KalNet Message Board

Ok so if I want I can simply add the entire brass weight and just plug it with the bumper and no plastic sleeve?

Yes

Or will the entire brass piece not fit in all the way? And I will have to trim it down.

It will fit

So I could just use the entire weight then simply adjust my lpr as low as it will go?

Yes, but I recommend about 40psi for consistency

So this system is desighned to be used with no weigh,in witch you can add as much weight as you need,to increase your lpr increasing efficiency??? Would that be what a higher lpr pressure wouldd do?and to simply install the ram without weight would give the softest shot with sacrifice to efficiency?

The efficiency should be good as long as dwell isn't too high. I like less weight in my ram for gen4s

Or is the ram desighned to be installed empty first with the addition of the lighter popet spring first and then you gradually add the weight untill the gun is able to chrono at the required velocity,as well as the most consistent operations of the internals as in most consistent Fps?

I just try to tune them without any weight and if it's no cooperating i drop the weight in

Now I can't find the softer popet spring in the bag here containing my ram kit,I thought the gen4 ram included one?

It absolutely should include a cut spring with about 7 coils

I cant get the brass weight out of mine is there a way to get it out ??

bang it on a table to get it flush, then whip it to the carpet with centrifugal force. Inelegant but it works for me, the vacuum is serious.

Lol....that's what I've been dealing with,not that I stuck the brass weight all the way in since test fitting the brass weight in half way,and seeing how tight the bore was allowing the weight to get stuck in the bolts bore.So what I've been thinking about before inserting the weight all the way in the ram,was too maby chuck the brass weight in a drill and slightly sanding it down to reduce the diameter of it so that I can insert it without it getting stuck in the ram...lol..that way the brass weight can be added in peices or the whole thing to achieve the desired weight.

I also found the the tolorence between the brass weight and the internal bore of the ram is so tight that there is also a vacume effect when you try to pull the brass weight out causing the brass weight to get sucked in as you pull it out

Since you stuck the weight all the way in,try putting some crazy glue on the tip of a piece of macroline,and try to glue it to the brass weight after cleaning the front of the weight and the macro with alchahol so the macro sticks to the weight and gently pull
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen4 View Post
Hi Lurker I'm having a problem

I installed the ram,and with the ram adjustment screw backed out as far as it will go on the ram cap,the bolt is not able to go far enough back to allow a ball to drop in the chamber

With the ram cap adjustment screw backed out all the way,I was able to jst get the ball to drop in the breach after I give it a push

Obviously it must be the much thicker bumper in the back but I don't seem to see any treads with people with the same trouble so is it a defect?

For Gen4 you need to cut off the large part of the bumper, the ram is universal to the gen3 as well, so that's why this modification is needed. No defect. I think this is in the manual, but I may have left it out.

You can't really see it that well here but the wires are soldered directly to the back of the membrane stock connector.

~~~~*~~~SOLUTION 1~~~*~~~~

tools needed for first solution: anything that can conduct electricty, and the tools u use to get to ur board

step 1: take out ur pad membrane if it crapped out, or even if one or two buttons dont work

step 2:now take ur conductor or w/e u use that can concuct electricty. i used the glasses screw, the tiny ones that u can get real cheap at any like, supermarket as an impulse buy item.

step 3: now turn ur board around so u see this...

-~-~-~->PIC, too big and killed margins so i put it into a link instead<~-~-~-

step 4: take ur conductor, and if u want to turn on ur gun, touch the first 2 prongs together. thats button on/off. the 3rd and 4th prong go together as button 1, and the 5th and 6th prongs go together as button 2. touch the prongs together accordingly, u can see i used paint on the picture to make it a bit more clearer rite under step 3


u shuld do it like this, just touch the prongs together

this is just like the matrix solution of a crapped out membrane, now dont throw ur membrane away!!!! solution 2 shuld fix it

---***___SOLUTION 2___***---

now take a close look at ur membrane pad. the tip in which goes into the board and look at the black stripes. those are kinda like the wires in which the signals run along when u hit a button. if u look, theyre probally a bit faded, thats why ur pad membrane crapped out. the signals arent going to your board. dont fret!!! i came up with a solution for this too, this is very simple. take scisscors, or an exactoknife or something super sharp so that u can make fine cuts. just slice off the end. simple as that. heres a pic also


if u can see the cut off part, the black strips are somewhat faded. thats why mine was crappin out, wasnt conducting right

please feel free to leave any comments, sorry if this is old news, just lmk if it is. and leave me with any mistakes i made exept for spelling cause i know i made a few gramatical errors but im too lazy to go back and check it all. pbn shuld have spell check, lol. of you have any questions, post here also, ill try to help with anything u got. ive had lots of experience with timmys. and i hope this gets stickied cause its very helpful to those who got crapped out membranes cause theyre not cheap and hard to find a place that sells them IN STOCK. everywhere i go, they out of stock. thanks

You can manipulate your 2k2 board without a membrane pad or in an emergency when your membrane isn't working. You will need to short the pins on the 3 prong connector (yellow/green wire) on your 2k2 12pt wiring harness such as this:

Information provided by lopez17:

1. Take an allen wrench (not on a tool) and push it across the three pins and this will act as if you're depressing both buttons (to get it into programming mode)

2. To activate the right or left button you'll need to short the middle pin AND either the right or left pin depending on what you try to do.

Tip:
Quote:
Originally Posted by lopez17
I usually put the allen wrench in between the two prongs and touch them quickly. If you leave it on there it'll cycle through the menu options or jack up the settings quite quickly. You'll have to be patient but it's a neat trick if your membrane isn't functional.
Use this method to program your board in a pinch or determine if your membrane pad is faulty.

I emailed critical, about an hour later I got a reply.

James M. from critical said "The size of the screw is a 6/32 thread and the length is 5/16"

Stem on stock poppet is brass. LP poppet is silver.

M3 X .5 to be exact.

1/2-20 ram cap thread

No idea, on the connector model, I just clipped mine from a 2k2 harness and dead humphrey 'noid. Make sure to run a capacitor with the Mac43 If you're using the a frenzy board, I'm running a 2200uf cap on my UTB setup.

It actually allows you to lower your HPR.
If you sweetspot your regs, then it will indirectly allow you to lower your lpr, but it is designed to reduce the high pressure input.

The best use i have seen for them is in conjunction with an eigenram. I have had a couple of timmys that would not get above 280ish with the eigenram. I put a volumizer on there and got better than 300.

On a stock dark I had, it allowed me to sweetspot my lpr to 65 with no fsdo.

Building a Timmy? Read this.
This is a guide on how to build your own intimidator, it will cover:

A) Why Build

B) Where to start

C) Prices and hunting for deals

D) Useful links to places that sell useful items

E) Parts needed

F) Customization and making yours one of a kind

G) Closing Comments

H) People who can help/helped me

I) My gun and parts I find excellent

WARNING!!!!!! I am not responsible for anything that goes wrong with your gun. Everything in here is a suggestion. I am not endorsing any place or person of business. I still would recommend people to buy guns normally, this can get pretty messy if you are clueless. Read carefully and enjoy building your gun.

Section A= Why Build

Why build? Because its fun and the girls will be all over you.

Before you commit to building your own Intimidator, ask yourself why. What is the advantage? Do I have the funds and more importantly, the time? Am I doing this to increase my knowledge and skill? Is it going to cost me more than a used one? Will I be able to build it? Plus its fun!

These questions are just a few of the many you should be asking yourself. There a are three big items that can cause a conflict here.

1)Time= Do you have it? Do you need a gun before HB? Can you commit to building your gun or will it be a bunch of parts lying on your desk for 3 months? We all lead hectic lives at times, between everything, can you take time out to search for key parts and buy them?

2) Money= Pretty self explanitory, money is what you need to get parts, of course. The advantage to building is that you can control the amount that goes into the gun at one time. Instead of blowing 500$ at once, you spend 20here and there. Doing this project is NOT cost effective.

3) Skill= Do you have the knowledge and ability to do this? This is your project, the last thing a busy tech wants is a failed timmy you couldn't build. There's no point in building a gun if you can't do it yourself.

The main reason that lead me to build was customization and creative control. I hate getting a gun in trades and not having a color scheme or parts that I want. Doing this will give you the chance to control and carefully pick out parts that will fit your needs, leaving more money to you in some cases.

Section B= Where to start

Before you even start looking at bodies, frames, etc. Get a good working knowledge of what you are about to do. Read anything and everything you can. Stickies, reviews, faq's, they are all key. Ask questions, know what parts work where and why, know what parts to stay clear from.

Next, start getting a plan together. Get a visual image of what you want. Use photoshop, read through the picture threads to see what works and get some ideas, go out and play and see what people have. A plan usually changes shape and form by the time you are done, some things don't work out.Try to see if this is something you want to be annodized or milled, thats a different topic.

The most important step is to decide what GEN Timmy you are building, this is the basis or "theme" upon which you are working on.

Quick rundown of GENs: (Blast only)
GEN1= Ripper1's, Classic's
GEN2= 2k2's,ECx's,GZ's,Z,Dragon Species, Texas Storm's,etc.
GEN3= Empire1's, Alias,ND,RussianL,Lasoya2,Ripper2,Ripper2.5,etc.
GEN4= Infamous,Empire2(As of March 2006, I have not seen much in the way of building one of these)

You can build one of these, or a combo or none. There are a few aftermarket bodies that are non Blast. Once you chosen your type and "theme", you can begin the fun.

Section C= Pieces and hunting for parts

Having a well thought out, working gun will depend ont his step. Every part,component has a function and must be considered carefully. I bounced back and forth on so many things, its insane. Some parts are very hard to find, new or used. Sometimes you must sacrifice a part because of price or availabilty.

Patience and staying the course are key. When cruising the web, its very easy to "impulse buy" something. I went through 5 bodies before finding the one for me, I almost bought something I didn't want. Don't feel pressured to buy something you don't want, thats how the seller wins.

When buying used, the first thing you do is check out if its a legit sale and if the seller's legit. Getting scammed out of 400$ for a Ripper2 body isn't fun. Be wary of sellers who are pushy and won't talk to you other than basic costs. Not everyone has time to talk about a 10$ ramcap, but if your buying a body or frame, make sure you keep in contact. If you don't have any feedback, don't demand anything, thats not how it works. Be considerate and poilte.(This has no relation to the gun, just a tip)

Buying new is a different story, there are many online stores that sell many Intimidator parts at fair prices and will be excellent places to buy from. Keep an eye on stock availability and prices. As with buying that new camera or TV, keep a list of different prices and sales. Don't be hit with heavy shipping charges either, some places charge WAY too much for shipping.

By being patient and careful, you can pick good parts and not waste money. Its possible to get a cost effective gun, you just have to be smart.

Section D= Places to buy online
DISCLAIMER: I am not endorsed by any person of store. This is strickly on a personal basis. I have used most of these places or have heard many, many good things about them.

www.ebay.com
www.criticalpaintball.com
www.paintballkingdom.com
www.pbgear.com
www.Pevs.com
www.PBNation.com
www.PBReview.com
www.thetimmystore.com
www.pbwarehouse.net
www.assassinspaintball.com
www.markerkits.com
www.paintballmedic.com

You can buy from anywhere you want to. These places have a good product list to scan for items.

Section E= Parts list(screws and o-ring sizes when I find them)

Body
Ram,Ram cap, Ramsleeve
LPR, LPR Block, Guage
HPR
Frame,Frame Electronics,Board,Membrane/buttons,Eyes,Grips,Trigger Guard,Trigger,Trigger Screw
Feedneck
Ball Detents,Eye covers
Bolt
Solenoid,Barbs,Hosing
O-rings,Screws
ASA of some kind for tank
Tank
Hopper
Barrel
Paint

Quality parts from...
Blast(DUH)
AIM(the bodies aren't bad)
AKA
Hybrid
CP

Section F= Customization

One of the biggest thrills and "honors" of doing this is the chance to make yours like non other. Everyone has their own vision of what they want, so this guide won't give tips on how to. Annodizing and milling can give your gun new life and make it 1 of a kind. You can also make your own customizations.
The simplest way to customize is to give your gun a name.
I've seen a know of good anno'ing from Absolute finish, Precision PB and PBcustomz. You may want to check them out or look around for yourself.

Section G= Closing Comments

I hope this guide gives you, the reader and builder a glimpse into the world of the custom Intimidator. I still recommend that most people buy the regular way, pre-built. Have fun, be safe and toss some paint in your gun! There's nothing fun about having it in your shelf or gearbag and it not getting some!

Section H= Props

These guys helped me in someway somehow, I'd like to thank them.
Paintballer187
Paintballer8869
Crankwalk
Play_Front- Makes his timmies better than any I've shot
Lopez17- my "mentor" and a really cool guy
Bob Long and Blast for fixing a few parts and making the Intimidator.
Ladd17- Gave me some inspiration from his gun.
PBNATION, Intimidatorowners.com, and PBREVIEW

Section I= My gun(thought I'd share)



Took me about 2 months to build, overall cost, under $600. I had a board, reg and lpr already. I call it the "Magnum".

Specs: Alias body, 05 Bl frame, Frenzy 127.5c,Cp slingblade,kila detents,2-liter,Gen4 timmy eyes, empire ram and ram cap,cp barrel,hybrid rail and on/off,hardshell bolt, alias trigger guard. 2k5 lasoya LPR,redz feedneck,GEN6 hybrid grips.

I like using AKA regs, cp and hybrid parts, for the most part, they are all good quality and come in a variety of colors and sizes. I might annodize it 100% gloss blue one day, but for now, looking for ways to make it more unique.


If you find this helpful or find it terrible, let me know. Please feel free to leave feedback!

If you can fit an .050" allen key through the barb, it is high flow. However, for maximum flow, you want a barb which will fit a 1/16" allen key (as pictured)! These are the same inner diameter as Hybrid "Hyper Flow" barbs, for max flow.

Threads are 3mm-.5 to be exact. Most of the time you just see M3 threaded barbs. I just said this in case they have 3mm-1 and 3mm-.5
I also doubt ACE will have them.