KalNet Message Board

Marker does not shoot

1. Is the tank empty? Yes No

Solution: Fill Tank. Gun still does not shoot

2. Is regulator nut turned in far enough? Yes No

Solution: Turn nut in until marker shoots or vents out back. Gun still does not shoot

3. Is air supply obstructed? Yes No

Solution: Clear obstructions. Gun still does not shoot

4. Is bolt sticking? Yes No

Solution: Install next size longer power tube spacer. If bolt still sticks, repeat until bolt does not stick. Gun still does not shoot

5. Does trigger have pressure and spring back when pulled? Yes No

Solution: Field strip the gun and check the bolt for foreign objects/obstructions. Gun still does not shoot

6. Check for proper gap between:
a. Trigger and rod (before fire gap) - 1/16"
b. Trigger and frame (after fire gap) - 1/16"

7. Are these correct? Yes No

Solution: Adjust trigger rod to proper gap Gun still does not shoot

Solution: Call Airgun Designs Technical Support.



Shootdown

If you're using CO2 System

If you're using Compressed Air or N2 System

(co2) 1. Make sure tank valve/pin valve is fully open. Next

(co2) 2. Check for line restrictions such as crushed/clogged filter, kinked hose, etc. Next

(co2) 3. Ensure liquid CO2 is not getting into the valve Next

(air) 1. Is the tank valve fully open and output pressure set to 800 psi? Next

(air) 2. Is the supply tank filled to over 800 psi? Next

(co2/air) a. "Short Stroking" the trigger may cause shootdown. Be sure the trigger is allowed to travel completely forward after each shot. Next

(co2/air) b. Check for proper gap between:
Trigger and rod (before fire gap) - 1/16"
Trigger and frame (after fire gap) - 1/16"
Adjust trigger rod to proper gap if necessary. Next

Call Airgun Designs Technical Support.



Erratic Velocity

1. First shot in a string of shots hot:
Replace Regulator Seat. Next
2. Velocity gradually drops off:
Possibly regulator nut backing out. Make visual mark on regulator nut and check how far it has backed out after play. Install 3-piece Tournament Cap. Next
3. Reg. Piston/Piston O-Ring Problem:
Replace Reg. Piston o-ring and apply (common automotive) grease to o-ring and spring pack. Next
4. Spring Pack Binding:
Disconnect air source, screw regulator nut inward until it stops; then back out the regulator nut until it is loose again, reattach air source and re-chrono the gun. Next
5. If none of the above solves the problem:
Call Airgun Designs Technical Support.

Pretty sure the holes line up. You can get LCD frames pretty cheap on the bay too. If you're thinking about using one for a pneumag or electro conversion project though, it won't work. The left side of Angel frames are cut out. There's no where to mount an actuator or noid.

the mounting holes for the grip frame line up with the body holes for the LCD, however the LCD board does not fit in the IR3 grip frame without some internal modifications to the grip frame, with the right tools, and some time it can be done......you still need IR3 buttons tho

Don't believe a blue led display screen is sold for the emag. Maybe at one time there was. Your choices are green, yellow, orange and red.
Digikey has them & Arrow Electronics has them

http://www.digikey.com/
http://www.arrownac.com/
Part #'s
HCMS-2912 for Red
HCMS-2911 for Yellow
HCMS-2913 for Green
HCMS-2914 for Orange

For anyone that might be interested in changing their Emag LED display color thanks to Shades I have done some more research and come up with a couple of places to by them from and their part numbers

Digikey has them at $31.26
Arrow Electronics has them for $31.15
The part numbers are
HCMS-2912 for Red
HCMS-2911 for Yellow
HCMS-2913 for Green
HCMS-2914 for Orange

These places you can buy just one and replace it with ease

^ Do not use ion threaded feednecks in place of Angel threads. The ion and Angel threads are close, but are still different, and you will end up cross threading, or stripping the threads. Beware.
The difference is extremely slight, due to the differences in the metric/imperial measurement systems. While there is some risk of cross-threading, it is very minimal considering the small amount of threading on these feednecks. This is especially true on the Ion-threaded Qloader adapters.

But I do agree that if there is an Angel-threaded equivalent, it's preferred.

The back of the sear that contacts the on/off pin usually has some cutting marks in it. If you smooth those out and polish, they are worth about 0.005", which is like shortening your on/off pin by that much. The pins don't always need polishing at the bottom, but you can get both of them nice and glassy and add a touch of oil or grease. I lube the sear a little at the pin and clevis hinge also.

Hey, yall, just an update.
I did all of the above, basically. I lightly sanded and polished the sear axle and its hole, the points where the sear and the on/off pin meet, and the sides of the sear where it rubs up against the rail. I hit all of them with a bit of tri-flow and got the trigger and it's pin as well.

It shoots WAY lighter and smoother now. Thanks a bunch.

I can't find my HES data sheets, but I think the pinout is:

Pin 1 = power
Pin 2 = ground
Pin 3 = switched output


Emag pinouts (not fully complete)

Atmel AT90S2313-4SC with connection points labled
Pin Name Connection
1 RESET CN4 pin 1
2 (RXD) PD0 Stamp pin 7
3 (TXD) PD1 Stamp pin 8
4 XTAL2
5 XTAL1
6 (INT0) PD2 Trigger input; stamp pin 9
7 (INT1) PD3 To MOSFET U3 (solenoid)
8 (T0) PD4 Switch PB2, stamp pin 10
9 (T1) PD5 Switch PB1, stamp pin 11
10 GND
11 PD6 (ICP) HCMS CE
12 PB0 (AIN0)
13 PB1 (AIN1)
14 PB2 HCMS clock
15 PB3 (OC1) HCMS data in
16 PB4 HCMS RS
17 PB5 (MOSI) CN4 pin 4
18 PB6 (MISO) CN4 pin 3
19 PB7 (SCK) CN4 pin 2 (burst jumper)
20 Vcc


CN4 pin 1 RESET
CN4 pin 2 SCK
CN4 pin 3 MISO
CN4 pin 4 MOSI
CN4 pin 5 GND

CN2 pin 1
CN2 pin 2
CN2 pin 3 Vcc

Features: 1. Replica over 50 long. Complete gun weighs over 30 pounds! 2. Comes with custom electronic trigger that can fire in semi-auto 3 shot burst and full auto modes. 3. Comes with Smart Parts All-American barrel. 4. Comes with Q-Loader automatic paintball feed system. Comes with two Q pods and pod loader hopper. 5. The replica is constructed using a brand-new Airgun Designs Automag RT Pro paintgun. 6. Automag RT Pro includes x-valve level 10 anti-chop bolt and ultra-light trigger pull kit. This package comes with: Tool Kit Airgun Designs owners manual and video tape. Disassembly instructions Each gun is made to order. Delivery time is approximately four weeks after receipt of order.

An inline reg will add a third regulator to the air line. Each regulator reduces the air flow a bit. One of the requirements for a sustainable reactive trigger is air flow, so an additional regulator will reduce the ability to be reactive. Each regulator reduces the high volume usable air pressure by about 200psi. So, even if you have a 1100psi tank output, you will only have about 900psi of usable pressure which is only slightly higher than a regular non-adjustable tank.

The best way to help make your trigger controllable and reactive would be to purchase a 0.740" on-off pin which is 0.010" shorter than a standard 0.750" pin. Install the quad emag oring instead of the urethane oring for the small top on-off oring. This quad buna oring has less friction than the urethane oring but has a lower sealing point which is why you need the shorter on-off pin. If you want to adjust the amount of reactivity, add a shim or two between the on-off halves to simulate an even shorter pin.

A short gold bolt spring will reduce your chamber pressure used when shooting at the desired velocity. This will increase the pressure differential between the valve input and the chamber and enhance the reactive effect.

Old School Automag mod which I haven't seen in a while. Spring on the back of the sear hinge to pull it forward and consistantly reset the sear.

I would imagine this helps with pressure problems (low tank?) which your on off pin might not reset all the way? Correct me on this if I'm totally off you guys?

I remember my friends had this mod on there mags when I started playing (I haven't been playing that long!).

This came on an Automag from a Santa Cruz area player who I think played on the wizards.