KalNet Message Board

Solinoid Disassembly guide from ICDO
Was looking around on the ICD owners web sight and came across this. I actually just went tearing into my marqs noid (had some gunk on the piston causing a leak, very rare but it happens)

The noid ICD used is the same (or very very similar) as the marq noid (and alot of other BL guns). I know the Intimidator section has a thread on this but its not near as good and the pics are not showing up.

Keep in mind this is from a Promaster forum so the noid has barbs on it instead of being directly mounted like Bob long markers.

http://www.icd-owners.com/html/index.ph ... ic&t=15642

I'm posting these photos for those of you want a reference when breaking down / taking apart / servicing / disassembling the Humphrey solenoid HEA10F5-GL-101W.

USE THESE PICTURES AS A REFERENCE ONLY

These are some pictures I took during a recent disassembly of my Promaster solenoid. This particular ‘noid does not fire at a regular dwell setting. I’m not sure of the exact cause of this, but I believe that the damage from one of the grip frame screws warped the pilot section ever so slightly to make it harder for the electrical impules to translate into kinetic energy. This particular solenoid will cycle the marker like normal at dwell settings of 20-25 ms on a Promaster. This is not the normal operating condition though. Promasters are meant to have a dwell of 6-10ms. Again, I am not sure if this particular solenoid is faulty is due to damage from a grip frame screw or, perharps, just excess Dow 33.


The picture below is just an example of how I would place grip frame screws as to not potentially damage a solenoid. The one on the top is just the right length so as not to contact the solenoid when screwed in. The screw on the bottom should only be used for the bottom of the grip frame. It is long enough to contact the solenoid if screwed into the top section and may in fact render your solenoid faulty like the one shown in this guide. Here is a thread where some major grip frame screw damage occurred. This is an extreme example.
http://www.icd-owners.com/html/index.ph ... valve+leak

Also here is Fivestring's problem with a faulty noid detailed here. I think he ended up swapping the pilot section from a BKO noid and that fixed the problem.
http://www.icd-owners.com/html/index.ph ... ic&t=14082

NOTICE: PLEASE READ FIRST IF YOU THINK YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH YOUR SOLENOID NOT CYCLING
If you are having problems with your solenoid/marker not cycling normally via the trigger, I recommend you first depress the red manual over-ride button on the top on the noid WHILE YOUR MARKER IS GASSED UP AND UNDER PRESSURE. I have found that this will cure most non-cycle issues. To do this you will need to take off the right(smaller) hand side of the clamshell gripframe. All other pieces need to be in place and screwed down. Gas the marker up, make sure the breech is clear of any paintballs or other objects and depress the red button. This should cycle(fire) the marker. Before you put the marker back together, I would turn the marker on in dry fire mode and cycle the marker via trigger to verify the marker works normally. If your solenoid continues to give you problems(i.e. not cycle the spool properly via trigger even though you hear the noid 'click') you may have to clean off your spool, in which case you should proceed only through stage one. Any servicing past stage one is asking for trouble. Please proceed at your own risk.
Here is a photo showing how you would have a Promaster set up to depress the red button. Keep in mind I don't have an HPR in this photo, you will need yours if you are to perform this operation.



Before you go tearing into your solenoid, I recommend you familiarize yourself with some basic solenoid anatomy via these links.
Here’s a link to some diagrams showing the schematics of Humphrey solenoids.
http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/solenoids_humphrey.html

This is a page that helped me learn about general Humphrey solenoid service, although it differs slightly from the one shown here in that it features the breakdown of a Shocker noid.
http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/shocke ... phrey.html

I am by no means an authority on servicing solenoids, but before you attempt this you should find a nice level workspace with good lighting. These solenoids have very tiny pieces that, if lost, will render you with a useless piece of plastic with a magnet in it. I recommend working on a paper towel or some other medium that prevent things from rolling off.


Recommended tools
-Small Phillips Screwdriver
-Paper Towel
-Toothpick
-Dow 33 or Superlube

Here’s the label side up
Pic #1




2Here’s the label side down with damage to the noid from the grip frame screw shown. We are going to start by removing the end part on the left hand side of the noid on the picture below.
Pic #2




STAGE 1: Unscrew the two small screws on the endplate. (section opposite the label side) Note, the spool is flush with the end.
Pic #3




To get the spool out, I gently shove a toothpick down the hole labeled #5 and wiggle it around. This should push the spool out enough to be able to grab with your fingertips.
Pic #4




You should wipe the spool down with a clean paper towel and lightly re-apply a small amount of Dow 33 or Superlube as needed. Inspect the inside of the chamber where the spool resides and remove anything that might prevent the spool from moving freely. You could use a twisted up piece of paper towel for this or a Q-tip. If you use a Q-tip, make sure no fibers are left behind that may inhibit the spool being able to move freely. Once you have cleaned, lubed and put the spool back into the noid you may go ahead and re-assemble the noid (use Pic #3, #13, and #14 as a reference) and install you solenoid back into your Promaster. I recommend verfying that the noid cycles the marker. If it does, congratulations, just lubed your solenoid all by yourself! If it doesn't, well.....there are plenty of noids out there.
Pic #5




PROCEEDING TO STAGE 2 IS COMPLETELY OPTIONAL AND IS NOT NECESSARY FOR REGULAR MAINTENANCE OF A SOLENOID!!!
STAGE 2: We’re going to remove these two screws at the other endplate shown here which will enable you to access the spool end and middle(pilot) section.
Pic #6




Here’s a picture of the core section(on the right) separated from the pilot/spool sections(on the left).
Pic #7




You can separate the pilot housing from the spool housing by removing the screw in the top right corner shown here.
Pic #8




What the noid looks like when all 3 portions are separated. Note, there are two tiny magnet rods in the center piece(pilot). Be cognizant of these pieces, you don’t want to lose them.
Pic #9




Here’s a better picture of one of the tiny rods after it fell out. Just put them back in if they fall out. They are magnetic so you will need a bit of patience for this.
Pic #10




Photo of the center piece(pilot) flipped over.
Pic #11




Removed the spool endplate/gasket (small white plastic piece with the o-ring) and removing some excess Dow 33.
Pic #12




Here's a couple of photos that you can use to make sure it's all put back together okay.
Pic #13

Pic #14

I did not use the toothpick idea to push the piston out. If the piston is stuck and will not slide out, you will have to disassemble the entire noid to push it out from the opposite side.

Also it should be noted that dow55 is not a good grease for use on the solenoid piston! Swelling those orings will not help anything. Use a good dow33 based grease like lurker lube or violent pb jelly.

Actually you can rebuild a solenoid. i do it to mine every 6-8 months of play just to make sure they are always in tip-top shape. MC Master does sell them but I can't for the life of me remember the size. it is tiny though. LOL


As for how to lube them... DO NOT use OIL!!!

instead, you should use some good old Dow33. You'll want to place some lube in the grooves on the Ram (no different than the one in your Markers) and THEN install the O-rings, Lube and then re-insert into the housing (of course you'll want to clean it very well) and proceed to put it all back together. AND DON'T LOSE THE TINY MAGNETIC PINS!!!!!!!!!!

If you do lose them I can show you the work-around I came up with a few years ago.

unscrew the top cap, the bottom section and the section with the red button and switch them. making it where the input side is on the right instead of the left.

It is the Tadao Infamous...

M3 if it only has 4 fire modes: uncapped semi-auto, capped semi-auto, PSP ramping, and NXL full-automatic and 8 programmable settings:
Green - Debounce
Purple - Dwell
White - LoaderDelay
Teal - AMB
Flickering Green - Bolt Delay
Flickering Purple - Eye Mode
Flickering White - Fire Mode
Flickering Teal - Fire Mode Max Rate of Fire


M5 if it has 5 fire modes: uncapped semi-auto, adjustable semi-auto, PSP ramping, PSP burst, and NXL full-automatic and 14 programmable settings:
Green - Debounce
Purple - Dwell
Yellow - Loader delay
Blue - AMB
Red - ARS
White - Fire mode
Teal - Fire mode max rate of fire
Flickering Green - Eye mode
Flickering Purple - Bolt delay
Flickering Yellow - CPF
Flickering Blue - Ramp start
Flickering Red - Eye on color
Flickering White - Eye off color
Flickering Teal - Eye malfunction color


M6 base model (or M6 w/10 bps settings) if it has 5 fire modes: uncapped semi-auto, adjustable semi-auto, PSP ramping, PSP burst, and NXL full-automatic and "Gangster mode" and 12 programmable settings:
Green - Debounce
Purple - Dwell
Yellow - Loader delay
Blue - AMB
Red - ARS
White - Fire mode
Teal - Fire mode max rate of fire
Flickering Green - Eye mode
Flickering Purple - Bolt delay
Flickering Yellow - CPF
Flickering Blue - Ramp start
Flickering Red - Gangster mode

...and if the board has 26 ROF settings it is the original software flash (base model) for 14 to 20 balls per second in ¼ balls per second increments. If the board has 22 ROF settings it is the 2008 PSP software flash for 10 to 25 balls per second in ½ balls per second increments.

Tadao offers updates that are 100% free at events that Tadao Technologies attends. If you mail your boards/chips in for the update, only return shipping is charged. The PSP/Millennium Rate of Fire Upgrade is a software update for the rate of fire setting which increases the range of adjustment for PSP, CFOA and Millennium tournament series play for the 2009 season. Actual range of adjustment is from 10 to 25 bps after the update. The ROF upgrade does not provide any other new features over the latest Musashi software on each particular board. However, users with older software can take advantage of this free upgrade to obtain the newest code updates.

2k5ing.
To 2k5a Timmy basically means to take a generation 2 body and strip all the old parts off exccept the bolt and eye covers then replace them with 2004/2005 parts.

To 2k5 a Timmy you need;
2001*/2002/2003 body
Empire, Alias, Critical, Or Empire frame.
2005 Front block**, Trinity front block, Evil Front block, or Empire front block.
2005 Electronics and Solenoid.
2005 Ram assembly (Ram, Sleeve, poppet)
2005 screw kit

*If using a 2001 body it has to be sent to BLAST to be milled for the 2005 board and solenoid.
** If using the 2005 block the body has to be re tapped.

Common Problems-
Barrel leak- Usually is something to do with the poppet, if you have the gen 2 poppet change the oring if that is no good, change the cupseal. If using a gen 3 or later change the poppet oring.

Leak from the bolt- Change the ram orings

Leak from the front frame screw- the body is punctured

Leak from the inside the grip frame, Take the panel off, make sure all the barbs and hoses are attached and on well, if that doesn't work your noid is probably dead.

Lubing
Bob Long recommends using DOW 55 for lube, but you can get away with 33 on everything except the Ram Sleeve and Poppet, even then you sometimes can get away with 33. But that doesn't mean cheap out and not get DOW 55. The Intimidator usually only needs to be lubed every 10 cases or so but it can go longer, I've gotten 1 to 17 cases and its still going strong.


A note about the Poppet valve, if you bottom out your LPR or HPR it will leak until the LPR gets to around 50 PSI.

2k2 has just a drilled hole in the body. Alias blocks need the body tapped with threads for a screw.

yes they will fit, but you have to tap the body for the set screw that holds the block in.

O.K. ENOUGH with the "Which Lube Should I Use on My Timmy" Questions...


If you can't read this and learn which lube you should use on your Intimidator, you should have a Tech service your marker.

NOTE: This thread is specifically aimed towards helping those who are either new to Intimidators and/or those who aren't really sure what lube to use. Those of you who have vast, in-depth knowledge on the subject matter, PLEASE don't post. You'll only further confuse the situation for those seeking help in this area.

The FACTORY Recommended Lube to use throughout your ENTIRE MARKER is Dow55.
It is specifically designed for use with O-rings and is engineered to cause them to swell to assist in maintaining a better seal. However, it is a thicker, more pasty lube and depending on the climate/weather, it's components may have a tendancy separate, allowing the liquid component to be expelled as the Marker is fired, leaving the dryer more pasty component behind to serve as the lube. If you feel you're pretty maintenance savy & you don't mind tearing down your Marker more frequently, this may be the lube for you.

Some of use more experienced Techs prefer to use something a little less Dry & Tacky so we prefer Dow33 on EVERYTHING EXCEPT for the Ram Sleeve O-rings (Stick to Dow55 when at all possible on these to ensure a good seal) due to it's slicker properties. Additionally I have found that using Dow33 increases time between regular maintenance intervals. Another reason you may end up using Dow33 is due to it being more readily available and Dow55 is nearly 3 times the cost.

There are other alternative lubes you may have heard of but if you use any such lube(s), you will do so at your own risk.


As for the Bolt... DO NOT EVER, EVER, EVER, EEEEVER use Lube/Grease to lubricate it. Bolts require OIL. The Factory recommended OIL is Tri-Flow, a Bicycle oil than can readily be found at any reputable Bike Shop. However, ANY regular Paintball Gun OIL will do. From Gold Cup to the cheap oil supplied with most entry level Markers. Just place one good drop on EACH O-ring and smear/work it all around the O-rings to ensure they are completely coated. Not too much though because excess will only act as a Magnet for dirt & debris, causing excessive & premature wear on both the bolt & breech. Additionally you may wish to rub whatever excess oil is left on your fingers all over the rest of the bolt. Careful though as once again too much will be counter productive. The Bolt should be a tad bit on the glossy side when lubed properly.


PROPER O-RING INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

BEFORE installing ANY O-ring, you must first lube the groove generously & then install the O-ring. What this will do is to help the O-ring acheive a better seal and it also serves as a sort of Reservoir of lube that will help keep the O-rings lubed for a longer period of time, extening the life of the O-ring.


PROPER AMOUNT OF LUBE TO USE

The appropriate amount of lube to use is pretty much the same throughout the ENTIRE Marker. EVERY area that requires lubing should have a decent amount of lube on there.

What's a the proper amount?

The Proper amount would be a thin layer of lube, coating the area/part evenly.

RAM
As for the Ram, this is the part that get's lube improperly more frequently. A great deal of people smear Lube ALL OVER the Ram which is counter-productive. All that will do is make the Ram a Magnet for Dirt & Debris. The Proper way to lube the Ram is to lube ONLY the very front around the O-ring (from the very tip to about .25" behind the O-ring) and the rear humped area. The rest of the Ram never makes contact with anything and therefore does NOT require ANY Lubing.

POPPET
This part really doesn't require MUCH lube at all. What you should do is lube the O-ring groove, slide the New O-ring into place and then dip the tip into some Dow33 just until the O-ring is submerged and then slide it out (it usually comes out fairly clean). Then smear it around the end where the O-ring resides and slide it back into the Ram Sleeve. A good tip on this one is to leave a touch extra lube at the very tip so when you slide it back into the Sleeve it coats the inside of the sleeve as well.

REGULATOR PISTONS
These parts require the most amount of lube on your Intimidator. What you want to do is place a good amount of lube in the O-ring groove BEFORE installing the O-ring and then Generously lube the piston (that doesn't mean to Glob it on there), then you should lube the inner walls f the Regulator housing LIGHTLY (I use my pinky for the Torpedo & a cotton swab for the LPR), and if you want to be extra thorough like me, you can smear a thin coat on the regulator springs themselves before sliding them into the reg bodies.



If you have any more questions, please refer to the Manuals located in the Manual Sticky.




ROB.

Modified Eigenram(lpr 70psi, hpr 190psi and dwell 6. Its smooth as silk)

So just a couple of things.

Some of the early 2K2 (and classic) ram sleeves actually took 015 o-rings on the sleeve and not 112's. The later 2K2 and Alias sleeves used 112's and the Aliases had the U-Cup o-rings on the front. Make sure they open to the front (like a sail) to ensure they trap the air pressure. If you don't have u-cup o-rings you can substitute a 112. Most of my Gen3 markers have two 112's.

That bieng said, the leak down the front can be from several things.

1. Check your poppet and cup seal. These types of leaks usually don't have that pronounced of a leak (i.e. it doesn't sound like it's gushing air, just a shallow leak). The solution is a new cupseal and 004 poppet o-ring and some Dow 55 on that o-ring. You can use a 2K2 sleeve in an alias body as long as you use a 2K2 poppet/cupseal or an Empire poppet with the integrated cupseal. Alias sleeves require an alias poppet with an integrated cupseal that's narrower. Additionally, poppet/cupseal leaks can frequently lead to FSDO. If you've been experiencing FSDO and hear a leak...this is your likely culprit.

2. Ram Sleeve o-rings. These o-rings usually don't go bad and you generally only get a leak from here if you recently reinserted the sleeve and clipped one. It's generally a very shallow leak.

3. Body Puncture - More pronounced than the poppet leak it can sound like a hiss or a gushing noise depending on how bad the breach is. You can easily detect his because there's a raised section in the body where the ram sleeve normally goes.

4. Ram O-rings - The other thing that can sound like a leak down the barrel is when your ram's o-rings specifically the 006 front o-ring, go bad. If you play with the bolt and the sound changes as it moves, this might be a good sign your ram o-rings need replaced. A quick swap of the 006 and 011 and some Dow 55 will usually do the trick. One thing to watch out for. As the rams age, it's possible for them to bend. I've seen two in the last few months where the top part (that comes into contact with the poppet) has bent slightly allowing air to flow over the o-ring causing a leaking sound.

Also, make sure your barbs and hoses are snug.

Hello Timmy Specialists,

Got a question about compatibility of parts in old LPRs and torpedo regs with the newer 360 reg parts. Specifically, I wanted to know if the older reg valve pin, pin spring, pin base, and pin valve seal can be replaced with the newer type of pin valve assembly in the 360 reg. I'm finding it hard to find replacement pin valve seals and was thinking I should just replace the whole assembly with something that I can find spare parts for if possible. I haven't had the need to replace a pin or spring yet (knock on wood) but I can see those being parts that will be hard to find as well.

I've tried BLAST and they no longer have any of the seals in stock. I have also already tried -006 Teflon o-rings and I can confirm 1st hand that they do not work. Anybody have any ideas for a suitable replacement for either the whole pin valve assembly or just the seal itself? It would be nice to have something in the ol' parts kit ready to go if something should fail and I'd rather not have to spend the money to get new HPR and LPRs (if a new LPR would even work with a Gen 2 Timmy).

Thanks.

This will get you sorted out:
http://palmer-pursuit.com/cart/rock-...age=2&sort=20a

last 3 items totaling $10+shipping

Palmers LPR's use the same valve pin, spring and seal (as do a few other regs of the period). Alternatively, the 360 schrader valve fits, no comment on whether it works though:
http://www.intimidatorowners.com/for...ead.php?t=7354

Try to set it to uncaped ramping or full auto uncaped
dwell at 4-5 (depends on Bolt delay)
bolt delay at 13.
and use a fast feeder like dye rotor. or maby a spire if you are using reball.
the gun should shoot fast as hell with those settings.

HPR - 150psi
LPR - 70psi
Poppet Type - LP(about 5 cases with it)
BOLT Type - Premium( about 2 bags with it)
Dwell - 6ms
FPS - 285 +/- 4

HPR - 195
LPR - 75
Poppit Type - HP
BOLT Type - Vice pillow bolt
Dwell - 6ms
FPS - 290-295

HPR - 155
LPR - 60
Poppit Type - LP poppit
BOLT Type - Beta Premium Bolt
Dwell - 8 MS
FPS - 300 FPS