 is the deepest I would be willing to go
Area= π x radius squared x height
π x.385 ^2 x 1.04 = 0.48428907392148098688197032810607
-
π x.3475 ^2 x 1.04 = 0.39454162579005456854218876325423
=0.08974744813142641833978156485184
or about .09 cubic inches increase in dump chamber volume
Questions
1. How much of a pressure reduction would there be in the result of this mod? How much when combined with the 530 mod?
2. How thin is too thin for this grade of aluminum? is .1 inches thick enough to retain shape during operation of the marker? to not break during lubing?
3. Does the cost of this modification and the other two modifications exceed the cost of a Dm9? Does the forward LPR offset this cost?
4. Are there any unforeseen advantages/disadvantages to lowering the pressure?
5. If possible, should the modifications be made to a point that lower than 145 psi operation is feasible?
Due to the much needed requests of fellow Dye Owners this is a Thread Dedicated to the Modifying of Dm/4/5/6/C and PM5/6 for better Performance. This thread will be strictly for Bolt Modifications, another thread in production will be about Maintenance, and another about upgrading.
Before Modding you should familiarize yourself with the Matrix bolt, how to dissasseble, and how to clean/lube. Here are direct Links:
cleaning: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php? ... did=597233
First Mod
Top Hat Mod:For Dm4/5/6/C and PM5/6
The Top hat Mod-Fits all Stock Top hats in all Style Matrix Markers.
How:
First: remove the Top hat from the Bolt assembly. Once removed wipe all lube away, for this could cause the tape/hose to come off inside the marker.
Second: You have 2 options here. The first, and where this mod received its name, is electrical tape. You wrap electrical tape around the outside of the top hat. The set amount is anywhere between 5-7 layers, it should take up 1/2 the distance of the wall. The second option is hosing/tubing. The Hosing is more reliable than tape and a set size has been determined, which is 5/8" Inner Diameter x 3/4" Outer Diameter, again it should take up 1/2 the distance to the wall.
Courtesy of Lilman:
Third: once the tape/tubing is applied reassemble the bolt kit and return it to the marker.
Finally: Gas the marker up and fire. If drop off is noticed at first or in a string of shots, remove a layer of tape, and repeat till the drop off is no longer a problem.
REVIEWS:
Quote:
Originally Posted by hyper1
after the mod, increase the input pressure to compensate for the decreased space in the chamber. By increasing the input pressure it will also allow you to lower your dwell (higher input pressure = lower dwell time/the amount of time the solenoid remains open/the amount of time the bolt remains in the forward position). If this mod is done correctly you will also be able to lower your LPR setting (bolt pressure) to reduce the amount of recoil.
Please be aware that the tophat mod performs best when approx 1/2 the wall space on the tophat is taken up with the mod (that's why 5-7 wraps of electrical tape or 5/8" ID x 3/4" OD tubing). Too much tape or tubing will result in drop off issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilman
I had the hpr roughly at 4 turns out. Had my lpr pressure around 80 psi (1/2 turn past factory which is 70psi). My dwell at at 10ms. For the efficiency test I had very very old paint with dimples, and a decent paint to barrel match. For tuning I used newer paint, when I started using the old paint my fps dropped 30fps. I turned up my lpr and hpr up a little to acheive my 297fps avg.
On a leaking 45/2500 fill I got a full bag (cruddy paint @ fps of 297). I still had 500-600psi left in my tank. This is about 100-150 more than I was getting before .
LINKS:
Lilmans Tophat Mod Thread
Pros:
The Top hat Mod Fills the Area in what is called the Dump Chamber.
By decreasing the Amount of space used in the dump chamber one gains better efficiency.
Cons:
If the top hat mod is not done correctly one will experience first shot drop off. The simple solution to this is described in the how-to
Second Mod
530 Mod:For Dm4/5/6/C and PM5/6
The 530 mod takes out two of the pillars in the rear plug of the bolt assembly. By doing so air is allowed to move throughout the gun with more ease. Remember this is true because in understandable terms the quickest route from A to B is a straight line.
How:
First: on the back plug mark which side is top and which is bottom, this will relate to which bars to remove.
Then: remove the rear plug from the bolt assembly.
Now: notice that your marks line up with two pillars; these are the two pillars you will remove.
Then: Take a cutting bit on a dremel and remove these two opposing bars.
File down the ends so that you have less chance cutting yourself/orings
After:
Finally: As always when working on your bolt, clean it off well after you’re done, relube, and put it back together.
Pros:
The marker gains better efficiency, one is able to set pressures lower/higher to his or her liking.
Cons:
Doing this wrong can result in having to purchase a new rear plug ($50). So pay attention.
Super Insane Efficiency Mod:
ONLY WORKS ON DM4/5/6/C
NO PROTO MARKERS
THIS MOD HAS NOT BEEN PROVEN, INFACT IT STILL HAS YET TO BE SHOWN TO WORK CORRECTLY.
The marker gains better efficiency and the user can adjust the LPR, HPR, and Dwell to lower settings.
How:
First: Taking electrical tape, and a lot of it, you wrap in front of the second wall from the back of the rear plug.
*note the tape will need to be cut so it DOES NOT reach the “cage part” of the rear plug.
Wrap until the top of the top of the wall is reached.
Next: Clean, relube, replace.
Now according to the originator, ovenmitt, he is running his marker at:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ovenmitt
I have my dwell at 10, lpr 2 turns out, hpr is set at 155 psi for 290 fps, and heres the killer, im getting over a case of paint off 68/4500, i got 2200 shots off a full fill. Ill have some pics up tonight to show how i did it.
LINKS:
Ovenmitt's Insane Mod Thread
Pros:
According to ovenmitt, the marker is getting over a case per 68/45.
Cons:
Not a lot of review, and a lot of people not experiencing the efficiency gain. Good news is that it isn’t permanent, you can remove the tape…No cutting involved.
Beer Can Mod:For Dm4/5/6/C and PM5/6
The user drills 4 more holes into the front of the beer can, allowing more air flow.
Also a Ghetto Bonebrake.
How:
First: Remove the beer can from bolt assembly.
Second: Simple measure a rough center between each front laying hole in your beer can.
Third: Mark each “new hole” and make sure the drill bit is the same circumference as the previous.
Then: Drill out the holes. Then the track that runs around the the beer can act as a road for air to travel on. Those "roads" need to merge to the new holes.
Finally: Make sure that you have no burrs or rough spots from drilling.
Clean, Relube, Replace
Pros:
Better Air Flow, better efficiency.
Cons:
Can destroy your beer can if done wrong.
ONLY FOR EXPERIENCED DRILLERS.
TheBetterOne's Bolt Mod For Evolve Kits!
TheBetterOne Has Modded The Lucky & Orange Bolts to Fit the X95 Evolve Kit.
Pics:
Quote:
Originally Posted by THEBETTERONE
efficiency is still being tested, with dow 33 its at about 925-50 balls per 68/3000 fill, I relubed with hater sauce, haven't re-tested yet.
If anyone wants instructions or info they can PM me.
thanks.
This Mod Requires alot of Patience, skill, and machinery. Be warned that you will screw your bolt if you Try this without any of those three.
This a rough start, And help in Mistakes i've made/Links to previous threads to give exact Numbers ppl are achieving will help in speed of getting this done...
Thanks for your patience.
SK
__________________
How many shims does the Hyper2 have?
ANSWER: The Hyper2 has 9 shims.
=============
What is the shim stack order on a Hyper2?
ANSWER:
||
||)()()()()= total of 9 shims.
||
More info:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1552646
=============
How many shims does the Hyper3 have?
ANSWER: It depends on what DM/PM marker you have.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DYE_EWOK View Post
The Hyper3 that comes on a DM8 will have 12 shims.
The Hyper3 that comes on a M8 will have 14 shims.
The Hyper3 that is made for the older guns like a DM7, DM6, M7, M6, etc.. have 13 shims.
=============
What is the shim stack order on a Proto M8 Hyper3?
ANSWER:
||
||()()()()()()()= total of 14 shims.
||
Source:
Quote:
Originally Posted by DYE_EWOK View Post
hyper3 on a m8 shims should be ()()()()()()() total of 14.
I do believe that some people are making a bigger deal out of this than there needs to be
=============
What is the shim stack order on a DM8 Hyper3?
ANSWER: Based on other examples from DYE_EWOK, I presume the shim stack for the DM8 hyper3 would be the following:
||
||()()()()()()= total of 12 shims.
||
=============
What is the shim stack order on a DM7, DM6, M7, M6, M5 Hyper3?
ANSWER: Based on other examples from Hyper2, I presume the shim stack for the standard threaded hyper3 would be the following:
||
||)()()()()()()= total of 13 shims.
||
=============
How many shims does the Proto M8, DM8, DM9 LPR have?
ANSWER: You should have 11 shims.
=============
What is the shim stack order on a Proto M8, DM8, and DM9 LPR?
ANSWER:
||
||)()()()()()= total of 11 shims.
||
Source:
Quote:
Originally Posted by DYE_EWOK View Post
Lpr Body ()()()()()(|piston
Private message from DYE_EWOK on the shim stack pictured in manual:
Quote:
Originally Posted by DYE_EWOK
The picture in the manual with the LPR, the shims are backwards, so it’s a typo in the manual. Flip the shim stack – where the bigger shims face or hit against the body of the lpr assembly and the smaller shims face or hit against the base of the piston.
Resolution: so I ended up changing the 013 sleeve rings to 014, the 012 piston ring to 013 and the 006 buna ring to a 006N. Still leaked but not as bad, then screwed on the LPR cover cap, and leak is gone. Guess it puts enough pressure on the LPR to make the leak stop