KalNet Message Board

Halfblock-specific parts:

* Bolt
* Backblock/sled/shuttle
* Slotted hammer
* Bolt pin

Drg's turtle dimensions*

* Bolt length ~3.050"
* Hammer slot ~.122" deep and ~.750 long from face
* Top tube length ~3.205"
* Backblock ~.975 in. wide and ~.750 in thick (front to back)
* Bottom tube slot ~.22" wide, begins ~0.09" behind top tube, ~1.55" long

* As measured by Drg, use at your own risk

Just get a sidewinder SST or regular sidewinder, or even a macdev gladiator (~$49 new on ebay) for your reg. Those are going to perform nearly as well as the 2liter for a good amount less $$. The other thing to keep in mind is the 2liter takes a fitting in the side, whereas the sidewinder rotates near the bottom and the gladiator takes a direct input through the bottom of the reg.

Belsales 3way definitely is a good choice... Rams are hard. Palmer no longer sells rams (sold out and not building more), but they were the best bang for the buck. You can find belsales rams online new still, which are excellent. Otherwise, shop around in the forums for MPP/Freeflow rams, or Palmers used in good condition.

LPRs, in my order of preference:
- AKA SCM3
- Palmers Rock of whatever variant
- Belsales
- Shocktech FGP

In order of cost that is something like: Belsales, AKA, Palmers, Shocktech.

That should be a hell of a start. Your other option is to find a shocktech full front-end kit -- their pneus are quite good.

You wouldn't need a QEV at all. STO rams can cycle ~18 BPS IIRC. You're not going to be shooting that fast on a mech cocker, I can assure you.

Yup. I've said it before and I'll say it again. The best ram for your mech cocker is whatever one you have right now thats not leaking.

I really feel like the AKA Tornado is the best cocker valve out there if money is not an issue. The Shocktech rat 3:16 being the best for price.

On ram..find the biggest chamber size on a rebuldable that you can find for the best price. Throw a $5 clippard QEV on the front and voila'...you have the best ram.

Palmers on the regs, hands down, simply for the ability to shoot CO2 or HPA and thier consistancy as well as looks on a cocker.

Personally I have always like the bomb three way, or a quickswitch from Palmer....heck that whole palmers front block setup is pretty darn sweet for the price and ease of installation.

Bolt, I like either the Lightning with the AKA valve, or a WGP venturi. The Shocktech (once again) isn't "bad", but only cause it is light.

.02

The stock Orracle pneumatics are some of the best WGP had.

Best bang for the buck to me is QEV's, Delrin bolt, new pneumatic hose, and a Maddman Spring Kit.

Put a set of QEV's on it, and run some new hose while you are at it because I'm willing to bet the stuff on it is drier then 80 year old va...you get the idea... Then take the blue main spring from the maddman spring kit and replace the stock one. Pop in your new bolt, and tune it.

Only one small issue is sitting in the back of my head right now. Some of the rams used on Autocockers have two different thread sizes used on them. The presents a problem because the threads for the QEV fit the big side, but not the small side. If you have one of these rams, then you need a new ram as well to take full advantage of QEV's.

Do these things, and you should have a marker that will shoot 20-24BPS without breaking the bank.

I had the following specs up to 24BPS with a Q-Loader (Goldwaved...)

2003 Black Magic
Racegun Frame
Original Back Block
Eclipse Dart Bolt/Pin
Original Valve
Shocktech PHAT Hammer
Maddman spring kit (Blue/Blue)
CP Regulator
44 Magnum RAM
Eclipse QEV's
Tickler LPR
My Mojo

That was entirely for exhibition though. To do this required the LPR be jacked up higher then I prefer (I.E.: If it blows a line, back it up a tiny bit and that is what I was running...), and the fact that I was using a Q-Loader should give you a idea of the timing I was running. I run the LPR at a much lower setting, and my timing is much more 'laxed for normal use. Gives me a butter smooth shooting marker that I can't out shoot...

If it is working now bomb around with it and see if you even like autocockers.

List for me would be

LPR

HPR

4 way

Trigger frame

I like QEV's on my rams quite a bit even though many would say it's unnecessary for a mech cocker.

I cant believe I'm saying this but if you want a walkable mech.

Get a mag

Cockers are alot of fun because they let you tune about every single aspect to the guns feel and performance. If the triggers to stiff, change springs or a 3-way. Chopping paint, adjust the timing a bit. etc.

I'd play with it and be observant of things that feel good, feel bad and then report back here and we'll help you get some parts that'll smooth up the feel and make a faster more reliable cocker. Play with it on the couch watching TV, cycle it, yank the trigger, move all the parts and make notes how everything feels.

For a bone stocker, and adjustable LPR and a HPR are must on my list, everything else is personal preference.

My suggestion is to get an externally adjustable HPR, which you said you have already done.
Get a barrel kit so that you can bore match your paint to avoid rollouts.

Shoot the marker for several weeks and things that "need" to be changed will become obvious to you. I personally like to change the LPR to something adjustable and with better flow than the stock one.
I find that the stock 3 way and the stock ram function well enough, add a QEV to the front of the ram. Time the marker a little closer, and set your sear lug right, and you would be suprized. The stock hinge frame had set screws for travel already, so you time it close and set those correctly and you have a nice short pull....walkable, no. You will need some manner of electronic or pneumatic frame for that.

The only other thing I would really recommend if you decide to keep it would be to have it milled to accept a clamping feedneck, and possibly put in a better bolt, just for weight's sake.

GL with your new toy.

Belsales Twister Kit
The Twister Kit from Belsales/Smart Parts is an external adjustment kit for the Sledgehammer. It replaces the Sledge's front cap and has a small adjustment knob in front. A note: it adjusts in the exact opposite manner from other adjustable regulators; screwing it out turns the pressure up and screwing it in turns it down. I had this kit on my Evolution Minicocker for a long while and it worked perfectly. The only caveat is that it doesn't adjust over as large a range as the Rock does. Very large pressure changes still require disassembly of the regulator and adjustment of its internal nut. If you have a Sledgehammer on your 'cocker and would like to be able to adjust the pneumatics' pressure, this is a less expensive way to go than replacing the entire regulator with a Rock or Jackhammer. I've completed an article for PCRI about this kit.