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Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:37 pm
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
X-mag replacement ACE and break-beam eye upgrades:

Luke makes aftermarket triggers including one just like the tunablade, I think they run 40 or 50 bucks. Also there are replacement boards being made on AO by paintball4me


Depending on the level of AGD-ness that you want to maintain, you can put in other boards and solenoids to run on a 9v battery, but it'll take a few more mod's and tuning to do that.

But, running it with a stock board and battery is fine. My recommendation is that you will want to upgrade the software (XMOD) before you upgrade your trigger. Also, is the ACE board functioning or not? It is used for on/off functions as well as anti-chop (hence ACE). P8nt also has a replacement ACE board and developed a BB eye system for Xmags.


http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/air- ... ost2511899

ACE specs for the Xmag so you can buy a replacement:
http://haveblue.org/tech/e-mag/eesmr1-1.pdf

OMCRON in Scarborough has them.

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 9:32 pm
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
Spring lengths:

To be the one that chips in, spring colors are grey for the long, red for the middle and gold for the short/original.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/2533337-post8.html

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:34 pm
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
Overview of the Ninja SHP reg for an RT 'mag:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZJhX7CFaPk

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 5:37 pm
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
Step 1, make sure the foamie and the metal bolt surface are both clean. Very clean.

Step 2, trim off the flared edges ("wings") of the foamie with an exacto knife to reduce the surface that might get caught by air, which causes the foamie to get shot out easier.

Step 3, dampen the bottom of the foamie with water.

Step 3, apply a very thin film of the white Gorilla Glue to the dampened side of the foamie. I use a toothpick to make a nice even, thin layer.

Step 4, stick the glue side on the metal surface of the bolt.

Step 5, stick a 3/4" disc neodymium magnet on top of the bolt to clamp the foamie in place. Let it sit 24 hours.


http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/air- ... ost2538147

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:12 pm
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
i measured the screws for both and the classic/SS front frame screw is 3/4" and the RT/ULE front frame screw is 7/8" if that helps?

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/air- ... ost2544778

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 8:05 am
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
ULT Guide:

First of all, this is a thread dedicated to the installation, tuning and operation of the Ultra Light Trigger (ULT) for AGD products. This can be purchased at http://www.store.airgun.com

This on/off assembly will fit and is recommended for the following:

X-Valves
Aluminum RT-Pro Valves

This on/off assembly can fit but is NOT recommended for the following:

E-Mags w/ double o-ring top
Micro E-Mags
MiniMag AIR Valves
68Automag Valves
Classic Automag Valves
HyperMags
SmartMags

This on/off assembly will NOT fit the following:

Stainless Steel RT-Pro Valves
Retro Valves
E-Mags w/ single o-ring top
Original RTs w/ Banjo Bolt valve

Here are some pictures of the on/off hole in various valves to show the difference between single o-ring and double o-ring.

E-Mag Valve with double o-rings. (Note the black quad o-ring which is special to the E-Mag only)



Retro Valve with single o-ring. This valve will NOT accept the ULT.



X-Valve. All of these valves have double o-rings and they are now coming installed on new RT-Pros. Both o-rings are removed from the valve, but you can see that the bottom does not have a step in it like Retro Valve. The gray spot at the bottom is just an unanodized spot.



Here is the Classic AIR valve. The same valve used in Automags, Minimags, etc. This valve has always and will always be a double o-ring valve and will accept the ULT, but it is not recommended for use in the this valve. It does not recharge fast enough and thus it is too easy to short stroke.



Sorry about the valve picture quality. It's hard to get in close and get a sharp picture and get enough light on it to show the inside of the on/off without making too much glare.

ULT Exploded Parts View



From left to right:

On/Off top o-ring (Same o-ring as on/off center o-ring for RT on/off assembly)

On/Off top w/ o-ring. (O-ring is same as Level 7 PT o-ring and on/off top outer o-ring in double o-ring valves.)

On/Off center o-ring. (New part for ULT. Rubber o-ring, not urethane. Very small, do not lose.)

Shims for adjusting sealing point of on/off top o-ring. (Same dimensions as Level 10 shims, but .005" thick instead of .010")

On/Off bottom w/ o-ring. (Same o-ring as on/off top outer o-ring)

On/Off pin support. (Install after on/off assembly is screwed together. Place grease around outside before inserting into on/off bottom to keep from falling out.)

On/Off Pin. (Very fragile. Take special care when installing. Install so larger diameter head is at top of on/off assembly.)

Videos

These are some videos of me shooting the ULT on my XRTP. This is pretty much the first time I got out and shot the thing, so I'm pretty slow. I am wearing safety glasses, if you can't tell. Sorry about the extra time in the video of me turning on and off the camera. I was the only one around when I took these videos. Also, sorry about the plane flying overhead in the first video. Didn't even notice it was there until after I filmed the clip. At least I can fan the trigger now...

Right click on the links and save them to your computer.

http://www.automags.org/~BlackVCG/DCP_0942.MOV

http://www.automags.org/~BlackVCG/DCP_0006.MOV

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... ULT-Thread

Yep, I'm not the specialist but 850 PSI is low to get a regular R/T's but you should have some kind of "3 shot burst" with the ULT installed.

Try to add shims on the ULT ON/OFF to reach the R/T's effect. (if you don't have ULT shims, note: 1 LVL10 shim = 2 ULT shims)

But to reach the stable "FULL AUTO", you will need 950 PSI or more.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/air- ... ost2658584

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:15 am
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
Will my valve take a ULT?

Emag:

Depending on the emag valve you have, it may not accept the ULT anyway. Does your emag valve use two orings above the on-off top or just one? If your valve has the oring cavity that holds just a single on-off top oring, then you can't use the ULT.

As mentioned, the standard retro on-off assembly works best for reactivity.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... emag-valve


How to make Emag work with ULT:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... id=2350126



RT Pro:

Maybe. Sometimes it needs to be milled:
http://www.automags.org/forums/printthread.php?t=253106



RT Classic:
No.



Classic/Minimag:
Yes, but only advisable if running a Hyperframe.




The big ULT Thread:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... ULT-Thread

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:22 pm
by THE JEW (RaVeN)

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 11:03 pm
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
Level 10 Tuning:

For your level 10 setup:
1) Remove all powertube shims. They do nothing except cause leaks when setting up your carriers. Shims do not affect how your level 10 bolt operates.
2) Use the shortest gold colored bolt spring to start. You can change to the red one later. Springs don't affect the adjustment of the carriers. The springs only affect the force of the bolt and as a side effect, the minimum velocity that you can operate the gun at. If you install a bolt spring that is too stiff, the chamber pressure/velocity setting cannot overcome the pressure to move the bolt forward and fire the gun. This is what was happening in your setup with the silver spring.
2) Install the largest carrier that does not leak when the trigger is released and the bolt is fully reset.
3) When you change carriers, always use the same white carrier oring. It's the tension of this oring that you are adjusting when you change carrier sizes.
4) Once you find the correct carrier size, your setup is good to go.
5) install the correct bolt spring for the bolt force you want your setup to operate at. For optimum operation, your gun should operate at a velocity that is about 20 feet per second above the lowest velocity that the gun starts to shoot. ie; If the gun starts to cycle at 250 fps with the gold spring, then your optimum velocity would be 270 fps for maximum antichop. The gun will operate fine at anything above that velocity setting. By going to the next larger bolt spring you could increase the minimum operating velocity to 270 fps and thus your optimum velocity to 290 fps which would be a better fit for most people. These numbers are arbitrary. Select the bolt spring that allows your setup to operate in the velocity range you want. They all differ because of different barrels and such.
6) If you so desire, install powertube shims. The adjust how far the bolt needs to travel in order to vent air and reset if the bolt encounters a jam directly in front of it. Most of the time, an object in the breach will always allow some movement and thus will allow the bolt to vent and reset. You should never need these shims. If your setup fires, or chuffs, or vents in any way, then shims will not help because changing where the bolt vents is all that shims do. They adjust in 0.01 of an inch, so 2 or three shims will be a pretty short distance adjustment. The bolt will almost always move at least that far no matter what anyway.

Hopefully this helps.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... bolt-stick

You have quite a few problems.

First thing first. Replace every oring in the marker. Rule of thumb when it comes to mags. They're an old platform so there's no way of knowing when the last time it's been over hauled. If it's a unk valve to you, best to replace every oring to include lubing every part individually by hand. That includes cleaning out the regulator, main body and power tube area with Q-Tips or whatever you might have lying around. Gut it, clean everything top to bottom and then take your time putting everything back together. Doing this will alleviate a lot of issues it might have and will keep you from chasing ghost problems all day long.

After that's been completed, tune the lvl 10. Go to a gold spring when first tuning. Under no circumstances you want to use the longest (gray) spring. Those springs were meant for fine tuning not for using as is. Those long springs will usually cause the valve to vent out the back or not shoot at all.

Athomas has a great lvl 10 tuning instruction. Follow it to the tee.

***Pulled of AO***
Quote:
Originally Posted by athomas

First, remove all the shims from the powertube. Install the short gold bolt spring to start. Then install the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak. Always use the same white carrier oring when changing carriers. The carriers are actually used to change the inner diameter of the oring, so it is important that you use the same one in each carrier that you use. Don't bother putting the shims back in.

Once you get the gun to fire without bolt stick or leaking, adjust the bolt spring. The bolt spring you should use is the one that allows you to operate the gun at about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun starts to cycle at. If the red bolt spring allows the gun to start cycling at 260fps, then the ideal operating velocity would be about 280fps. If the gun starts cycling at 285fps, then the ideal operating velocity would be about 305fps which is too high. You would need to use a shorter bolt spring to lower the starting velocity in this case.
EDIT:
As for the lvl 10 shims. They are only used if the marker isn't resetting right after the lvl 10's been tripped. If it's sticking or slow to reset. Add 1 shim at a time till the problem goes away.

FYI: Adding too many will cause a barrel leak.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/air- ... ubles.html

Level 10 power tube carrier sizes that worked. The general consensus seems to be 0 - 2.0 as most common with a few 2.5's:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... ist-thread

Official Level 10 Problems Thread:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... -Thread-**

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 10:59 am
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
Cool Automag vids.

34.5 bps with Zak Vetter and a scuba:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8OfQVJ7bFo

Tom Kaye Xmag interview in 2002:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EMlIT-AMvk

Lots of old school stuff and Automags:
http://www.youtube.com/user/yodamann/vi ... &flow=grid

Cockerpunk's guide to upgrading an Automag:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4M4QmlZPTaE

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 5:36 pm
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
Tuning threads (ie. problems and solutions)

RT Pro, pneumag with Level 10 and on/off issues:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... -Pro-valve

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 11:53 am
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
The Classic Manual put to text.


NOTICE

This document is provided to the Internet community courtesy of
Airgun Designs, Inc. Airgun Designs has granted permission to
electronically distribute this document free of charge. This
document is copyrighted by Airgun Designs, Inc. and may not be
reproduced in any other form without prior written permission from
Airgun Designs, Inc. Any electronic redistribution of this
document must retain this notice. This document is only to be
redistributed as it appears here, whole and unedited.

Any questions or comments regarding this document should be
directed to Airgun Designs, Inc.


68AUTOMAG

Operation, Maintenance and Parts

Level 7




Airgun Designs, Inc.
804 Seton Court
Wheeling, Illinois 60090
USA

WARNING

THIS PAINTBALL GUN IS NOT A TOY. THIS PAINTBALL GUN
SHOULD BE TREATED AS A DANGEROUS INSTRUMENT AND SHOULD
ALWAYS BE TREATED WITH RESPECT. IF MISUSED OR IMPROPERLY
MAINTAINED, THIS PAINTBALL GUN CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY
INJURY, INCLUDING BLINDNESS, OR EVEN DEATH.

THE PRESSURES EMPLOYED IN THIS PAINTBALL GUN ARE HIGH
ENOUGH TO ENDANGER HUMAN LIFE. THE AIR SOURCE MUST BE
REMOVED BEFORE DISASSEMBLING AND MAINTAINING THIS
PAINTBALL GUN IN ANY WAY.

READ ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND DIRECTIONS IN THIS
MANUAL BEFORE USING THIS PAINTBALL GUN.


NOTES TO USERS

1. This manual is based on a stock 68AUTOMAG equipped with a back
bottle adapter and a right hand feed into the breech.

2. WARNINGS emphasize an operation or procedure that if not
strictly observed could result in injury or death.

3. CAUTIONS emphasize an operation or procedure that if not
strictly observed could result in danger to or destruction of
the equipment or loss of paintball gun effectiveness.

4. NOTES point out an operation or procedure that it is desirable
to highlight.

5. Warnings and cautions precede the procedure to which they
apply. Notes follow the items to which they apply.

6. Directions in this manual are based on looking forward over the
barrel as if aiming the paintball gun. Front is the muzzle.
Rear is towards the back bottle adapter. Right is the feed
tube side. Top is the surface with the loader. Bottom is the
surface with the grip.

7. O-rings are classed as either active or inactive. An active
O-ring continuously seals and releases CO2. An inactive O-ring
only continuously holds CO2 pressure.

8. Dry firing means firing the 68AUTOMAG without any paintballs
being shot. Live firing means actually shooting paintballs.

9. The following abbreviations and symbols are used:

a. Feet per Second fps
b. Pounds per Square Inch psi
c. Degrees Fahrenheit F
d. Degrees Celsius C
e. Outer Diameter OD

10. Comments and suggestions to improve this manual should
be submitted to:
Airgun Designs, Inc.
804 Seton Court
Wheeling, Illinois 60090
USA

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PART 1 - FAST START 1-1
Intended Use 1-1
Getting Started 1-1
Common Problems 1-3
General 1-3
Poor Paintball Feeding 1-3
Bolt Stick 1-4
Air Venting 1-4
Total Shutdown 1-4
Velocity Drop Off 1-4
Liquid CO2 in the Paintball Gun 1-5
Cut Paintballs 1-5
Excessive Paintball Breakage 1-5
Double Feeding 1-5
Spontaneous Barrel Leaks 1-6

PART 2 - INTRODUCTION 2-1
General 2-1
Valve Body 2-3
Regulator 2-4
Power Tube 2-5
Bolt 2-5
Foamie 2-6
Bolt Spring 2-6
Back Bottle Adapter 2-6
Air Hose 2-6
Air Source 2-7
O-rings 2-7
Barrel 2-10
Nubbin 2-10
Loader and Elbow 2-10
Paintballs 2-10
Accessory Rails 2-11
Theory 2-11
Design Deficiencies 2-12
General 2-12
Using Pressure Regulators 2-12
Using CO2 2-13
Performance 2-13
Normal 2-13
Cold Weather 2-13
Rate of Fire 2-14
Updates and Upgrades 2-14

PART 3 - OPERATING THE 68AUTOMAG 3-1
Safetying the Paintball Gun 3-1
Disengaging the Safety 3-1
Inserting the Barrel 3-1
Removing the Barrel 3-1
Gassing up the Paintball Gun 3-2
Adjusting the Velocity 3-4
Unloading the Paintball Gun 3-5
Degassing the Paintball Gun 3-6
Field Stripping 3-7

PART 4 - MAINTAINING THE 68AUTOMAG 4-1
Viewing the Video 4-1
Cleaning 4-1
Lubricating 4-5
Replacing the Foamie 4-6
Adjusting the Nubbin 4-7
Disassembly of the 68AUTOMAG 4-8
Disassembly of the Regulator 4-9
Disassembly of the Power Tube 4-10
Disassembly of the Valve Body 4-11
Assembly of the Valve Body 4-13
Assembly of the Power Tube 4-15
Assembly of the Regulator 4-15
Assembly of the 68AUTOMAG 4-16


Safety Summary

The following are safety precautions not necessarily
related to any specific topic in this manual and therefore they
may or may not appear elsewhere in this manual. These are
precautions that users must understand and apply whenever
operating or maintaining this paintball gun.

DO NOT POINT OR SHOOT THIS PAINTBALL GUN AT ANIMALS. DO NOT
POINT OR SHOOT THIS PAINTBALL GUN AT PERSONS NOT ENGAGED IN
PLAYING PAINTBALL.

While engaging in paintball, you and your target must wear
proper safety gear including goggles, masks and pads.

FOLLOW ALL MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.

Do not attempt to repair this paintball gun by yourself.
If you are unsure about any aspect of the maintenance procedures,
contact your local dealer or Airgun Designs, Inc. at (708) 520-
7507 or Fax (708) 520-7848.

ALWAYS USE THE SAFETY LOCATED BEHIND THE TRIGGER ON
THE FRAME WHEN AN AIR SOURCE IS ATTACHED.

This paintball gun is always armed and cocked when an air
source is attached. Disengage the safety only when absolutely
necessary for play or testing. The safety is off and the
paintball gun will fire when the red ring of the safety pin is
showing.

ALWAYS CHRONOGRAPH THIS PAINTBALL GUN BEFORE USING. NEVER
SHOOT THIS PAINTBALL GUN WHEN THE CHRONOGRAPH READING EXCEEDS
300 FPS. ALWAYS RECHRONOGRAPH THE PAINTBALL GUN IF VENTING
OCCURS FROM THE REGULATOR NUT AT THE REAR OF THE PAINTBALL
GUN.

The 68AUTOMAG is designed to vent off overpressures that
cause unsafe shots, but, it is possible to fire over 300 fps
before the overpressure vents off (See Part 2, Para 11.). Liquid
CO2 in the paintball gun at a normal pressure also can cause shots
over 300 fps (See Part 1, Para 11.). If problems persist after
adjusting the velocity, contact your local dealer or
Airgun Designs, Inc.

ALWAYS REMOVE THE AIR SOURCE FROM THE PAINTBALL GUN AND DRY
FIRE IN A SAFE DIRECTION BEFORE DISASSEMBLING THE PAINTBALL
GUN.

The pressures in this paintball gun are dangerous and must
be vented before any servicing. Unloading and degassing the
paintball gun (See Part 3, Paras 7. & 8.) are required for safety.

DO NOT FIRE A PAINTBALL GUN THAT HAS EXCESSIVE
TRIGGER PULL.

The regulator allows gas under pressure to push the trigger
forward after shooting. An excessively hard trigger pull shows an
overpressure in the system. Contact your local dealer or
Airgun Designs, Inc. immediately.

DO NOT PUT YOUR FINGERS INTO THE BREECH AREA OR DOWN
THE PAINTBALL FEED TUBE WHILE FIRING THE PAINTBALL
GUN.


PART 1 - FAST START

Intended Use

1. This part of the manual is intended for players familiar with
the operation of paintball guns. It presents a quick overview
of the 68AUTOMAG.


Getting Started

2. To ready the 68AUTOMAG for play:

a. Insert the Barrel into the Main Body then twist the
Barrel 1/4 turn clockwise.

b. Push the Safety Pin located behind the Trigger from
right to left to disengage. Check that the RED ring on
the Safety Pin is showing.

c. Hold the paintball gun upwards. Squeeze and hold the
Trigger.

WARNING

Introducing CO2 pressure to the
paintball gun will charge and
cock the system.

CAUTION

Do NOT use a siphon type constant
air tank. Liquid CO2 will damage
the seals.


d. Attach the CO2 source to the Back Bottle Adapter by
turning the Air Source clockwise.

NOTES

1. It is recommended to
lubricate any air source O-ring
with a little Lithium Grease
(White Grease) before attaching
the Air Source to the Back Bottle
Adapter.

2. If the Air Source is a pin
valve constant air tank, rotate
the tank at least one full turn
after initial gas up.

3. If the Air Source is a
constant air tank with an on/off
valve, open the on/off valve
fully after attaching.


e. Release the Trigger.

NOTE

At this point, the CO2 pressure
within the paintball gun will
push the Trigger Rod forward
against the Trigger with a loud
click. The paintball gun is now
cocked and armed.

WARNING

Only fire the paintball gun in
areas where firing is permitted.

WARNING

An excessively hard trigger pull
shows overpressure in the system.
Do NOT fire a paintball gun that
has excessive trigger pull.

f. Dry fire the paintball gun several times in a safe
direction to seat the Regulator Piston and Regulator
Spring Pack properly.

g. Push the Safety Pin located behind the Trigger from
left to right to engage. Check that the RED ring on the
Safety Pin is NOT showing.

h. Attach the Elbow to the Ball Feed Tube, then insert
the Loader into the Elbow. Load the Loader with
.68 calibre paintballs.

i. Chronograph the paintball gun velocity to meet the
field safety speed limits. Adjust the velocity by
turning the Regulator Nut with the Allen key supplied.
Turning the Regulator Nut clockwise increases the
velocity; counterclockwise decreases the velocity.


Common Problems

General

3. The 68AUTOMAG, like any other paintball gun, can have problems
during play. Some problems are common to any paintball gun
while some are unique to the 68AUTOMAG. Solutions to any of
the common problems are not difficult.

4. Simple problems that can occur are:

a. Poor Paintball Feeding;
b. Bolt Stick;
c. Air Venting;
d. Total Shutdown;
e. Velocity Drop Off;
f. Liquid CO2 in the Paintball Gun;
g. Cut Paintballs;
h. Excessive Paintball Breakage;
i. Double Feeding; and
j. Spontaneous Barrel Leaks.

5. Each of these problems is discussed and the solution(s)
underlined in the sections that follow.

Poor Paintball Feeding

6. Poor paintball feeding is usually caused by one or more of:
user technique, bolt blowback, elbow hangups or nubbin depth.
Explanations and solutions are:

a. The 68AUTOMAG lacks recoil to shake the Loader and help
feeding. Occasionally shake the paintball gun gently
during play.
b. The Loader provided can only feed at most 7 paintballs
per second. Control your rate of fire.
c. Bolt Blowback helps feeding if the Loader is full but
can blow the paintball up the Ball Feed Tube when the
Loader is near empty. Keep at least 20 paintballs in
the Loader.
d. Paintballs may hang up on edges or corners in the
Elbow. Make sure there are no sharp corners or edges
in the Elbow. Sand the inside of the Elbow if
necessary.
e. The Nubbin is adjusted to prevent two paintballs from
feeding into the breech. If the Nubbin is in too far,
oversize paint will not feed. Adjust the Nubbin
outwards.

Bolt Stick

7. The Bolt can stick forward causing the Trigger to lock. Bolt
Stick is due to either paint chips wedging between the Bolt
and the breech or, when degassing the paintball gun, firing
the last few shots with no CO2 pressure. When the Bolt sticks
forward, the Trigger will not come forward. To clear Bolt
Stick:

a. Unload the paintball gun;
b. Remove the Barrel;
c. Push the Bolt back with a wooden rod until the Trigger
clicks forward.

Air Venting

WARNING

Air venting out the back of the
Regulator Nut shows that the
internal Blow Off Valve is
venting an overpressure in the
system.

8. Air Venting can occur from the rear of the Regulator Nut due to
an overpressure in the system or liquid boiling off in the
Valve Body or Regulator. The paintball gun is shooting at
approximately 340 fps. ALWAYS check the velocity any time the
Blow Off Valve vents to prevent injuries to players.

Total Shutdown

9. Total shutdown is caused by an empty Air Source. The 68AUTOMAG
gives little indication that it is running out of gas. When a
noticeable velocity drop occurs, only 20 to 30 shots remain
till total shutdown. Change the Air Source.

Velocity Drop Off

10. Velocity drop off can be caused by the Regulator being unable
to fill completely between shots, insufficient CO2 flow or a
near empty Air Source. Slow your rate of fire. Ensure the
Air Source is fully open. Change the Air Source.

Liquid CO2 in the Paintball Gun

11. Liquid CO2 can enter the Air Chamber and, when expelled into
the Barrel behind the paintball, the CO2 boils instantly to
30 times its volume. The resulting shot will be above the
velocity setting. Depending on the volume of the liquid, the
speed may exceed 350 fps. The rapid boil off is known as
supercharging . The Blow Off Valve will NOT prevent
supercharging because the liquid is at normal pressure when
it enters the Air Chamber. Liquid CO2 also will cause all
the active O-rings to leak resulting in no velocity control.
To prevent liquid in the paintball gun:

a. Never shoot at the ground because this allows liquid
CO2 to run straight into the paintball gun.
b. Never overfill a constant air tank because a higher
than normal liquid level will drain liquid CO2 into the
paintball gun.
c. Keep the paintball gun at a warm temperature because a
cold Valve Body will stop the liquid CO2 entering from
boiling into a gas as designed.
d. Never put a warm Air Source on a cold paintball gun
since the CO2 may condense into a liquid when the CO2
enters the Air Chamber.

Cut Paintballs

12. Paintballs in the breech being cut by the Bolt shows a
feed problem (See Para 6.).

Excessive Paintball Breakage

13. A properly set-up 68AUTOMAG, using quality paintballs, will
break approximately 3-4 paintballs per 1000. Paintball
breakage is due to one of the following; physical impact of
the BOLT, CO2 blast or poor paint quality. Check the Foamie
located on the front of the Bolt for damage or debris.
Reduce the velocity to reduce CO2 blast. Try a different
batch of paintballs by changing the colour or the brand of
the paint.

Double Feeding

14. Double feeding occurs when two paintballs feed into the
breech simultaneously. The size and shape of paintballs may
vary. Temperature and humidity will affect both size and
shape. The Nubbin is designed to prevent double feeds.
Adjust the Nubbin inwards.

Spontaneous Barrel Leaks

15. Spontaneous barrel leaks are usually short lived but are an
annoyance on the field. Poor lubrication of the Power Tube
O-ring or ice crystals on the Power Tube O-ring are the
cause. An unlubricated o-ring will usually seat itself after
a few shots. If ice is causing the leak, continued firing
will only prolong the problem. Pause long enough to warm up
the Power Tube O-ring.

NOTE

If the Barrel continues to leak
and the action of the game
prevents repairs, hold the
Trigger down to stop the leak and
allow the Power Tube O-ring to
warm up. When ready to fire,
release the Trigger and fire
quickly. Expect lower paintball
velocity since the Air Chamber
will not have time to fill fully.


PART 2 - INTRODUCTION

General

1. The 68AUTOMAG can be broken down into pneumatic components and
mechanical components. Pneumatic components are explained
fully in this manual since they relate directly to function
and maintenance. All mechanical components are listed for
identification. Most mechanical components are not explained
since they are not critical to proper functioning of the
paintball gun. Those mechanical components that need
explanation are detailed.

2. Pneumatic components are:

a. Valve Body with:

(1) Valve Body Hole with:

(a) Valve Body Hole Large O-ring,

(b) Valve Body Hole Small O-ring,

(2) On/Off Valve Assembly consisting of:

(a) On/Off Top,

(b) On/Off Pin,

(c) On/Off Bottom with:

i. On/Off Bottom Large O-ring,

ii. On/Off Bottom Small O-ring,

(3) Air Chamber;

b. Regulator with:

(1) Regulator Body with:

(a) Regulator Body Detent Pin,

(b) Regulator Body O-ring,

(2) Regulator Piston with:

(a) Regulator Piston O-ring,

(b) Blow Off Valve,

(3) Regulator Nut,

(4) Regulator Seal,

(5) Regulator Valve with:

(a) Regulator Valve Spring,

(6) Regulator Spring Pack;

c. Power Tube consisting of:

(1) Power Tube Insert with:

(a) Power Tube Insert O-ring,

(2) Power Tube Spring,

(3) Power Tube O-ring,

(4) Power Tube Bumper;

d. Bolt with:

(1) Foamie,

(2) Bolt Spring;

e. Back Bottle Adapter;

f. Air Hose; and

g. Air Source.

3. Mechanical components consist of:

a. Frame with:

(1) Trigger,

(2) Safety Pin,

(3) Safety Spring,

(4) Safety Detent Ball,

(5) Front Frame Screw,

(6) Field Strip Screw;

b. Rail with:

(1) Sear with:

(a) Sear Pin,

(2) Trigger Rod,

(3) Z-shaped Slot,

(4) Accessory Rails,

(5) Barrel Lock Pin;

c. Main Body with

(1) Ball Feed Tube;

d. Barrel with:

(1) Nubbin,

(2) Barrel Detent Slot,

(3) Barrel O-rings; and

e. Loader with:

(1) Elbow,

(2) Paintballs.


Valve Body

4. The Valve Body is a critical component of the 68AUTOMAG. The
Valve Body is easily identified by the Air Hose attached to
it. Installed correctly, the Valve Body screws into the
Regulator so that the 68AUTOMAG logo on each part lines up.

5. The Valve Body Hole is on the bottom of the Valve Body. The
On/Off Valve Assembly fits into the Valve Body Hole. At the
bottom of the Valve Body Hole, placed in before the On/Off
Valve Assembly, are two o-rings pressed within each other. The
two o-rings prevent CO2 escape past the On/Off Pin and through
the On/Off Valve Assembly. The inner of the two o-rings, the
Valve Body Hole Small O-ring, is an active o-ring made of
teflon. The outer of the two o-rings, the Valve Body Hole
Large O-ring, is an inactive o-ring made of urethane.

6. The On/Off Valve Assembly is used to control the flow of CO2
between the Regulator and the Air Chamber. The On/Off Valve
Assembly consists of the On/Off Top, On/Off Bottom and On/Off
Pin. Located in the Valve Body Hole and moved by the Sear, the
up and down movement of the On/Off Pin seals the Regulator from
the Air Chamber. To prevent CO2 escape, the On/Off Valve
Assembly uses two o-rings. The On/Off Bottom Large O-ring is
an inactive o-ring made of urethane. The On/Off Bottom Small
O-ring is an inactive o-ring made of white teflon.

7. The Air Chamber receives the measured charge of CO2 from the
Regulator. When the Air Chamber vents, the CO2 gas expands
through the Power Tube and pushes the Bolt forward. Level 7
paintball guns have slightly larger air chambers than previous
models to decrease the pressure within the chamber and reduce
paintball breakage. In Level 7 paintball guns, the Power Tube
is welded to the Air Chamber. The Air Chamber cannot be
opened.

Regulator

8. The Regulator is the heart of the 68AUTOMAG. The Regulator, as
the name implies, controls the pressures within the 68AUTOMAG
and therefore the velocity.

9. The Regulator Body is at the rear of the paintball gun and
screwed into the Valve Body. The air seal is maintained
between the Regulator Body and the Valve Body by the Regulator
Seal and the Regulator Body O-ring. The Regulator Valve with
the Regulator Valve Spring is used to close the Regulator from
the Air Source. Located on the bottom of the Regulator Body,
the Regulator Body Detent Pin is a small metal pin which slides
into the Z-shaped Slot in the Rail. The Regulator Body Detent
Pin is designed to prevent the Valve Body and Regulator from
springing back clear of the Rail when the Field Strip Screw is
removed.

10. The Regulator Piston is inside the Regulator Body. The
position of the Regulator Piston is adjusted by turning the
Regulator Nut which compresses the Regulator Spring Pack. By
moving the Regulator Piston, the pressure of the CO2 in the
paintball gun and thus the velocity is controlled.

11. The Regulator Piston also contains the Blow Off Valve. The
Blow Off Valve vents off any overpressure in the Regulator or
Air Chamber. The Blow Off Valve is factory set for
approximately 550 psi and is not user adjustable. If fired
when venting, at the factory pressure setting, the paintball
gun is firing at approximately 340 fps, an unsafe speed.

Power Tube

12. The Power Tube delivers the blast of discharged CO2 from the
Air Chamber to the Bolt. The Power Tube contains the Power
Tube Spring and the Power Tube O-ring. The Power Tube Spring
holds the Power Tube O-ring in place to seal the Air Chamber.

13. The Power Tube Insert is made of brass and screws into the
Power Tube. The Power Tube Insert is open on the end which
allows the central shaft of the Bolt to slide into the Power
Tube, through the Power Tube Spring and against the Power Tube
O-ring to complete the seal on the Power Tube.

Bolt

14. Held in place by the Sear, the Bolt sits overtop the Power
Tube and blows forward when the paintball gun is fired. The
central metal shaft of the Bolt slides into the Power Tube to
seal the Power Tube from the Air Chamber until the paintball
gun is fired. Because replacing a bolt is easier than a
sear, the Bolt is made of a softer material than the Sear.
Eventually, the Bolt will wear along the edge where the Sear
rests. A worn down edge will prevent the Bolt from locking in
place and the paintball gun will go fully automatic.

Foamie

15. The neoprene rubber Foamie is designed to cushion the
paintball as it is pushed past the Nubbin into the Barrel by
the Bolt. The Foamie is the only part of the paintball gun
that will require regular replacement (generally once a
season). The Foamie is glued to the front of the Bolt using a
commercial super glue.

Bolt Spring

16. The Bolt Spring is made of high tensile square spring steel.
A squared spring was chosen to help in seating the Bolt Spring
onto the Bolt. Installed over the Bolt, the Bolt Spring
compresses as the Bolt moves forward. When the CO2 escapes
the Bolt, the Bolt Spring expands and pushes the Bolt back to
where the Sear can catch the Bolt.

Back Bottle Adapter

17. The Back Bottle Adapter is attached to the rear of the Rail by
two screws and is the attachment point for the CO2 source. It
is also used to deliver lubrication to the internal components
of the paintball gun.

Air Hose

18. A braided metal Air Hose delivers CO2 from the Back Bottle
Adapter to the Valve Body. An external hose was chosen so
that the design of the 68AUTOMAG did not require an internal
CO2 delivery passage. An internal CO2 delivery passage would
require constant resealing when the paintball gun was broken
open for maintenance. The Air Hose is connected by brass
fittings that remain sealed during normal maintenance. This
limits the chances of a leak from the Air Hose.

Air Source
CAUTION

Do NOT use a siphon type constant
air tank. Liquid CO2 will damage
the seals and o-rings.

19. The 68AUTOMAG can be used with any standard source of CO2
either constant air tank, 12 gram or back bottle pack,
provided the source can be attached to the paintball gun. The
Air Source used must be able to feed CO2 fast enough into the
68AUTOMAG to support rapid firing.

O-rings

20. The O-rings used in the 68AUTOMAG are all made from either
high quality 90 durometer urethane or teflon. The O-rings are
designed for long life and abrasion resistance. The O-rings
were selected for easy access and interchangeability.

21. O-rings are classed as either active or inactive. An active
O-ring continuously seals and releases CO2. An inactive O-ring
only continuously holds CO2 pressure.

22. All active O-rings are accessible without tools, still,
removing the O-rings without a tool may be difficult. If a
particular active O-ring starts to wear and a replacement is
not available, the active O-ring can be exchanged with an
identical inactive O-ring from another portion of the
paintball gun. It is highly unlikely that inactive O-rings
will ever wear or leak, but, they can be traded with their
identical active counterparts on the field if necessary.
Swapping a leaking inactive o-ring into an active position is
not recommended since active o-rings are critical to the
paintball gun working correctly.





Barrel

23. The standard Barrel on the 68AUTOMAG is made from aluminum
stock. The Barrel Lock Pin is a stainless steel detent pin
mounted in the Rail. The O-rings on the Barrel serve to give
the Barrel a friction fit. The Barrel O-rings do not seal air
pressure.

Nubbin

24. A wire Nubbin prevents double feeding. The Nubbin is woven in
a machined channel on the barrel upper surface and held in
place by the Barrel O-rings. A properly installed Nubbin
protrudes about 1-1/2 to 2 thicknesses of a matchbook cover
into the breech of the Barrel. The Nubbin will automatically
compensate for all size paintballs and should give long life
if not abused.

Loader and Elbow

25. Included with the 68AUTOMAG is a 90 round VIEWLOADER and
Elbow. Under ideal conditions, the Loader provided can feed
paintballs at a maximum rate of seven per second. The plastic
Elbow connects the Loader to the Ball Feed Tube on the Main
Body. To permit maximum feeding, the Elbow should be smooth
on the inside and without sharp edges or corners. Any
obstructions will cause the paintballs to hangup in the Elbow
and Loader.

Paintballs

26. There are many brands of paintballs on the market; all with
different specifications. Differences in shell thickness,
shape, fill colour and fill density will result in performance
differences. Low quality paintballs will work poorly in the
68AUTOMAG. With a properly set up paintball gun using quality
paint, users can expect to break only three to four paintballs
per thousand. Low quality paint will break one in 50.

27. Paintball breakage is caused two ways: poor feeding or
impact. Poor feeding will result in the paintball not being
fully in the breech and the bolt cutting the paintball during
firing. Impact comes either from the bolt or from CO2 blast.
When the Foamie is damaged or missing, the Bolt will break the
shell of the paintball. Blast from the CO2 will break thin
shelled paintballs.

28. A good test for paintball shell strength is to drop a few
paintballs, one at a time, from a height of six feet.
Paintballs that consistently survive six or seven bounces are
considered fresh. Paintballs that break within three bounces
are either stale or have weak shells.

29. If the Foamie and the Nubbin are in good shape and the
paintball gun still experiences breakage problems, switching
paintball brands or colors within a brand may solve the
problem because the paint batch has changed. Experimenting
with different type of paintballs and colors will decide the
best paintball for each individual 68AUTOMAG and playing
conditions.

Accessory Rails

30. There are two Accessory Rails molded into the side of the Rail
for mounting various accessories. The Accessory Rails can
hold anything that would bolt to a regular sight rail.


Theory

31. The 68AUTOMAG is a semi-automatic paintball gun using the
design idea of blow forward from an open bolt. The action
takes place in three stages: Regulation, Chamber Fill and
Chamber Dump.

32. Regulation begins when an Air Source is connected to the
paintball gun and the pneumatic system builds up pressure. At
a predetermined pressure, set by the Regulator Nut, the
Regulator Valve closes and seals off the Air Source from the
remainder of the paintball gun. The pressure in the paintball
gun is now approximately 400 psi though the air source
pressure may vary from 600 to 1000 psi under different
temperatures depending on the air source used.

33. Chamber Fill, the second stage, happens when the Trigger is
released. The On/Off Valve Assembly opens and allows the Air
Chamber within the Valve Body to fill from the Regulator to a
regulated pressure of 400 psi. To prevent flow into the Power
Tube, the forward seal of the Air Chamber is created by the
Power Tube O-ring and the central shaft of the Bolt.

34. Stage three, Chamber Dump, is the critical phase. The air
chamber design is like a champagne bottle with a cork stuck in
the opening. The Bolt, like a cork, wants to pop forward, but
the Sear holds the Bolt in place. Pulling the Trigger pushes
the Trigger Rod which tilts the Sear. The Sear first closes
the On/Off Valve Assembly shutting off the Air Chamber from
the Regulator. This gives the paintball gun a precise amount
of regulated CO2 charge within the Air Chamber. The Sear next
releases the Bolt. The CO2 pressure pushes the Bolt forward
and breaks the forward seal of the Air Chamber. Like a cork
moving out of the bottle, the Bolt starts moving forward into
the breech area. The Bolt pushes the paintball past the Nubbin
into the Barrel. As this has been happening, CO2 has been
entering the Power Tube, expanding and moving through the
Power Tube Insert and the front face of the Bolt. The
escaping CO2 blows the paintball down the Barrel and out into
the atmosphere. As the Bolt moves forward, it compresses the
Bolt Spring located in front of and around the Bolt. After
all the CO2 escapes the Bolt, the Bolt Spring expands and
pushes the Bolt back into the starting position where the Sear
locks the Bolt down again and reseals the Power Tube from the
Air Chamber. Releasing the Trigger begins the process again
by opening the On/Off Valve Assembly and filling the Air
Chamber from the Regulator.


Design Deficiencies

General

35. As with all designs, the design of the 68AUTOMAG is not
perfect. There are inadequacies in this design caused by
using regulators and using CO2. Airgun Designs, Inc. is
investigating using alternate technology and power sources.

Using Pressure Regulators

36. All pressure regulators, by the nature of their design, cannot
fill a chamber instantly. Regulators must fill most of the
chamber quickly then taper off to reach the desired pressure.
Chamber Fill on the 68AUTOMAG takes roughly 1/3 of a second.
Because of the Regulator tapering off, when firing the
paintball gun faster than three shots per second, the Air
Chamber will not fill fully and the average velocity will drop
by 10 to 20 fps.

Using CO2

37. The other problem revolves around the CO2 itself. Usually
thought of as either a gas or a liquid, in reality CO2 takes
the form of steam. Like water, CO2 boils when heated and
becomes a steam. The CO2 steam will still exist in a moist
form until its temperature is above 87 F (31 C) at normal
atmospheric pressure. Boiling temperature of any liquid is
affected by the pressure; higher pressures raise the boiling
temperature, lower pressures lower the boiling temperature.
Firing rapidly lowers the pressure in the Air Source and
causes the CO2 to boil at a lower temperature than normal.
The CO2 steam then enters the Air Chamber. The Air Chamber
empties when the paintball gun fires and lowers the pressure
yet again. The steam in the Air Chamber boils into a gas and
expands its volume by 30 times. The result is velocity
variation in firing the paintballs. Placing a warm Air Source
onto a cold paintball gun will allow warm CO2 steam into the
paintball gun where the steam will condense into a liquid in
the Air Chamber. When the Air Chamber empties, the liquid
rapidly boils off and results in a dangerous overspeed shot
(See Part 1, Para 11.).


Performance

Normal

38. Using the 11 inch barrel, the 68AUTOMAG will get an average of
400 good shots from a 7 oz. constant air tank under normal
conditions. Using a twelve gram source will usually give 20
good shots if time is allowed between shots for pressure
recovery. Firing 5 paintballs per second using a 12 gram will
give 10 to 13 good shots. Using a longer or shorter barrel
will affect the gas efficiency and change the number of good
shots from any CO2 source.

Cold Weather

39. 68AUTOMAG performance at temperatures below 40 F (4 C) will be
poor because gas pressure is affected by temperature of the
gas. Since the paintball gun is designed to function at a
predetermined pressure, temperatures below freezing will not
generate sufficient air source pressure for adequate
velocity. Some method of keeping the Air Source above
freezing will be necessary, but this increases the risk of
warm CO2 condensing in the cold paintball gun and dangerous
overspeed shots.

Rate of Fire

CAUTION

Rates of fire higher than 6 shots
per second may result in feeding
problems. The standard
VIEWLOADER supplied with the
paintball gun can only feed 7
paintballs per second under ideal
conditions.

40. The average person can fire 4 to 5 shots per second due to the
68AUTOMAG trigger mechanism. The trigger mechanism was
designed for the highest rate of fire possible. Trigger
takeup, the distance the Trigger is pulled before moving the
Trigger Rod, has been kept to a minimum. Charged with
adrenaline in a game situation, a person may increase their
rate of fire to 6 shots per second.


Updates and Upgrades

41. Airgun Designs, Inc. is constantly pushing the leading edge of
paintball technology and making refinements in their paintball
guns. As a service to the customer, the company offers
updates and upgrades to keep the customer and the paintball
gun at the forefront of paintball technology and firepower.

42. Updates are changes that improve the original design or
function of the paintball gun. For one year from date of
purchase, Airgun Designs, Inc. will provide to registered
owners free updates.

43. Upgrades are options that add new features to the
original design. A few examples are specialty barrels, differing
air hose lengths, front bottle adapter kits, left feed main bodies
and power feeds. Upgrades are available from the company at a
reasonable cost.

44. Contact Airgun Designs, Inc. at (708) 520-7507 or Fax
(708) 520-7848 for information on the latest updates and upgrades
available. If sent a self addressed stamped envelope and the
serial number of the paintball gun by the owner, Airgun Designs,
Inc. will return a complete history of that particular 68AUTOMAG.


PART 3 - OPERATING THE 68AUTOMAG

Safetying the Paintball Gun

1. To safety the paintball gun:

a. Push the Safety Pin located behind the Trigger from
left to right to engage.

b. Check that the RED ring on the Safety Pin is NOT
showing.

Disengaging the Safety

2. To disengage the safety:

a. Push the Safety Pin located behind the Trigger from
right to left to disengage.

b. Check that the RED ring on the Safety Pin is showing.

Inserting the Barrel

3. To insert the Barrel into the Main Body:

a. Slide the Barrel, Nubbin on top, into the Main Body to
line up the Barrel Lock Pin with the Barrel Detent
Slot.

b. Push the Barrel gently straight in until the Barrel
stops moving.

c. Turn the Barrel 1/4 turn counterclockwise to line the
feed hole with the Ball Feed Tube.

Removing the Barrel

4. To remove the Barrel from the Main Body:

a. Turn the Barrel 1/4 turn clockwise.

b. Pull the Barrel gently straight out of the Main Body.

NOTE

Hold the paintball gun up to
prevent paintballs from falling
out of the paintball gun if the
Loader is still attached.

Gassing up the Paintball Gun

5. To gas up the paintball gun:

a. Safety the paintball gun.

b. Hold the paintball gun upwards. Squeeze and hold the
Trigger.

WARNING

Introducing air pressure to the
paintball gun will charge and
cock the system.

CAUTION

Do NOT use a siphon type constant
air tank. Liquid CO2 will damage
the seals.

c. Attach the CO2 source to the Back Bottle Adapter by
turning the Air Source clockwise.


NOTES

1. It is recommended to
lubricate any air source O-ring
with a little Lithium Grease
(White Grease) before attaching
the Air Source to the Back Bottle
Adapter.

2. Rotate pin valve tanks at
least one full turn after initial
gas up.

3. For constant air sources with
on/off valves, open the on/off
valve fully.

d. Release the Trigger.

NOTE

At this point, the CO2 pressure
within the paintball gun will
push the Trigger Rod Forward
against the Trigger with a loud
click.

e. Disengage the safety.

WARNING

Only fire the paintball gun in
areas where firing is permitted.

WARNING

An excessively hard trigger pull
shows overpressure in the system.
Do NOT fire a paintball gun that
has excessive trigger pull.

f. Dry fire the paintball gun several times in safe
direction to seat the Regulator Piston and Regulator
Spring Pack properly.

g. Safety the paintball gun.

Adjusting the Velocity

6. To adjust the velocity:

WARNING

Only fire the paintball gun in
areas where firing is permitted.

WARNING

An excessively hard trigger pull
shows overpressure in the system.
Do NOT fire a paintball gun that
has excessive trigger pull.

a. Dry fire a few shots in a safe direction, if the
paintball gun has not been fired, to seat the Regulator
Piston and Regulator Spring Pack properly.

NOTE

To prevent paintballs from
firing, either remove the Loader
and empty the Ball Feed Tube and
breech OR hold the paintball gun
upside down with the Loader below
the paintball gun and the Barrel
pointed up, then shake gently to
move the paintballs back into the
Loader.

b. Live fire over a chronograph to find the initial
velocity.

c. Adjust the velocity by turning the Regulator Nut with
the Allen key provided. Turning clockwise will
increase the velocity; turning counterclockwise will
lower the velocity.

d. Turn the Regulator Nut counterclockwise to lower the
velocity if CO2 begins venting out the rear of the
Regulator Nut.

e. Repeat live firing and turning the Regulator Nut as
necessary until the desired velocity is set.

NOTES

1. Start at a low velocity
setting and screw the Regulator
Nut clockwise up to the desired
velocity.

2. A complete clockwise turn
of the Regulator Nut will
increase the velocity from
approximately 200 fps to 300 fps.

3. If CO2 vents from the rear
of the Regulator Nut, the Blow
Off Valve has opened because of
an overpressure. The velocity
will likely be over 300 fps.

4. Airgun Designs, Inc. has
found that the best performance
of the 68AUTOMAG is in the 270 to
280 fps range.


Unloading the Paintball Gun

7. To unload the paintball gun:

a. Safety the paintball gun.

b. Turn the paintball gun upside down.

c. Shake the paintball gun gently to roll all the
paintballs from the breech and Ball Feed Tube into the
Loader.

d. Remove the Loader and Elbow while still holding the
paintball gun upside down.

e. Set aside the Loader and Elbow.

Degassing the Paintball Gun

8. To de-gas the paintball gun:

a. Safety the paintball gun.

b. Unload the paintball gun.

c. Unscrew the pin valve constant air tank one full turn
counterclockwise or fully close the on/off valve of the
on/off valve constant air tank.

d. Disengage the safety.

WARNING

Only fire the paintball gun in
areas where firing is permitted.

e. Dry fire the paintball gun until the paintball gun no
longer fires.

f. If the paintball gun continues to fire, unscrew the pin
valve constant air tank another full counterclockwise
turn and repeat the dry firing.

g. Repeat unscrewing the constant air tank and dry firing
as necessary.

NOTE

Firing the last shots when
degassing the paintball gun may
cause bolt stick.

h. Stop firing once the paintball gun has been degassed.

i. Safety the paintball gun.

CAUTION

Tightening the Air Source back
onto the paintball gun before all
gas is vented from the Back
Bottle Adapter will damage the
Air Source O-ring.

j. Unscrew counterclockwise the Air Source until all gas
vents from the Back Bottle Adapter and the Air Source
is free of the paintball gun.

Field Stripping

9. To field strip the 68AUTOMAG:

a. Safety the paintball gun.

b. Unload the paintball gun.

c. Disengage the safety.

d. De-gas the paintball gun.

e. Hold the rear of the Regulator and remove the Field
Strip Screw.

f. Hold the Trigger down and guide the Regulator and Valve
Body back along the Rail until the Regulator Body
Detent Pin reaches the stop in the Z-shaped Slot.

g. Press down on the Air Hose to rotate the Regulator Body
Detent Pin free of the Z-shaped Slot.

h. Draw the Regulator, Valve Body and Bolt back until free
of the Main Body

http://cdn.preterhuman.net/texts/anarch ... utomag.man

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 11:53 am
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
Manual Part 2

PART 4 - MAINTAINING THE 68AUTOMAG

Viewing the Video

1. A video tape on maintaining the 68AUTOMAG is included
in the purchase of this paintball gun. It is highly recommended
that users read the manual, then view the video for explanations.

Cleaning

2. To clean quickly:

a. Safety the paintball gun.

b. Unload the paintball gun.

c. Remove the Barrel

CAUTION

Keep the paintball gun fully
pressurized to prevent water
entering the internal workings of
the pneumatics. If water enters
the internals, break the
paintball gun down completely and
thoroughly dry all parts.

d. Swish the complete paintball gun in a bucket of clean
warm water.

e. Swish the Barrel in the bucket of water.

f. Dry the paintball gun with a clean dry cloth.

g. Dry the Barrel with a clean dry cloth.

3. To deep clean after hard use:

a. De-gas the paintball gun.
b. Field strip the paintball gun.
c. Slide the Bolt off the Power Tube and set aside the
Bolt.
d. Remove the Power Tube Bumper from the Power Tube.
e. Unscrew the Power Tube Insert using a coin.
f. Remove the Power Tube Spring.
g. Remove the Power Tube O-ring.
(1) Examine the Power Tube O-ring for cleanliness and
wear.
(2) Clean the Power Tube O-ring or replace if
necessary.

NOTE

The Power Tube O-ring is an
active O-ring. It is the o-ring
most likely to require
replacement due to wear. If no
spare is available, the Power
Tube O-ring may be swapped with
other o-rings.

CAUTION

Lubricants other than the
AUTOLUBE supplied may break down
the Foamie on the Bolt.

h. Lightly lubricate the Power Tube O-ring with AUTOLUBE .
i. Drop the Power Tube O-ring into the Power Tube.
j. Place the Power Tube Spring into the Power Tube.

NOTE

The flattest end of the Power
Tube Spring should rest against
the Power Tube O-ring.

CAUTION

Do NOT strip the threads by over
tightening the Power Tube Insert.

k. Screw the Power Tube Insert into the Power Tube.
l. Slide the Power Tube Bumper down over the Power Tube to
rest against the front face of the Valve Body.
m. Slide the Bolt over the Power Tube.

NOTE

The Bolt sits just slightly above
the Power Tube Bumper when the
Power Tube is assembled
correctly.

n. Unscrew the Regulator from the Valve Body and set aside
the Regulator.

CAUTION

Do NOT damage the Regulator Valve
Spring on the front of the
Regulator Valve. The Regulator
Valve Spring must fit into the
centre passage on the rear face
of the Valve Body to seal the
Regulator from the Air Source.

o. Pull the Regulator Valve with Regulator Valve Spring
gently from the Valve Body.
p. Clean the Regulator Valve and the Regulator Valve
Spring thoroughly.

NOTES

1. The Regulator Valve Spring
will catch particles of debris
that come from the Air Source.

2. Pay particular attention to
the edge of the Regulator Valve
that touches against the
Regulator Seal.

q. Remove the Regulator Seal from the front face of the
Regulator.
(1) Examine the Regulator Seal for cleanliness or
wear.
(2) Clean the Regulator Seal or replace if necessary.

WARNING

Do NOT disassemble the Regulator
Nut while the paintball gun is
under pressure.

r. Unscrew the Regulator Nut.
s. Remove the Regulator Spring Pack.
t. Remove the Regulator Piston by either pushing the
Regulator Piston out using a straightened paper clip
through the front face of the Regulator Body or by
hooking the Regulator Piston from the back.
u. Clean and lubricate the Regulator Piston with AUTOLUBE.
v. Slide the Regulator Piston, solid face down, into the
Regulator Body.
w. Slide the Regulator Spring Pack, large washer first,
into the Regulator Body.
x. Screw in the Regulator Nut until snug.


WARNING

Debris on the Regulator Seal may
cause the Regulator to leak
slowly or cause the paintball gun
to shoot at a high velocity. The
higher than normal velocity of
the paintball may injure other
players if hit.

y. Snap the Regulator Seal into the face of the threaded
end of the Regulator Body.

NOTES

1. The Regulator Seal is cut
with the edges slightly bevelled.
The slightly larger face snaps
into the Regulator Body to hold
the seal in place.

2. The Regulator Seal can be
reversed and carefully assembled
if a problem develops and no
replacement is available.

Lubricating

4. Lubrication plays a critical role in maintaining the
68AUTOMAG. Lubrication is required for the Power Tube O-ring, the
Regulator Piston, the Regulator Nut, the Regulator Spring Pack and
the metal parts of the paintball gun itself.

5. Lubricate the Power Tube O-ring as follows:

CAUTION

Lubricants other than the
AUTOLUBE supplied may break down
the Foamie on the Bolt.

a. Once every two playing days:
(1) Drip 4-6 drops of AUTOLUBE into the Back Bottle
Adapter.
(2) Remove the Barrel.

NOTE

Removing the Barrel will prevent
a build up of oil in the Barrel.

(3) Gas up the paintball gun.
(4) Dry fire several dozen times to distribute the
oil.



CAUTION

Lubricants other than the
AUTOLUBE supplied may break down
the Foamie on the Bolt.

b. During deep cleaning:
(1) Clean the Power Tube O-ring.
(2) Lightly lubricate the Power Tube O-ring with
AUTOLUBE .
(3) Reinstall the Power Tube O-ring in the Power
Tube.

6. Lubricate the Regulator Piston as follows:

a. During deep cleaning:
(1) Clean the Regulator Piston.
(2) Lightly lubricate the Regulator Piston with
AUTOLUBE .
(3) Reinstall the Regulator Piston in the Regulator
Body.

b. During reassembly of the Regulator:
(1) Clean the Regulator Piston.
(2) Lightly lubricate the Regulator Piston with
AUTOLUBE .
(3) Reinstall the Regulator Piston in the Regulator
Body.

7. Lubricate the Regulator Nut with graphite grease
occasionally.

8. Lubricate the Regulator Spring Pack as follows:

a. During disassembly of the Regulator:
(1) Remove the Regulator Spring Pack.
(a) Do not adjust.
(b) Lubricate the Regulator Spring Pack with
AUTOLUBE.

9. Lubricate the metal parts as follows:

a. During general cleaning:
(1) De-gas the paintball gun.
(2) Field strip the paintball gun.
(3) Clean all exposed metal surfaces.
(4) Lightly lubricate all exposed metal surfaces with
light weight gun oil.
(5) Reassemble the paintball gun.

CAUTION

Lubricants other than the
AUTOLUBE supplied may break down
the Foamie on the Bolt.

b. Monthly:
(1) De-gas the paintball gun.
(2) Field strip the paintball gun.
(3) Spray AUTOLUBE into the two holes on the bottom
of Valve Body marked OIL.
(4) Reassemble the paintball gun.

Replacing the Foamie

10. To replace the Foamie:

a. De-gas the paintball gun.
b. Field strip the paintball gun.
c. Slide the Bolt from the Power Tube.
d. Scrape all residue of the old Foamie with a Knife from
the front of the Bolt.
e. Clean the Bolt front with alcohol or acetone to remove
old glue.

NOTE

Many brands of nail polish
remover contain acetone.

f. Glue the new Foamie to the front of the Bolt using a
commercial super glue according to the glue
manufacturer s instructions.

Adjusting the Nubbin

11. To adjust the Nubbin:

a. Safety the paintball gun.
b. Remove the Barrel from the Main Body.

NOTE

Hold the paintball gun up to
prevent paintballs from falling
out of the paintball gun if the
Loader is still attached.

c. Slide the Barrel O-rings out of barrel grooves and off
the Nubbin.

NOTE

It is not necessary to remove the
Barrel O-rings completely from
the Barrel.

d. Gently remove the Nubbin from the Nubbin groove on the
upper surface of the Barrel.
e. Bend the Nubbin in or out as required; In if the
paintball gun is double feeding or Out if the paint is
not feeding.

NOTES

1. When adjusting the Nubbin,
maintain the V-shape by bending
both sides of the V with needle
nose pliers.

2. A properly adjusted Nubbin
protrudes about 1-1/2 to 2
thickness of a matchbook cover
into the breech.

f. Weave the Nubbin back into the nubbin groove.
g. Slide the Barrel O-rings down into the O-ring grooves
to hold the Nubbin in place.
h. Install the Barrel into the Main Body.

Disassembly of the 68AUTOMAG

12. To disassemble completely:

a. Safety the paintball gun.
b. Unload the paintball gun.
c. Disengage the safety.
d. De-gas the paintball gun.
e. Remove the Barrel and set aside.
f. Field strip the paintball gun.
g. Slide the Bolt off the Power Tube and set aside the
Bolt.
h. Unscrew the Regulator from the Valve Body and set aside
the Regulator.

CAUTION

Do NOT damage the Regulator Valve
Spring on the front of the
Regulator Valve. The Regulator
Valve Spring must fit into the
centre passage on the rear face
of the Valve Body to seal the
Regulator from the Air Source.


i. Pull the Regulator Valve with Regulator Valve Spring
gently from the Valve Body and set the Regulator Valve
and Regulator Valve Spring aside.
j. Unscrew the two screws holding the Back Bottle Adapter
to the Rail and remove the Back Bottle Adapter.
k. Unscrew the Front Frame Screw from the Frame.
l. Lift the Main Body off the Rail.

CAUTION

Do NOT lose the Safety Spring or
Safety Detent Ball from Frame.
If either is missing, the safety
will be ineffective.

m. Remove the Frame from the Rail.
n. Remove the Sear with Trigger Rod attached out of the
Rail by lifting the Sear Pin free from the channel in
the Rail and pulling upwards.

Disassembly of the Regulator

13. To disassemble the Regulator:

a. De-gas the paintball gun.
b. Field strip the paintball gun.
c. Unscrew the Regulator from the Valve Body.
d. Remove the Regulator Seal from the front face of the
Regulator.

WARNING

Debris on the Regulator Seal may
cause the Regulator to leak
slowly or cause the paintball gun
to shoot at a high velocity. The
higher than normal velocity of
the paintball may injure other
players if hit.

(1) Examine the Regulator Seal for cleanliness or
wear.
(2) Clean the Regulator Seal or replace if necessary.

WARNING

Do NOT disassemble the Regulator
Nut while the paintball gun is
under pressure.

e. Unscrew the Regulator Nut.
f. Remove the Regulator Spring Pack.
(1) Do not adjust.
(2) Lubricate the Regulator Spring Pack with
AUTOLUBE .
g. Remove the Regulator Piston by either pushing the
Regulator Piston out using a straightened paper clip
through the front face of the Regulator Body or hooking
the Regulator Piston from the back.
(1) Examine the Regulator Piston for cleanliness.
(2) Clean and grease lightly the Regulator Piston
every few months with AUTOLUBE .

NOTES

1. Dirt on the Regulator
Piston will cause the Regulator
Piston to wedge in the Regulator
Body and give erratic performance
of the paintball gun.

2. The Blow Off Valve is not
adjustable. The Blow Off Valve
is set to vent automatically at
550 psi which translates into a
paintball velocity of
approximately 340 fps.

Disassembly of the Power Tube

14. To disassemble the Power Tube:

a. De-gas the paintball gun.
b. Field strip the paintball gun.
c. Slide the Bolt from the Power Tube.
d. Remove the Power Tube Bumper from the Power Tube.
(1) Examine the Power Tube Bumper for cleanliness and
wear.
(2) Clean the Power Tube Bumper or replace if
necessary.

e. Unscrew the Power Tube Insert using a coin.
(1) Examine the Power Tube Insert O-ring for
cleanliness and wear.
(2) Clean the Power Tube Insert O-ring or replace if
necessary.

NOTE

The Power Tube Insert O-ring is
an inactive O-ring and unlikely
to require replacement. If no
spare is available, the Power
Tube Insert O-ring may be swapped
with the other o-rings.

f. Remove the Power Tube Spring.
(1) Examine the Power Tube Spring for cleanliness and
wear.
(2) Clean the Power Tube Spring or replace if
necessary.

g. Remove the Power Tube O-ring.
(1) Examine the Power Tube O-ring for cleanliness and
wear.
(2) Clean the Power Tube O-ring or replace if
necessary.

NOTE

The Power Tube O-ring is an
active O-ring. It is the o-ring
most likely to require
replacement due to wear. If no
spare is available, the Power
Tube O-ring may be swapped with
other o-rings.

Disassembly of the Valve Body

15. To disassemble the Valve Body:

a. De-gas the paintball gun.
b. Field strip the paintball gun.
c. Turn the Valve Body over so that the bottom is facing
up.
d. Pull the On/Off Valve Assembly out of the Valve Body
Hole.

NOTE

Normally the On/Off Top, the
Valve Body Hole Large O-ring and
the Valve Body Hole Small O-ring
will remain in the Valve Body
Hole.

e. Tip the Valve Body over and shake the On/Off Top gently
from the Valve Body Hole.

NOTE

It may be necessary to pull the
On/Off Top from the Valve Body
Hole if shaking will not remove
the On/Off Top.

f. Pull the Valve Body Hole Large O-ring and the Valve
Body Hole Small O-ring gently from the Valve Body Hole
using a hooked object.
(1) Examine the O-rings for cleanliness and wear.
(2) Clean the O-rings or replace if necessary.

NOTES

1. The Valve Body Hole Small
O-ring is an active O-ring. It
is likely to require replacement
due to wear. If no spare is
available, the Valve Body Hole
Small O-ring may be swapped with
other o-rings.

2. The Valve Body Hole Large
O-ring is an inactive O-ring. It
is unlikely to require
replacement due to wear. If no
spare is available, the Valve
Body Hole Large O-ring may be
swapped with the other o-rings.


g. Pull the On/Off Pin from the On/Off Bottom.
h. Pull the On/Off Bottom Small O-ring from the On/Off
Bottom gently using a hooked object.
(1) Examine the On/Off Bottom Small O-ring for
cleanliness and wear.
(2) Clean the On/Off Bottom Small O-ring or replace
if necessary.

NOTE

The On/Off Bottom Small O-ring is
an inactive O-ring. It is
unlikely to require replacement
due to wear. If no spare is
available, the On/Off Bottom
Small O-ring may be swapped with
the other o-rings (See Figure 2-7).

i. Pull the On/Off Bottom Large O-ring from the On/Off
Bottom gently using a hooked object.
(1) Examine the On/Off Bottom Large O-ring for
cleanliness and wear.
(2) Clean the On/Off Bottom Large O-ring or replace
if necessary.

NOTE

The On/Off Bottom Large O-ring
is an inactive O-ring. It is
unlikely to require replacement
due to wear. If no spare is
available, the On/Off Bottom
Large O-ring may be swapped with
the other o-rings (See Figure 2-7).


Assembly of the Valve Body

16. To assemble the Valve Body:

a. Slip the On/Off Bottom Large O-ring into position on
the On/Off Bottom.
b. Lay the On/Off Bottom Small O-ring on a flat clean
surface.
c. Press the On/Off Bottom gently over the On/Off Bottom
Small O-ring to seat the O-ring.
d. Insert the On/Off Pin upward through the On/Off Bottom
and the On/Off Bottom Small O-ring.

NOTES

1. It may be necessary to
stretch very slightly the On/Off
Bottom Small O-ring to let the
On/Off Pin through it. If so,
insert the On/Off Pin down
through the On/Off Bottom Small
O-ring first, wiggle the pin
gently and then remove the pin.

2. A properly installed On/Off
Pin has the notched end sitting
below the On/Off Bottom. The
smooth end of the On/Off Pin
projects up through the On/Off
Bottom Small O-ring.

CAUTION

Do NOT change the size of the
notches in the On/Off Top. The
notches have been optimized for
proper gas flow and paintball gun
performance. Altering the size
will not improve paintball gun
performance.

e. Place the On/Off Top, notched face down, onto the
On/Off Pin.
f. Place the Valve Body Hole Small O-ring onto the On/Off
Pin.
g. Drop the Valve Body Hole Large O-ring into the Valve
Body Hole.

NOTE

There is an assembly diagram
laser engraved on the Valve Body
to show the proper assembly order
of the On/Off Valve Assembly.

h. Insert the On/Off Valve Assembly into the Valve Body
Hole.

Assembly of the Power Tube

17. To assemble the Power Tube:

CAUTION

Lubricants other than the
AUTOLUBE supplied may break down
the Foamie on the Bolt.

a. Lightly lubricate the Power Tube O-ring with AUTOLUBE .
b. Drop the Power Tube O-ring into the Power Tube.
c. Place the Power Tube Spring into the Power Tube.

NOTE

The flattest ground end of the
Power Tube Spring should rest
against the Power Tube O-ring.

d. Slide the Power Tube Insert O-ring into position over
the threads of the Power Tube Insert.

CAUTION

Do NOT strip the threads by over
tightening the Power Tube Insert.

e. Screw the Power Tube Insert into the Power Tube.
f. Slide the Power Tube Bumper down over the Power Tube to
rest against the front face of the Valve Body.

Assembly of the Regulator

18. To assemble the Regulator:

a. Clean and lubricate the Regulator Piston with (???)
lubricant.
b. Slide the Regulator Piston, solid face down, into the
Regulator Body.
c. Lubricate the Regulator Spring Pack with (???)
lubricant.
d. Slide the Regulator Spring Pack, large washer first,
into the Regulator Body.
e. Screw in the Regulator Nut until snug.
f. Snap the Regulator Seal into the face of the threaded
end of the Regulator Body.

NOTES

1. The Regulator Seal is cut
with the edges slightly bevelled.
The slightly larger face snaps
into the Regulator Body to hold
the seal in place.

2. The Regulator Seal can be
reversed and carefully assembled
if a problem develops and no
replacement is available.

CAUTION

Do NOT damage the Regulator Valve
Spring on the front of the
Regulator Valve. The Regulator
Valve Spring must fit into the
centre passage on the rear face
of the Valve Body to seal the
Regulator from the Air Source.

g. Slide the Regulator Valve with Regulator Valve Spring,
pin first, into the centre of the Regulator Seal.

NOTE

The head of the Regulator Valve
should be 1/16 of an inch above
the Regulator Seal when properly
assembled.

Assembly of the 68AUTOMAG

19. To assemble the 68AUTOMAG

a. Fit the Sear Pin into the channel cut in the Rail to
place the Sear with Trigger Rod back into the Rail.

CAUTION

The Trigger Rod must be
underneath the Safety Pin for the
safety to function properly.

b. Feed the Trigger Rod into the Frame, back to front, so
that tip of the Trigger Rod pokes out just behind the
Trigger.

CAUTION

Do NOT lose the Safety Spring or
Safety Detent Ball from the
Frame. If either is missing, the
safety will be ineffective.

c. Fit the Frame up to the bottom of the Rail.
d. Line up the spot welded nut on the Main Body to the
hole cut in the Rail to seat the Main Body into the
Rail.

NOTE

Check that the Main Body is
seated well down in the Rail with
only small gaps between the Main
Body and the Rail.

e. Insert and tighten the Front Frame Screw into the
Frame.
f. Attach the Back Bottle Adapter onto the rear of the
Rail using the two screws.
g. Reassemble the Regulator.
h. Reassemble the Valve Body.
i. Reassemble the Power Tube.

CAUTION

Do NOT damage the Regulator Valve
Spring on the front of the
Regulator Valve. The Regulator
Valve Spring must fit into the
centre passage on the rear face
of the Valve Body to seal the
Regulator from the Air Source.

j. Screw the Regulator and Valve Body together until the
68AUTOMAG logo lines up.
k. Slide the Bolt over the Power Tube.

NOTE

The Bolt sits just slightly above
the Power Tube Bumper when the
Power Tube is assembled
correctly.

l. Guide the Regulator, Valve Body and Bolt forward on the
Rail until the Regulator Body Detent Pin enters the
Z-shaped Slot.
m. Hold the Trigger down and guide the Regulator, Valve
Body and Bolt forward into the Main Body.
n. Release the Trigger.
o. Push the rear of the Regulator forward and insert the
Field Strip Screw into the Frame, Rail and Valve Body.
p. Hand tighten the Field Strip Screw until snug against
the underside of the Frame.
q. Insert the Barrel.



PART 5 - TESTING AND DEBUGGING THE 68AUTOMAG

Testing and Debugging Problems

20. To test and debug continuous barrel leaks:

a. Dry fire the paintball gun and hold the Trigger down
for 15 seconds.
b. Listen for CO2 spurting out of the Barrel.

NOTE

The sound is similar to that made
by a pulsing lawn sprinkler

c. If the noise is heard:
(1) De-gas the paintball gun,
(2) Field strip the paintball gun,
(3) Remove the On/Off Valve Assembly,
(4) Replace the Valve Body Hole Small O-ring,
(5) Reassemble the paintball gun.

d. Gas up the paintball gun.
e. Release the Trigger.
f. Listen for CO2 leaking from the Barrel.
g. If the paintball gun is still leaking:
(1) De-gas the paintball gun,
(2) Field strip the paintball gun,
(3) Remove the Bolt from the Power Tube,
(4) Disassemble the Power Tube,
(5) Replace the Power Tube O-ring or both the Power
Tube O-ring and the Power Tube Spring,
(6) Reassemble the paintball gun.


21. To test and debug CO2 leaking out of the Regulator Nut,
overspeed shots or erratic shot velocity:

a. De-gas the paintball gun.
b. Field strip the paintball gun.
c. Unscrew the Regulator from the Valve Body.
d. Clean or replace the Regulator Seal.

NOTES

1. The Regulator Seal is cut
with the edges slightly bevelled.
The slightly larger face snaps
into the Regulator Body to hold
the seal in place.

2. The Regulator Seal can be
reversed and carefully assembled
if a problem develops and no
replacement is available.

CAUTION

Do NOT damage the pin on the rear
of the Regulator Valve. The pin
must fit into the centre passage
of the Regulator Seal to seal the
Regulator from the Air Source.

e. Screw the Regulator onto the Valve Body.
f. Reassemble the paintball gun.


22. To test and debug bolt stick:

a. Remove the Barrel.
b. Apply light pressure to the Bolt with a wooden rod.
c. Dry fire the paintball gun.

NOTE

This will cause the paintball gun
to misfire and create high
residual pressure. If something
is wrong, the Bolt will stick and
the Trigger will not come
forward.

d. If bolt stick occurs and causes the Trigger to hang:

(1) De-gas the paintball gun,
(2) Field strip the paintball gun,
(3) Remove the Bolt from the Power Tube,
(4) Disassemble the Power Tube,
(5) Replace the Power Tube Spring,
(6) Reassemble the paintball gun.


Adjusting the Trigger Takeup

23. To adjust the trigger takeup:

CAUTION

Do NOT adjust the trigger takeup
unless required to debug the
paintball gun. Altering the
trigger pull may lower paintball
gun performance.

a. De-gas the paintball gun.
b. Completely disassemble the paintball gun.
c. Gently unscrew the Trigger Rod counterclockwise from
the connection with the Sear.

NOTE

Move the Trigger Rod just enough
to make the gap between the
Trigger Rod and Trigger paper
thin (See Figure 5-1).

d. Reassemble the paintball gun.

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 10:20 pm
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
X-Mod info:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... -2012-User


Changes between revisions:

;* Revisions
;*06.18.2006 XMOD BETA 1.8
;* If the EEPROM is reset due to corruption the display brightness will be reset in all cases
;* Ramp Start is an option with hardware programming.
;* Top Button now cancels Boot message early
;* 04.15.2006 XMOD BETA 1.7
;* Fixed PR-T mode to never display more than ROF
;* Fixed all Numbers so they do not display a leading zero
;* 03.29.2006 XMOD BETA 1.6.1
;* Fixed EEPROM resetting when any value was cycled
;* Fixed goofy characters that were being displayed when PR-T mode was first enabled.
;* 03.23.2006 XMOD BETA 1.6
;* Fixed Solid pull of solenoid when Low Battery allert did come on
;* Fixed Low Battery Message (It wasn't working)
;* Added Self healing EEPROM (after corruption)
;* Renamed all code with DB or DBounce to FIX
;* Created DISPLAY_ONLY and VALUE_OFFSET_1
;* Changed numbers to be single digits
;* Increased max FIX to 95
;* Added MIL MODE
;* 12.31.2005 XMOD BETA 1.5
;* Increased DLAY max from 3 to 8
;* Smoothed out PSP ramping
;* Eliminated Display.inc line 140
;* 12.24.2005 XMOD BETA 1.4
;* Changed bottom button counter to use XH,XL instead of YH,YL so ACE can be toggled in PR-T mode
;* Added Option to turn Solenoid off in PR-T mode
;* Changed Functionality of PR-T mode to save value after last trigger pull
;* Fixed all catastrophic bugs in PR-T mode(Display still goes goofy sometimes but it doesn't affect anything else)
;* Uncommented Power Saver
;* 12.18.2005 XMOD BETA 1.3
;* Added PR-T mode
;* 12.17.2005 XMOD BETA 1.2
;* Changed Automatic warp advance in Modes.inc to use an rcall(Saves Code, while adding 3 cycles to a trigger pull)
;* Added Fried Board Test
;* Changed Optns to r17 (Adjusted EEPROM to reflect)
;* Commented Power Saver
;* Commented Sleep Mode
;* 12.15.2005 XMOD BETA 1.1
;* Added Sleep Mode
;* Added Power Saver
;* Increased nop's from 2 to 4 in manual warp advance
;* 12.12.2005 XMOD BETA 1.0
;* See PDF for full list of features


http://www.automags.org/forums/showthre ... -(OFFICIAL)&p=2825734#post2825734

Attached are the user manuals for XMOD.

1. User Guide
Description: The most up to date User Guide.
Version: 0.6 Filesize: 680.23 Kb
Added on: 12-May-2006 Downloads: 1356
HomePage | Rate Resource | Report Broken Link | Details

2. Bounce Table
Description: Show dynamically how your FIX needs to be adjusted at each ROF to eliminate bouncing problems and/or the full auto bug as a function of the dwell. Requires Microsoft Excel.
This File is included as an attachment in the User Guide.
Version: none Filesize: 3.70 Kb
Added on: 29-Apr-2006 Downloads: 425
HomePage | Rate Resource | Report Broken Link | Details

3. Custom Character Form
Description: If you want to have a custom boot message scroll across your display when you turn on your gun and you want to have a symbol that is not a standard character you can download this for to create the cusom characters and see what they will look like. Simply save and email me the form when when you are done and I will be able to add your customizations. Please read the Customization section of the manual for more information and pricing. Required Microsoft Excel.
This File is included as an attachment in the User Guide.
Version: none Filesize: 9.59 Kb
Added on: 29-Apr-2006 Downloads: 267
HomePage | Rate Resource | Report Broken Link | Details

4. Old STK500 Installation
Description: Old Installation instructions for STK500 and AVRISP (Atmel serial programmers) only.
Version: obsolete Filesize: 247.58 Kb
Added on: 29-Apr-2006 Downloads: 167
HomePage | Rate Resource | Report Broken Link | Details

Re: AGD AutoMag

Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:22 pm
by THE JEW (RaVeN)
MCB Automag manual section:
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/manuals/#AGD