KalNet Message Board

Zero B boards are E2s that have an E1 size screen. E1s have a slightly narrower screen, and the Zero b was the E2 "conversion". You switched the red screen out and put a clear one in. A Tadao board is a 3rd party aftermarket board, with about a million settings. They are very expensive and very good. They will fit either the E1 or the E2 frames, but on an E1 the screen will be slightly cut off. This is also true of putting an E2 board in an E1 frame, they fit just fine, and mount right up, buy are just slightly cut off. One of our wonderful members on here, DCL-inc, does E1 and E2 and SF framke conversions to use an Ego 7 screen and button pad. They are4 awesome, and a great way to get a full size screen in an E1, and still retain the original anno'd frame.

6-32 is what's on most of my older cockers. The Trilogy has 10-32 barbs.

Shocktech/Belsales style 3-way barbs are 3-56
If anybody needs replacements I sell them. I also sell Stainless steel 10-32 ram/LPR barbs. Also the old school top hat hose covers

most common barb thread is 10/32, i really depend on where the barb came from.

those skinny noid screw are some strange metric thread

hey yall - a few years ago I started collecting serial numbers for autocockers and matching what the owner said and cross referenced this against the features that were added over the years. I hosted this info on scroadkill.com and teamsection8.com .. and now it is here.

If a mod would please consider sticking this for future reference... - thanks.
-----------------------------------------------

Model -- Serial Numbers --- Year Made

Sniper I --- 1 - 500 --- 1987 --- Bud was making Sniper 1 - machined bodies - in his garage

Sniper I --- 500 - 2107 --- 1988 - 1989 (<Summer) --- Paintslinger16 : "WGP made the switch from a machined to an extruded receiver. Snipers with serial numbers over 2000 have the extruded bodies, as do all the new Sniper II's."
(774 Thumper says)

Sniper 1 1/2 --- 2108 - 2524 --- Early 1989 --- If it's over #2100 then they will have the sniper II body. They used up the Sniper 1 stock (so the #2100 - 2500 is more or less a sniper 1 1/2, after that they were true sniper II's. Joelrf600r: "a 1.5 is the nickname for the transition guns that didn't have all the sniper2 features, but had the extruded sniper2 body. They essentially have the extruded body, but still have the sniper1 style bolt/block combo. some of them have the sniper1 pump, others have the sniper2 pump. i don't know what the number range is for them." 2524 looks like a 1.5

Sniper II --- 2525 - 2891 --- 1989(>Summer) --- In the article if refers to the switch in the summer of '89.
"WGP made the switch from a machined to an extruded receiver. Snipers with serial numbers over 2000 have the extruded bodies, as do all the new Sniper II's." Also states that breech chamber size was reduced after serial #400 to prevent double feeds. The pictures in the article show serial number 2555. APG press release Nov 1989 -- pg58/59 -- pg61 -- pg62 -- pg64 --- I know 2530 is a sniper II -- PAINTCHECK Mar 1990 press release -- pg23 I know 2841 is a sniper II (Firepro84's)


Sniper II --- 3757 ----3810 --- 1990 --- check out Firepro84's 3757 sniper II - 1990 is best guess. --- PAINTCHECK Mar 1990 press release ---- pg22 -- pg23 --- 3810 belongs to noclue119 ---

Sniper II --- 6138 --- 1991 --- (JAGCPT says '91) --- APG August 1991 ad --- Dec 1991 Paintcheck -- pg25/26 -- pg29

--- 6116 to 8942 --- 1992 --- 6116 WALKING TARGET says --- 6314 WALKING TARGET says --- 6427 PAINTHAPPY says
6498 DRAKEN says --- 8283 SDAWG says --- 8346 Firepro's --- 8942 PAINTHAPPY says

--- 9,226 --- 1993 --- 9226 Firepro's - best guess '93

---16,552 --- 94 --- (16552 THUMPER says)

--- 17,000's - 28,000's --- 1995 --- 17000 low : Wolf13 says --- I think & hear 17206 is a late 94, early 95 (air-powered debate) --- (20834 THUMPER says 95)

--- 29,745 --- 1996 --- 29745 (jasons) - Thumper says 96 - backblock

--- 35,668 - 39,485 --- 1997 --- 35,668 is a 97 - full square body, slanted back block --- 39485 is a 97 - I know -- full square body.

---40,033 to 60,141 --- 1998 --- 40033 is a 98 --- 40177 is a 98 --- 44235 is a 98 --- 60141 is a 98 -- timing rod not threaded

--- 60,764 to 72,450 --- 1999 --- 60764 is a 99 -- slanted gills, threaded rod --- 72450 is a 99 - definitely not 2K (from Vortex body)

---73,607 - 88,888 --- 2K0 --- I know 73,607 is a 2K0 -- and Kmac says so too.. --I know 74,139 is a 2K0 -- I know 88,888 is a 2K0

--- 95,672 - 107,438 --- 2K1 --- I know 95,672 is a 2K1 (one cozie sold) --- I know 97,598 is a 2K1
Cockertech.com says 98,477 is a 2K1 --- 99,279 is a 2K1 (tallen702) --- I think 107,438 is a 2K1

---109,637 -143,450 --- 2K2 --- 109637 is a 2k2 (vert feed) --- I hear 123,106, is a 2k2 (draken @ warpig)
I think 126,775 (Rich's RF) } --- I think 131,000 (stockclasspaintball - VF) I think 140,149 - ebay seller I hear 143,450 is a 2k2 (Mirad @ mcb)

---146,405 - 188,475 --- 2k3 --- 146,405 - Sirr Killed A Lott @ Warpig --- 188,475 - half a55 guess (draken @ warpig)

What is it?

The MQ Valve is a solenoid operated pilot actuated poppet valve. It replaces the main valve in an Autococker or knockoff.



Why Buy it?

The valve has two main selling points. It reduces reciprocating mass by removing the hammer that would normally need to be recocked by the backblock. The reduction in reciprocating mass results in a faster gun with less recoil. The valve also reduces lock time to around 4 ms. You can feel a big difference in lock time between an mQ-Valved cocker and a spool gun such as a Shocker. It almost feels like it shoots before you pull the trigger.

You can expect around 1600-1700 shots per 68/45 tank. Operating pressure is 200-300 psi.



Where to Buy

Buy them direct from us at http://www.mqvalve.com. Also available at http://www.moodypaintball.com and http://www.compulsivepaintball.com.



Videos!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbct8FycXhs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_bqOe7lDfY


What Type of Valve Do I Have and Where Can I Find Troubleshooting and Technical Information?

I now have two separate pages for the mQ and MQ2 valves. These pages are largely duplicates, with certain wording and details changed to reflect the different valves.

PBX mQ-Valve - Identified by either blue or silver aluminum parts, with an exposed silver colored solenoid in the pilot, and an o-ring on the front of the poppet.

MTX Designs MQ2-Valve - Identified by red aluminum parts, a totally enclosed pilot assembly, and a urethane disk on the front of the poppet.



Buying a Used Valve

I would not recommend buying a used PBX mQ-Valve, especially the silver colored ones, unless the price is very low. These valves were very easy to damage and often were defective from the factory. You should be willing to pay a slightly higher price for the American blue/brass valves, as they are higher quality than the silver Taiwanese units. The solenoid should be inspected carefully to be sure the back cap is not pushed in and the wires are intact. I can't really suggest anything to find leaks other than pressurizing the valve and firing it. Also be aware that spare parts are generally not available for PBX mQ-Valves.

A used MQ2 would be a much better bet as many of the failure points on the older valves have been fixed. The only thing to inspect other than pressurizing the valve and listening for leaks is the wires. Make sure they are intact, because the wires are easily damaged while installing and removing the valve. Although MQ2 valves are generally pretty solid, some of the poppet seals have failed. Again, a leak test is critical.

As a comment on life in general, I've noticed that there are a lot of complete retards in this world that are incredibly talented at screwing up everything they touch. Precision machined components usually don't stand up well to vise-grips and dremels. Buyer beware.



A Brief History of the MQ and its Current Status

The PBX mQ-Valve was originally produced by a company called PBX Ballistix Lab LLC, owned by Mel Maravilla, Mike Quinn and myself. The patent was sold to National Paintball Supply. The first production run, consisting of approximately 130 valves with brass valve bodies and blue aluminum components was made in the USA with the exception of the poppets and assembled under my supervision. After this run, Mike and I split off from PBX due to disputes over Mel's operation of the business. Later production consisted of two runs of 500 Taiwanese made valves, which were of considerably lower quality. These valves were entirely made of clear anodized aluminum and tend to have issues with sticking poppets and leaks. PBX went out of business and Mel went into hiding after the second run of 500. Quite a few people who sent their guns in for repair never recovered their property.

A year or so later, Mike and I formed MTX Designs LLC, and I purchased a CNC turning center to restart production of the MQ. Our new valve, the MQ2-Valve, is a partially redesigned version of the old valve. We made changes to increase reliability and manufacturability. These new valves are 100% American made and should be much higher quality than previous runs. Here's the old progress page for the first production run. For the curious types, MTX doesn't actually stand for anything. I came up with those letters randomly by mashing my hand on the keyboard.

Spare parts and support are available for the MQ2 valves through mqvalve.com. We are not providing spare parts or warranty service for the PBX valves, although many of the MQ2 components and assemblies are compatible.



Design Changes and Parts Compatibility Between the mQ and MQ2

There were two major design changes made to the MQ2 valve. The pilot was changed to a fully enclosed unit with pilots matched to groups of solenoids and the poppet front seal was changed from an oring to a urethane disk. Changing the pilot to a fully enclosed design is obviously to prevent crushed solenoids and wires sheared by rotating solenoids. We decided to match pilot housings to solenoids grouped by lift, eliminating the orifice plate, thus allowing us to keep the same parts count and eliminate a cross drilled and tapped hole. A bevel is added to the wire slot during the deburring process and heatshrink is applied to the wires to reduce the occurrence of sheared wires. The change to a urethane disk seal actually increases parts count due to the vented socket head capscrew and washer necessary to secure the seal, but we felt this change was worthwhile to eliminate the often troublesome dovetail oring groove. Our experience in other applications has shown that the urethane disk and knife edge valve seal design is very robust. It has the added benefits of a reduced poppet head diameter to increase flow, as well as reducing the diameter of the back of the poppet due to reduced sealing force. Valve bodies are now brass again, because it has better friction properties and less tendency to form burrs than aluminum. The latest version of the MQ2 (referred to as rev. 2) has roller burnished valve bodies. This provides a hard mirror-like surface in the valve body bore, which will reduce sticking and wear on orings. The solenoid plunger seal was switched to 90 durometer urethane, which appears to seal at higher pressures.

The vast majority of MQ2 parts are not compatible with the mQ, however, the assemblies are interchangeable. MQ2 valve body assemblies (valve body and poppet) can be used with mQ pilots and spacers without modification. An mQ pilot can be replaced with an MQ2 pilot, but the MQ2 pilot is shorter and will require an MQ2 spacer. The solenoid and associated parts (plunger, spring, urethane dot) are completely interchangeable. The poppet spring and all orings have remained the same in both designs.



How it Works

The valve is quite simple in its operation. When the solenoid is energized, it lifts the plunger venting the back of the valve body. Since the hole in the pilot has much more flow than the hole through the poppet, pressure behind the poppet drops quickly. The inlet pressure forces the poppet backwards, releasing a burst of air. The plunger closes, then the back of the valve body refills with pressure through the hole drilled through the poppet, closing the valve with the help of the spring.

The spring is necessary to get the poppet moving when the pilot closes. A light spring results in the valve not closing at all.

Note that the poppet is never actually balanced because the hole through the front of the valve is .296" and the poppet bore is .406". Preproduction units had issues with the front oring not sealing because they were too balanced. The back bore was reduced to the original .375" in the MQ2, because the urethane disk requires much less force to seal on the knife-edge.




The graph above is two pressure transducer readings from an early prototype of the valve. The top trace is the pressure at the valve. The bottom trace is pressure at the breech. The oscilloscope was triggered on the positive slope of the solenoid signal. Pressure is 100psi/V. Input pressure was 300 psi for a 300 fps velocity. From this graph, you can see that the lock time is approximately 4.5ms and that the entire cycle of the valve is over in around 10ms. This gives a theoretical fire rate of 100cps. The characteristics of the current valve are slightly different, but I lost all of the newer graphs in a hard drive crash.

Code: Select all

      Dwell      Velocity    Input  Pressure     Pressure Drop per shot,   68/45           Ps           Pe         E/Pd            shots per 68/45
3.5    190.6    225    1.755588    791    778.3    20693            2278    
3.5    248    250    2.557353    771.4    752.9    24050            1564    
3.5    262.6    275    3.096471    729.4    707    22270            1292    
3.5    269.2    290    3.649412    682.6    656.2    19858            1096    
                                        
4    250    250    2.571176    748    729.4    24308            1556    
4    262    275    2.972059    784.1    762.6    23096            1346    
4    265    290    4.451176    827.1    794.9    15777            899    
                                        
5    254.6    250    2.972059    718.7    697.2    21810            1346    
5    258    275    3.234706    685.5    662.1    20578            1237    
5    268    290    3.248529    640.6    617.1    22110            1231    
6    261    250    3.912059    652.3    624    17413    cp reg        1022    
6    253.6    250    2.972059    691.4    669.9    21639            1346    
6    264.4    275    3.649412    737.3    710.9    19156            1096    
6    267.6    290    5.805882    799.8    757.8    12334            689    
4    274.4    275    5.128529    791.9    754.8    14682    cp reg        780    
                                        
281    275    2.294706    748    714.8    34410    w/o oring        1743    
310    275    2.087353    696.2    666    46039    w/oring        1916    

This unorganized chart is from an efficiency test performed on a current design mQ-Valve. E/Pd is an energy conversion efficiency number. It doesn't have any particular units but is calculated as V^2 / pressure per shot. Velocities and pressure drops were calculated over 10 shots. Entries with cp reg were run with a regulator attached to the ASA as a volume chamber. Entries marked oring are a comparison test between no -014 oring on the valve body and with the oring.

The results clearly show that running an excessively long dwell and low pressure do not result in good efficiency. It also shows that having some extra volume attached to the ASA significantly improves velocity. The last set of results show that the -014 oring around the valve body provides a huge increase in velocity. In the case of the PBX Frame, the air leaking around the valve with no oring is enough to kick the trigger forward, resulting in massive trigger bounce.

Keep in mind, that shooting fast will lower the efficiency by a large factor. An early efficiency test we performed confirmed this.



Optimum Performance of MQ Valved Cockers, Regardless of Valve Type

When building an MQed cocker, the best performance is obtained by reducing reciprocating mass. The bolt/backblock combo should be as lightweight as possible. I'm not familiar with the various products in the marketplace, so I can't make any specific suggestions. An aluminum or titanium pump rod is an excellent way to reduce reciprocating mass. Fatigue strength is the key factor here. Titanium has a much higher fatigue strength than the aluminum used in commercially available pump rods. The aluminum is lighter, but tends to break. The best solution is a pump rod made of high strength aluminum alloy, such as 7075. I don't think these are available commercially. For example, the PBX Rocker uses a bolt and shuttle block made of delrin and a short 7075 pump rod for a reciprocating mass of approximately 25 g (not including the ram shaft).

According to our tests, the best performing type of ram is a 5/16" bore run at 80 psi. A close second (by about .5ms) is the standard 3/8" bore at 60 psi. Speed did not increase with pressures higher than 80/60 psi. The real advantage to the 5/16" bore is that it uses a little less air than the 3/8". ANS sells a 5/16" Clippard ram with the required 6-32 threads (an uncommon feature in the industrial world) on the shaft. You can get the 1" stroke, 5/16" bore, 5/16"-24 nose thread, with bumpstops from most pneumatic cylinder suppliers (ex. Clippard [online ordering] and Bimba). Unless you are making your own pump rod, you'll have to purchase a unit with an unthreaded shaft and thread it 6-32 yourself. Run QEVs on both ports of the ram and use hose barbs with the biggest hole you can find. SMC makes some very nice 10-32 barbs with a large bore, but they're a little difficult to get and easy to break.

Some users have reported that polishing the inside of the valve body to a mirror finish improves consistency and gets rid of first shot drop off. I would recommend using a slotted wooden dowel in a die grinder starting with 400 grit paper. Work your way up to 2000 grit, then use a piece of paper towel soaked in Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. MQ2 bodies have a better finish inside and little o-ring compression, so don't overdo it with the lower grit paper. This is unnecessary in the latest (rev. 2) version of the MQ2 valves, as the bore of the valve body already has a mirror finish.

Summary- Light backblock and bolt, titanium pump rod, ANS ram with QEVs



Why is it Called mQ? What Did Kerry Johnson Do?

mQ stands for Mike Quinn, the guy who came up with the idea. Mike has a masters degree in mechanical engineering from Stevens Institute of Technology and works full time for BD. My role in the project was making prototypes, designing and building test and measurement equipment, and general helping tweak the valve. Unfortunately, I ended up handling the shipping of orders in the first batch.

last update: 2/11/08

palmer lt valve for cockers?
anybody usin or used one...was kinda lookin at em for my sc sniper build...i don't use 12'ies much cuz i'm lazy but efficiency is efficiency...also how's the consistency

I got one and it works good. On par with the CCM valve and older brass stock valves (not the threaded ones). And by good -- I was testing if per a specific IVG-hammer spring position if one would sweetspot to a higher fps - and those three were about even. Valves with bigger input/outputs were not as good.

Soo... you could get the cheap stock valve (from 99 bodies?) if you wanted. If my tests were right.

How many of you have decided to forsake a smooth pump in order to increase efficiency?
I'm thinking of doing just that. I play allot of outlaw, and I usually end up loaning the majority of my equipment out to others, which leaves me with just a 45ciX300psi. I think the best shot count I get from my set up is roughly around 275 shot's. I'm not 100% sure about that though, because someone else is shooting it instead of me.
Would increasing the valve spring tension be enough, or should I lighten the hammer, and increase reg pressure also.
Not really sure where to start.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

I usually increase the efficiency by turning up the reg and increasing the stiffness of the IVG spring.

When I got my most recent S5, I was getting appx. 50 shots per 600 PSI. That's terrible. I turned the reg up, increased mainspring tension and I must have improved that by at least 60%.

It also seems to have decreased the "kick" noticeably. My assumption is that the valve stays open for a shorter interval of time, creating less of the "kick" feeling.

Eddy

I'll also add that the pump stroke still can remain butter smooth, and you'd be hard pressed to tell if it was a stiffer stroke or not.

When I had a series 5 I replaced the valve with a Palmer's LT to increase efficiency... but it sure did change the pump stroke when I was done... More of a smooth SNiper than a ridiculously smooth CCM....

Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddy
I usually increase the efficiency by turning up the reg and increasing the stiffness of the IVG spring.

That sounds like the only result would be a higher velocity.
And Mar, why/how does a valve of such similar design, with the only differnce that the LT is made of brass, offer improved efficiency ?

But it isn't a higher velocity, because the valve dwell changes. When the valve loses dwell, you lose propellant. Therefore, you must increase the spring pressure to compensate for lost dwell in the valve. Simply a means of using a short dwelled burst of high pressure air, versus a long dwelled burst of lower pressure air.

It helps.

Make the valve spring harder, and then sweetspot the reg, best way to do it. Don't look at what the gauge says, just let the gun dictate the pressure input. Too mnay times people get hung up on what pressure to run at, set the gun up right and the rest will fall into place.............

With CCM internals I've found that a red valve/green main and input pressure around 300 psi yields a very smooth stroke with great efficiency. It's not as light as the stock CCM stroke but it's very close IMHO.

Originally Posted by splattttttt
That sounds like the only result would be a higher velocity.
And Mar, why/how does a valve of such similar design, with the only differnce that the LT is made of brass, offer improved efficiency ?

The LT valve came with a stiffer spring...lol...

Well a heavy hammer is only required if you are using a light hammer spring/heavy valve spring and the sniper is having a difficult time reaching 280 fps without the IVG being turned in all the way.

Why waste the money? Basically the red/green srping combo is basically lowering the dwell significantly so that a lot less air is wasted. Honestly, I can't tell the difference between low pressure valves, bu there is a huge difference comparing low pressure to high pressure valves.
__________________

Balance your springs, set the IVG at 2 to 3 turns in. Sweetspot the reg then up the pressure a butthair more. Further adjust velocity with the IVG and make sure you have a TIGHT paint to barrel match. I get great efficiency on my Sniper. i can play all day on a single 68/3000 fill.

Most efficient CO2 valve?
In your opinion, which valve is the most efficient for CO2 use?
(not including nelson-based)

Palmer's LT valve?
AKA Tornado valve? (if so, which one, Autococker, Viking, or Bushy?)

Thanks!

The PPS valve is second to none. Same can be said about the AKA valve.

Id go PPS because it is cheaper and honestly I prefer it.

Cant go wrong either way.

For unregged PPS makes a HP valve now, which is great.

i am trying a Palmers LT valve today and will report back on how it compares to a stock valve with Madmann sear spring/CCM hammer spring. so far, it seems to be about 30-40 FPS lower at the same reg pressure (225) and IVG setting (flush). the valve stem is slightly longer than a WGP stem by a couple millimeters.

is it an hp lt valve or the lower pressure variety? I honestly never had any real luck with the non-hp pps valve

it is the lower pressure one. while it did change the farting to a nice tight pop, it was not as free flowing as the stock valve or as quiet as i hoped. i may try to run the Palmers stem with the stock valve body.

How do you define free flowing? From past experiences, would you be able to compare it to other well known valves? ie. Rat, CCM, Checkit, etc.

The Palmers LT valve did not produce as high or higher velocity as the stock 2000+ valve from my back to back testing running the using the same springs/reg pressure/barrel on a midblock marker. I even tried running it at different pressures to see if things improved (175, 200, 225, 250). i also tried re-installing it a couple times to eliminate that as a possibility.

The Check-It valve is pretty close to the stock valve running at the same settings (again, trying multiple pressures), i only saw about a 10 FPS increase in my testing. it looks like the stock valve, just the stem gets thin like the Palmers LT stem.

i do not believe the CCM can run at the lower pressures i like to run my markers at (200-250), so it is out. i have not run the RAT valve yet, not sure i want to run it since it looks like it has a short stem and different sealing face.

In terms of fun with high flow LP performance, I'll never give up my tornado valve. Hardly the best 75$ I've ever spent, but worth the investment for the AKA junkie I wish I was

I haven't ever installed one in my guns, but I have played with other cockers running the RAT valve. It ran well at 250psi IIRC

That's great info gospeed!
I never tested the valves for LP only for sound signatures. Figured I could slap a green maddman valve spring to up the dwell but I didn't have issues with brittle paint so never went with that option.
I do have a Tornado on my mech and that truly is an LP valve. I can shoot deep into the tank without drop offs.

Don't mean to butt in, well I really do, but there day's I'm finding that in terms of a smooth, easy pump stroke it has more to do with build than springing, or at least as much to do with build quality as springing. Point in case I've got my beloved 96-97 old sniper body that I recently upgraded with a CCM kit, a/t and thin 45 frame. Uses the same mainspring as my 6.25, but isn't anywhere nearly as easy to pump. It's like with nelsons and carter machine - I LOVE my ghost and old spirit, but they're NO-WHERE near a joy to pump as a good duck, box gun or mini-comp.

Iono, springs are still important. Again, balancing them is more important for any desired setup than simply light springs, but I digress. in surein's case, with that lp high flow tornado valve, assuming you're using a heavy hammer (I forget do you have a freeflow tungsten) and good bolt, you should be able to use the weakest maddman spring, if not clip a couple coils.

Why do I feel so dogmatic today?!

Dogmatic! HAHA! You know your ish so preach on brothah!
here are my setups..

Pump 1: Halved outkast with LT valve and spring, Freeflow heavy hammer, blue hammer spring, 14" bored UL or Boomstick. Super quiet but no idea on efficiency

Mech: EvoX with rex hammer kit but Tornado valve. I can shoot deep into the tank without drop offs. Love the Tornado valve but still not as quiet as the LT

Regarding your LT valve testing: turn up the pressure. Sweetspot for mine have always been between 250-300 PSI, it's not a super low pressure valve, but it is extremely quiet and efficient once tuned correctly. Honestly I like them better than any of the other valves on the market for a pump sniper.

I remember 8 or so years ago it was brought up on the Tinkers guild and a few people tried it out. The general thinking was its a useless novelty, not much different then the old "full auto blowback trick". This is not far off from how the AT85 operates.

A far more usefull mod is the old mid 90s "reversed cocker". This was briefly popular before electro came out, then pretty much forgotten.

Basically, add a real autotrigger, clip the sear, and swap the 3way hoses. This gives you a fully pneumatic trigger, and unlike the reflex, it actually would work all the time, and not really cost anything. If you have ever tried to fire a cocker with the hammer pin removed, this is how fast you could fire. Essentially, it would convert the cocker to work like the vector, which had a pneumatic trigger.

The reason why nobody has brought back this seemingly obvious idea is the PTP patent. While we know its not valid, they still seem capable to push there legal weight when they want too.

Okay - so - concerning the working seals on the Shocktech Marker:

1) Valve - use a replacement seal from an ANS valve.
2) Bomb - Aftermarket buna seem to be okay.
3) Ram - Stock or Sto replacements.
4) Reg - Stock replacements - unless the shrader goes out.

Is this shrader valve unique - or is there a replacement to be found in another industry (maybe a bike tire valve)?

TF