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The LCD, IR3 and Speed frames will bolt right on. The 05 Speed, G7 and G7 Fly/06 Speed frames will fit with some modification (you need to remove some material from the front of the frame). The A1 frame would fit with a little effort, but you'd also need an A1 board and modified eye system (which I could do for you).

I usually use these setting for magno flys.

HPR: 180 psi
LPR: 55 psi

dwell between 5.5 and 6.5 depending on fragility of the paint and weather.

That should get you close to a case out of a 68/4500.

If you can get a hold of a STR ram then it might be worth the upgrade. The standard Magno rams had issues with longevity. Instead of buying a standard Magno ram I'd recommend sending in your stock ram to www.angel-verse.com for the rebuildable mod.

Angel Charger Specs
Since replacement chargers are no longer available anymore, a lot of people have been asking for the specs on the stock charger so they can try to find suitable replacements. I took a multi-meter to my stock Angel LCD charger and my stock A4 charger to get the output specs.

NOTE: The charger from the LCD is identical to the charger for the IR3 and they can be used interchangeably. The charger for the A4 and up is universally interchangeable and can be used to charge all of the Angel batteries except for the LED, including the older 6 volt LCD and IR3 batteries.

Both chargers were plugged into a 12v cigarette lighter to wall-outlet adapter. Results:

LCD Charger:

Input from wall adapter: 16.96 volts

Output from charger: 15.96 volts, 1.41 amps

A4/Flex Charger:

Input from wall adapter: 16.96 volts

Output from charger: 14.95 volts, .632 amps (632 milliamps)

The barrel connector on the charger is a 3.5mm outside diameter size H coaxial DC power plug. The outside sleeve is positive, the inside sleeve is ground (note that this is backwards from most common configurations).

Conclusion:

A NiMH charger rated for a battery voltage range of at least 4.8 volts; with an actual output of 12 volts and at least 600 milliamps; with a 3.5mm OD size H coaxial DC power plug connector; and with positive on the outside sleeve and ground on the inside sleeve should be suitable for charging any Angel battery except the LED (LCD/IR3/Speed/A4/A4 Fly/G7/G7 Fly). You can commonly find these types of battery chargers at RC shops and hobby shops. It's important to make sure that any charger you buy is designed for NiMH batteries. The Angel circuit board has a cut-off circuit for charging, so it is technically possible to use a "dumb" charger or a plain DC adapter. However, it is a good idea to use a "smart" charger with its own cut-off circuitry rated for at least 4.8 volts so that it will not over-charge or damage your battery.

Additional Information:

Quote:
Originally Posted by phantom01231
The board itself (for the marker) has a cut off circuit. Now the intelli charger I think has a cut off/ trickle charge function. Ill have to try and dig out the schematic to check and see. Regardless of the function of the Marker board it is always smart to use a smart charger with trickle and or a cut off function. That goes double for these older boards that love to crap out. If sourcing a charger to replace an old angel charger it is suggested that you use a plug that fits the socket correctly as the socket is a switch as well.

The following chargers would be suitable in terms of their specs, but do not include the correct size H coaxial DC power plug connector for the Angel circuit board (you can add this connector yourself). The Tenergy Smart Universal Charger has been confirmed to work:

Tenergy Smart Universal Charger for NiMH/NiCD Battery Packs: 2.4V - 7.2V

4.8V - 10.8V NiMh & NiCD Battery Pack Smart Charger

2.4V - 7.2V NiMH & NiCD Battery Pack Smart Charger

DISCLAIMER:

Your mileage may vary. Use this information at your own risk. Using an incorrect charger can cause damage to your battery and/or circuit board, including leaking/exploding/burning batteries that may cause you physical harm. Use your brain.

The board itself (for the marker) has a cut off circuit. Now the intelli charger I think has a cut off/ trickle charge function. Ill have to try and dig out the schematic to check and see. Regardless of the function of the Marker board it is always smart to use a smart charger with trickle and or a cut off function. That goes double for these older boards that love to crap out. If sourcing a charger to replace an old angel charger it is suggested that you use a plug that fits the socket correctly as the socket is a switch as well.

The D-Lite valve and valve stem, STR ram and Booster 2 bolt will net you some gains in terms of efficiency and reliability compared to the stock Magno parts. If you need PSP 3 shot you might want to look into an aftermarket or Mojo board. Other than that. The stock barrel kits tend to run large, so having one of the back bored for Freak inserts or picking up a smaller bore might be in your interest, depending on what kind of paint you shoot. None of these are really "must have" upgrades, but ones you might want to consider depending on what you want out of the gun.

The peak for me was my 2007 A1 which has been upgraded with WDP/APS parts to include full Magno internals, Boost2 bolt, D-Lite cupseal, and Mojo board. Operating pressure is rock bottom, and it shoots well over a case on a 68/45.

Technically some would say the A1 Fly (slightly different body, some of the aforementioned parts included) but it's essentially the same marker. Others would point to the Fly SB (all of the aforementioned parts, no rotobreech) but it functions the same, and I don't even count that as an Angel - it also wasn't in production for long.

HP-a High Pressure tank, usually running off of 800 psi give or take
LP-a Low Pressure tank, usually running off of 400 psi give or take

Here is a list of HP guns-
LED
LCD
IR3

Here is a list of LP guns-
03/04 SPEED
A4
A4 FLY
05 SPEED
G7
G7 FLY
06 SPEED
ANGEL ONE

LP suggested, but may run fine on HP-
Angel One Fly

With that being said, HP guns take Hp tanks and LP guns take LP tanks. If you have a LP gun and run HP on it, you run the chance of it missing up orings, shims, the poppit, and many other things, so its best not to run HP on a LP gun. Also, you may not be able to get the velocity under 300 FPS. With that being said though, you may use a HP tank on these guns-G7,G7 fly, 06 speed, A1-If you do though, the consistancy will NOT be as great as with a LP tank.

The 05 SPEED and all the guns above the 05 SPEED(G7,G7 FLY,06 SPEED, ANGEL ONE) have a different reg and are supposed to let you use HP on them. Some of the 05 SPEED regs can not handle it and some can. I would go out and test your gun and see if you can get your velocity under 300 FPS so you do not have to do the following--

If you have a LP gun and have a HP tank you can do several things. One of which is get a CP reg or any reg that can accept a HP tank; you can also change the minireg to accept HP (I will give a detail example of how to at the bottom of this post); you can also ask the company who made your tank reg if they can make it LP.

If you have a HP tank you can modify the mini reg to lower the spring stack pressure so you may adjust the gun below 300 fps.

1) remove all pressure to the gun.
2) remove the mini reg from the gun by unscrewing it counter clockwise
3) look into the top of the mini reg and locate the circle 'c clip'
4) with a circlip pliers remove the circlip
5)carefuly turn the mini reg over and tap it on a padded surface
6) you will note that there are cuped washers stacked on top of each other they look like this: )()()(
7)remove 1 of the cuped washers (springs) from the mini reg stack
reassemble in reverse order and re chrony

Of course, it is always better to just go out and get a LP tank or see if you can change the tank reg to LP before you do any mods to your reg.

I hope that helps everyone asking questions on thier tank/angel. If anyone else has something to add, because Im sure I missed something, let me know and I will edit it.

-Josh

Edit - The Angel One Fly seems to be a mixed bag. Some people have loads of trouble trying to run HP tanks, and have to do the minireg mod. Some people run their HP tanks just fine with no modifications. Best I can say is if you've got one coming, or plan to buy a Fly, try your HP tank. If it doesn't work, either mod the reg, or swap your tank reg for an LP model. (PS)

Would 180 psi be a better starting point or 200psi, to give me the max efficiency level ? And when is a good time to start working the dwell down to the 5.5 level? Or just keep it set a 6.5 and shred?

180 is fine - that's closer to the pressure you'll probably end up running. If you're running stock Magno internals and a non-Booster bolt, leave your dwell at 6.5 ms. If you've running a Booster bolt and the latest D-Lite upgrades you can lower it to 5.5 ms right out the gate.