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I'll share what little info I have gathered since I won't be doing this anymore.

The Ion noid will work with the Ego board, however there will be excess heat (unknown conciquece) and wasted battery power.

Noids that will work would be 3 way with fixed open (rare apparently) and 4 way with an output plugged off (I believe this means timmy noids and the ego noid itself would work, but I'm not sure)

The asa is pretty much a mystery, I had some designs in my head, nothing really final.

YDNA and Chiumanfu supplied me with this info, I deleted most or all of the Pm's on the subject, so if I think of anything else they told me I'll let ya know.

And now that I'm not doing this project I have a stock 05 ego/trigger board if anyones wants it.

Understanding Ion Timing

What is Dwell?

With the Ion (and Smart Parts' other single solenoid markers for that matter) there are two key timing values that determine among other things, how fast the marker can fire.

The first of these settings is Dwell. The dwell value determines how long the marker will send power to it's solenoid valve, which in turn re-directs air flow so that the bolt will close and release the exhaust gas to propel the paintball. The reason dwell is adjustable, is that each paintgun is a little bit different – or a lot different if aftermarket parts come into play, such as bolts and QEVs that affect how fast the bolt moves.

The Dwell value is important. If it is too low, the bolt may not close properly, or may not stay closed long enough to consistently deliver the same amount of gas with every shot, leading to wide velocity fluctuations. If it is set too high, the bolt will be closed longer than necessary, which can release more gas than is needed to fire the ball, reducing efficiency, and reducing how fast the marker can fire (the longer the bolt is closed, the less time it is open to allow a new paintball to feed.)

By default the Ion, SP-8 and Epiphany's dwell times are set conservatively long to allow for reliable operation under a wide range of conditions, including various degrees of lubrication on the bolt. In most cases gas efficiency can be improved by optimizing the dwell setting.

What is the ROF Delay?

Originally Smart Parts simply called this second setting “ROF,” because ultimately it effects that rate of fire which a marker can achieve. That term can be deceptive however, because although it does impact the maximum rate of fire, the setting in itself is a delay, and treating it as a rate of fire cap, can make programming more confusing. This distinction is very important as setting the ROFD on one marker to the same ROFD as another marker does not mean they will have the same maximum rate of fire. For the purposes of discussion here, we will call it the Rate Of Fire Delay, or ROFD, because that better describes its nature.

The ROFD is another timing value. It determines how long the marker must wait after releasing the solenoid valve before firing the next shot. It is in essence a pause.

There are three primary purposes for which the ROFD can be used:

Limit rate of fire: Some leagues, fields and events place a limit on how fast markers can fire (15 bps in PSP, NXL, CFOA and Millennium.)

Allow time for a ball to feed: With Vision enabled, this is not really an issue – but if using the marker without Vision (eyes damaged or dirty) setting the ROFD high enough can make sure the bolt stays open longer between shots to increase the likely-hood that a paintball will have tome to be fed.

Preventing shoot-down: If, in its particular configuration a marker is experiencing shootdown (velocity drops while shooting fast, but returns to normal in single shots or slow strings) increasing the ROFD can be used to make sure the fire chamber has enough time between shots to be fully recharged.

Ultimately, how fast the circuit board will fire the marker depends on the length of time for the Dwell plus the length of time for the ROFD. These two times added together equal the length of time needed for one shooting cycle. This is why two markers with the same ROFD can shoot at different speeds – if their dwell values are different, the total time for each cycle will be different.

Because both the Dwell and ROFDelay numbers set a time value, increasing either one will slow the marker down, while decreasing either one will allow it to shoot faster. Since the dwell will need to be set for proper operation of the marker, we look to the ROFDelay setting to limit the maximum possible rate of fire. Most players will want to use their marker in Vision mode, and will want the option of shooting as fast as they can, even if it might result in shoot-down. In these cases ROFDelay should be set as low as possible to allow the fastest shooting possible.

If a particular maximum rate of fire limit is desired, for example to stay under the 15 bps restriction at a tournament, first the dwell must be adjusted, then an appropriate ROF Delay value must be calculated and set. To make that task easier, we have built the handy timing calculator on this page.

Firing Mode:

paintballThe third adjustment is the firing mode and determines if the marker will fire in semi-auto, 3-round burst, full-auto or rebound.) When it is set to 0, the marker is in semi-auto. Set to 1, the marker is in rebound mode (fires as semi-auto until a minimum rate of fire after a minimum number of shots, at which point it fires more than one shot per trigger pull.) At 2, it is in three shot burst, and at 3, it is in full-automatic. In both burst and full-auto modes the marker will not fire at greater than 10 balls per second.

Making Adjustments

With the marker degassed, unloaded of paintballs, and turned on programming the board is rather easy.

paintballThere are two controls involved – the power button, and the programming button (a grey button on the circuit board, visible with the left side grip panel removed.) Feedback is provided to the user through a pair of LEDs – one yellow and one red, on the circuit board.

Pressing the programming button cycles through each one of six programming modes. The programming mode selected determines what will be adjusted. The pattern of the blinking LEDs indicated the setting to be adjusted:

Solidly Lit LED – Dwell

Blinking LED – ROF Delay

Double Blinking LED – Firing Mode

The color of the LED that is lit or blinking determines how the selected setting will be adjusted:

Yellow – Increase setting value

Red – Decrease setting value

Raising the dwell (solid yellow) will hold the solenoid valve open longer – this can be done to solve bolt-stick problems, or while optimizing the dwell.

Lowering the dwell (blinking yellow) will shorten how long the solenoid valve is held open – this can improve gas efficiency while optimizing the dwell.

Raising the ROF Delay (blinking yellow) will slow down how fast the marker can shoot.*

Lowering the ROF Delay (blinking red) will speed up how fast the marker can shoot.

Raising or lowering the Firing mode, will of course change the firing mode.

To better understand the blinking patterns and what they look like, select a programming mode from the programming modes section of the Ion Timing Calculator, this will display the mode's blink pattern on the circuit board LEDs.

Programming Examples

Selecting the firing mode:

With the marker degassed, and unloaded of paint, the grip is opened, and the programming mode is pressed repeatedly until the programming LEDs indicated that Fire Mode down is selected (red double-blink.) The power button is then pressed as many times as needed (anywhere from one to four, depending on what mode the marker was in) to cause the LED to blink red only in response to its being pressed. This will indicate that the bottom of the adjustment range (semi-auto) has been reached.

To set any other mode, the programming button must be pressed until the fire mode up programming mode is selected (double-blink yellow) and then the power switch is pressed enough times to reach the desired firing mode. A single press will move from mode 0 to 1, or rebound. Pressing again will move up to mode 2, 3-shot burst, while another press will move up to mode 3, full-automatic. Pressing the trigger will lock in the selected mode and exit programming.

Optimizing the Dwell time:

Optimizing the dwell requires the marker to be unloaded of paint, with a barrel blocker securely in place and paintball goggles on. This procedure must be done in a safe area – many paintball fields do not allow dry-firing (shooting gas without paint) in their staging area, so this task is often undertaken at a chronograph station. The marker must be on, with Vision mode disabled (pressing the power button once while on and not in a programming mode.)

The grip must be opened and the programming button pressed to select the Dwell Down programming mode (solid red.) The power button is then pressed repeatedly until the bottom of the dwell adjustment range is reached (signified by a red blink, instead of a red and yellow blink after the power button is pressed.) The dwell setting is now 0 clicks, or 8 milliseconds.

The programming button is pressed and cycled to the Dwell Up programming mode (solid yellow.) Here each press of the power button raises the dwell setting one click, which increases the length of the dwell time by 0.5 milliseconds.

The dwell must be raised to the point that it is just high enough for the bolt to fully close, and make a firing sound. It may take some upward and downward adjustments to find this exact point. The dwell setting is tested by simply pulling the trigger which exits the programming mode and attempts to fire the marker (this is why Vision mode must be off, so the marker can dry-fire without paint.)

Once the minimum dwell needed to close the bolt has been found, the dwell needs to be adjusted upward another 15 to 20 clicks. According to Smart Parts, this adjustment point 15 to 20 clicks higher than the minimum time needed to close the bolt, is the optimal dwell range for the Ion, SP-8 and Epiphany.

If the marker begins exhibiting signs of First Shot Drop Off (FSDO) where the first shot after sitting for some time is slow, but the follow-up shots are at full velocity, it may be necessary to clean and lubricate the marker. If it is clean and lubricated and the problem persists, it may be necessary to increase the dwell setting a couple of clicks at a time until the problem goes away (note: the Blackheart board has an anti-FSDO setting which can automatically increase the dwell of only the first shot in a string after the marker has been sitting.)

When changes are made to the marker, such as adding a QEV, or changing to a bolt of a different design, the dwell setting should be re-optimized.

Setting the ROFD for 15 bps limit tournament play.

To use the ROFDelay to cap the marker's maximum rate of fire, we first need to know the marker's current dwell setting. The best way to do this is to start out by optimizing the dwell with the above procedure, and keeping track of the dwell setting by counting button presses.

If you've lost track of the number of button clicks used to set the dwell, but have found the perfect setting, its value can still be counted out. Simply select the Dwell Down (solid red) programming mode, and press the power button repeatedly, counting the number of clicks needed to reach the bottom of the adjustment range. Then select the Dwell Up (Solid Yellow) programming mode and press the power button that same number of times to return the dwell value to its previous setting.

Let us say for the sake of the example that our dwell optimized Ion has a dwell setting of 41 clicks, or 28.5ms. We can set the dwell value of the Ion calculator to 41 clicks. With the default ROFDelay setting of 50 clicks, this yields a maximum speed of 12.73 shots per second. By lowering the ROFDelay in the calculator until our maximum speed is 14.81 shots per second, we find that a ROFDelay value of 28 clicks (39 ms) will cap us just below that 15 bps limit.

So, we now need to set the ROF delay. This adjustment is done just like the dwell – with no gas or paint. The programming button is used to select the ROFDelay Down (blink red) mode and the power button pressed until we reach the bottom of that adjustment range. The programming button is then pressed as many times as needed to cycle us over to the ROFDelay Up (blink yellow) mode. Then the power button is pressed 28 times, to set our ROFDelay at 28 clicks (39ms.)

Any changes to the dwell setting will then require a new ROFDelay to be calculated and set, in order to keep the 15 bps limit in place.

* Editor's Note: Some manuals and guides state that blinking red raises the ROF while blinking yellow lowers it - the opposite of what is written here. They state this because lowering the ROF Delay (blinking red) speeds up how fast the marker can fire (i.e. Like raising a rate of fire cap.) While this terminology make make it easier to explain to someone that a blinking red adjustment can be used to allow the marker to shoot faster, it makes the blink patterns of the programming modes more difficult to memorize and leads to the false impression that ROF adjustment sets a rate of fire cap independent of dwell timing values. While it requires a little more explanation, we have chosen a more technically correct and complete explanation of how the programming modes work, as we believe that in the long run it is easier to understand and avoid programming mistakes that can cost a game forfeit (something we have seen happen.) Timing values for the calculator are based on data supplied by Smart Parts.

- See more at: http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technic ... nWa2F.dpuf

I thought i should share some insight on how ive oversome some of the many problems with my friends and my sp-1 and vibe over the years. Ive personally teched 5 different guns in a variety of problems, some requiring creative solutions:

Problem:
1. Leaking air.
2. Gun not firing
3. Parts missing
4. Mods - Trigger sticking? look here

1. Leaking Air/puffing noises

If the vibe is leaking somewhere in the gun locate the source of the leak by ear. First make sure the bolt, ASA, and reg are screwed in correctly. Then if the leak persists, easier detection can be had by taking off the grip frame.

If the leak is coming from the reg:
-your pressure may be set too low, and you may need to increase the velocity (Do NOT do this if you know your gun was set at a high enough pressure before the leak, you may blow a soloniod) Start with the reg at the lowest setting and increase slowly.
-the oring from the asa is damaged, replace it
-CO2 is being vented from your gun in the topmost reg vent. Use hpa or a remote line to prevent liquid co2 from entering
-The internals of the reg need servicing or replacement (ive had a loud trumpet noise come out of mine before and the reg seat needed to be replaced as it was sheared). This can be easily fixed. If the air is coming from the topmost of the 3 vents on the side of the reg nearest to the marker body, replace the 006 size o-ring in the overpressure vent valve. If its coming from the middle hole, it can be the piston o-ring, the lower 006 size piston o-rng or the reg seat. 10 cent fxes. If its not coming from the vents, and from the swivel, replace the swivel o-rings.

If the leak is coming from the bolt (out the breach)
-degass and reset the bolt to the rear position. sometimes initial pressurization does not set the bolt back and air leaks
-make sure the board is set to the right dwell setting (co2 vs hpa)
-If you have another bolt replace it to see if the bolt is the actual problem. If it is, you may need to replace some orings. check for damage, lube, and/or replace. The active orings that move and are subject to more wear are the inside of the bolt stop the two in the front and the small one in the rear.
-Before you replace o-rings make SURE thee reg pressure and tank pressure is reading right. 800+psi for tank, 120-180psi for reg. Get a pressure tester if possible. Also see where the air is leaking from on the bolt. Is it leaking from the bolt faace or around the bolt? Use your finger to plug the bolt face and feel. If its coming from inside, the bolt sail o-ring or the inner bolt stop o-rng is to blame. If its coming from the outside, the rear breech o-ring is to blame.
-if the bolt is stuck forward and leaking it may be the bolt sail o-ring, the rear internal breech o-ring or ay be a problem with the banjos/forward line. Check the line first leading from the noid to the front banjo.

If the leak is soming from around the board:
-Tighten up the banjo bolts! This is the prime cause of a leak! Banjo bolts get loose after a while.
-If air still comes out of the banjo bolts, it may be an oring is damaged inside the one thats leaking. Replace.
-If air is coming out of the hoses, replace the hose.

Leak from the asa: replace tank oring

Soleniod

For info on parts name and function see solenoid pic below. More solenoids are damaged by the user trying to repair it than mechanical faliure. DO NOT overtighten solenoid screws. Rely on the clips and tighten screws till snug, NOT tight.

*If the air comes out of the solonoid exaust port WHEN FIRING, AND the gun fails to fire correctly, do the following (air should be coming out of the exaust port durring firing, but it may not fire, or it may leak excessively with a low velocity, or puff out the barrel)
-replace the battery with a fresh ALKALINE 9v. Do NOT use carbon zinc 9v batteries (cheaper $$). They do not have enough current to run the solonoid.
- make sure the dwell setting is set to the correct air type (co2 vs hpa)
-Make sure your reg is not too low - DO NOT INCREASE pressure if you know it was set at the right level before the leak!!!! You may do more damage. If you have an inline pressure tester that would be ideal. Keep under 200psi, and above 100psi.
-Check the nub on the armature for dirt and damage. As well as the tiny o-ring on the inside of the soloniod.
- If using a deadlywinds hollowpoint bolt, it may be the bolt sail o-ring. Clean and lube, if it still doesnt work, replace the o-ring: Info by UV Halo
- the solenoid may need replacing

*If the air is coming from around the base of the solenoid, replace the o-ring there with a fresh 015/90.

*If the soleniod is leaking CONSTANTLY from the exaust port do the following:
-check the armature for damage. Flip over the armature, clean it if its dirty with a qtip (make sure no fibers are left), also clean the inside of the cap near the exaust port, center the coin in the top of the soloniod, then put the cap on it, again making sure the coin doesnt get off centered/unseated. Make sure no space is in between the cap and the bottom of the soloniod when screwing it back in. Air her up, and your good to go.

If it still leaks after that, you can try flipping the coin once more and making sure its centered. you will have to get a new coin for the noid (or new rubber things). If thats the case, i would try modding the current coin you have before you get a new one. Try putting some teflon tape on the nub that faces the top, or put a thin layer of hot glue or something as rubbery. Again, this is a last ditch effort in case you NEED to rreplace the coin/noid.

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2. Gun is not firing

If the gun is not firing:
-Make sure you have a FRESH ALKALINE 9v. NO CARBON ZINC!!!!! ALKALINE ONLY!!!!
-Make sure the 9v wire is not pinched or damaged
-make sure no paint water, dirt or oil is on the board
-Make sure its turned ON
-make sure your dwell setting is on the right air source (hpa vs CO2)
-make sure your gun is lubed and clean
-check for leaks
-with no air in the gun, on full auto, check if the solonoid is operating (not the beeps, see if the solonoid "clicks")
- if it doesnt, unscrew the solonoid, undo the clips, and see the pins on the bottom. there may be an intermittent connection. , remove the two screws and clips. on the bottom you will see two pins and brass holes where they go in. Strip a wire, get a thin - less then hair thickness sliver of metal wire, NOT INSULATION. Put a peice of rasor thin wire (a fragment) in each hole to make sure there is a connection between the pins and the holes.

-solonoid or board may need to be replaced if above has been solved and the board does not turn on or function.

For blackheart users!
-If your eyes are malfunctioning, it will most likely be the recieving diode thats taken the shitter, OR the harness wire has been pinched and severly damaged. First make sure eyes are on on the board setting. If they dont work its the diode (detector, NOT EMITTER, unless you dont see light)
-for the diode, you can easily get one off a halo, or from an electronics store. They are standerd detector diodes. $1-2. Just solder in place. Alternitavely you can get a new harness altogether. Used on this site - $5-10. Can use ion ones!
- for the wire harness ion ones will work, not sure if others will work, but you may be able to repair the harness you have...

3. Parts List
Here is a list of all the o-rings you will need:
006 - banjo bolt (base of bolt contacting breech), Regulator: Relief valve oring (top)
008 - Regulator: Spring platform o-ring
010 - bolt tail o-ring (moving 010/70), Regulator: Relief valve (bottom)
014 - inside of the bolt stop (moving 014/70) Regulator: Spring platform o-ring (outer), Reg swivel (2x), Reg piston (moving -014/70)
015 - bolt bumper o-ring(static)/ regulator/tank
016 - bolt sail o-ring (moving - 016/70)
017 - Breach o-rings, maybe outside bolt stop and 2 back cap
018 - maybe outside bolt stop and 2 back cap o-rings
022 - rear of the back cap.
1x3mm - banjo bolts (head of the bolt)
1x4mm - reg? Possibly the O-ring on the adjuster on the reg, but theres no way of getting to it. Dont know where else this size goes.

I suggest you get a set of all of these o-rings. You may need more than one. For parts which are moving you will need a durometer of 70. All others are static o-rings and will need 90.
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4. Mods

Trigger sticking:
Not really a mod, but just loosen the top handgrip screw a 1/4 turn and it should stop sticking. Either that, or clean your trigger from all the gunk over the years.

Hand tightened feedneck mod: Get a 10-32 screw(bolt) 1.2-1.5" long, a wingnut, a spacer, and the appropriate nut and put in that order onto the feedneck. Now it can be hand tightened without tools.

Iv had a few Ion's over time, and I have always put the shocktech bodies on them. Out of the 5 or so Ion's Iv had and modded with Shocktech bodies only one particular process I came up with prevented the shocktech bodies from leaking/not sealing on me. Give it a try.


Part one:
With the BOB back removed, look down and make sure that the threads of the 90 banjo shock-tech provided is not protruding into the body. If it is, resolve this first as it will nick the o-ring on the BOB back. If this is an issue (I had it with 3 out of five bodies)I have removed the shocktech banjo and carefully put, if I remember correctly, a 10-32 nut on the banjo end and thread it on. If the nut is the correct threading it will spin on freely, if it is not it will strip the threads and you will be out a shocktech body banjo. And good luck getting a replacement. Iv tried.
If this is the case and you thread the nut on, then get a fine metal fill and file the top threads down the amount it is protruding in, maybe a tinny more without taking to much so that when the banjo is threaded on it doesn't protrude into the body. The reason for threading the nut on first is so after filing, as you remove the nut, it corrects the jammed up/filed thread ends. Then take computer compressed air can and blow the banjo out as to not force fine metal filings through your marker. Clean filings and lube banjo o-rings.

Part two:
Start fresh with two new o-ring's of factory specs/size on the firing chamber, lube them lightly before putting on. The reason for this is the BOB puts minor nicks in these and can add to chasing the leak. Replace the o-ring on the bottom of the BOB back as well. With the shocktech banjo issue removed from the situation the two firing chamber o-rings and the o-ring on the bottom of the BOB now become the concern. No matter what I have tried, simply removing the rear frame screw and removing the BOB back has always scored the back 3 o-rings I previously listed during removal or install. The only way I have over come this is, after replacing the above mention o-rings, prior to putting back on the BOB, I would remove the rear frame screw holding the BOB on. Then I would -loosen- NOT remove the second (forward) Frame screw, and loosen the breach screw under the barrel so that the body would have play and movement from the trigger frame. I then would lube the bottom of the BOB o-ring, and lube ever so lightly the inside of the BOB back, slide on the back pushing evenly in the middle. Install rear frame screw first. Snug not Tight. Then I would Snug the other two screws (Front frame and Front breach screws). After all were snugged in that process I would go back and tighten everything and have no issues. After solving the problem and making a habit of how I loosened the bolts, it only took seconds to get the back off, and service it without nicking any o-rings. In reverse is would be, degassed (verify reg was degassed). remove barrel, Loosen breach front bolt, loosen front trigger frame screw, remove rear screw, remove BOB. The screws when I loosened them would be 1.5 full turns from tight.

Thoughts: I have noticed on all the bodies I have had, that when the breach and second frame screws are snug/tight, that what ever machining tolerances are in play, it would always cut the three back o-rings when installing the BOB. Only what I described above has worked from me. And If I failed to loosen the 2 front screws, and remove the BOB, I would always have to replace the o-rings to stop a leak. Its a Pain for something that is suppose to simplify the situation. But these are my thoughts. Let us know how you make out. I shortened this up. So hopefully its enough detail to follow.

I don't actually know the o-ring sizes, but in the captain o-ring kit x3 I have I use the 015 on the firing breach, and the 010 on the bottom of the BOB back.

Iv had a few Ion's over time, and I have always put the shocktech bodies on them. Out of the 5 or so Ion's Iv had and modded with Shocktech bodies only one particular process I came up with prevented the shocktech bodies from leaking/not sealing on me. Give it a try.


Part one:
With the BOB back removed, look down and make sure that the threads of the 90 banjo shock-tech provided is not protruding into the body. If it is, resolve this first as it will nick the o-ring on the BOB back. If this is an issue (I had it with 3 out of five bodies)I have removed the shocktech banjo and carefully put, if I remember correctly, a 10-32 nut on the banjo end and thread it on. If the nut is the correct threading it will spin on freely, if it is not it will strip the threads and you will be out a shocktech body banjo. And good luck getting a replacement. Iv tried.
If this is the case and you thread the nut on, then get a fine metal fill and file the top threads down the amount it is protruding in, maybe a tinny more without taking to much so that when the banjo is threaded on it doesn't protrude into the body. The reason for threading the nut on first is so after filing, as you remove the nut, it corrects the jammed up/filed thread ends. Then take computer compressed air can and blow the banjo out as to not force fine metal filings through your marker. Clean filings and lube banjo o-rings.

Part two:
Start fresh with two new o-ring's of factory specs/size on the firing chamber, lube them lightly before putting on. The reason for this is the BOB puts minor nicks in these and can add to chasing the leak. Replace the o-ring on the bottom of the BOB back as well. With the shocktech banjo issue removed from the situation the two firing chamber o-rings and the o-ring on the bottom of the BOB now become the concern. No matter what I have tried, simply removing the rear frame screw and removing the BOB back has always scored the back 3 o-rings I previously listed during removal or install. The only way I have over come this is, after replacing the above mention o-rings, prior to putting back on the BOB, I would remove the rear frame screw holding the BOB on. Then I would -loosen- NOT remove the second (forward) Frame screw, and loosen the breach screw under the barrel so that the body would have play and movement from the trigger frame. I then would lube the bottom of the BOB o-ring, and lube ever so lightly the inside of the BOB back, slide on the back pushing evenly in the middle. Install rear frame screw first. Snug not Tight. Then I would Snug the other two screws (Front frame and Front breach screws). After all were snugged in that process I would go back and tighten everything and have no issues. After solving the problem and making a habit of how I loosened the bolts, it only took seconds to get the back off, and service it without nicking any o-rings. In reverse is would be, degassed (verify reg was degassed). remove barrel, Loosen breach front bolt, loosen front trigger frame screw, remove rear screw, remove BOB. The screws when I loosened them would be 1.5 full turns from tight.

Thoughts: I have noticed on all the bodies I have had, that when the breach and second frame screws are snug/tight, that what ever machining tolerances are in play, it would always cut the three back o-rings when installing the BOB. Only what I described above has worked from me. And If I failed to loosen the 2 front screws, and remove the BOB, I would always have to replace the o-rings to stop a leak. Its a Pain for something that is suppose to simplify the situation. But these are my thoughts. Let us know how you make out. I shortened this up. So hopefully its enough detail to follow.

I don't actually know the o-ring sizes, but in the captain o-ring kit x3 I have I use the 015 on the firing breach, and the 010 on the bottom of the BOB back.